60 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE AN INNOVATIVE, ACCURATE AND I•PRODUCTIVE METHOD TO MEASURE FLAVONOIDS EFFICACY ON DRAINING PROPERTIES' THE "FRINGE PROJECTION" APPLIED TO BAGS UNDER EYE VOLUMES Eric PerrieP, J-E. Branka •, Ph.D., D. RivaP, J. C. Pittet 2, and P. Beau 2 1Coletica, 32, rue Saint Jean de Dieu, 69007 Lyon, France 2 Spincontrol, 238, rue Giraudeau, 37000 Tours, France Abstract Up to now, the efficacy of flavonoids and flavonoids derivatives were able to be assessed using in vitro techniques (for the demonstration of their anti-oxidant properties and their anti-elastasic properties), or in vivo technique Meanwhile, in the latest case, such in vivo studies were only used to assess the general quality of skin, without particular specific focus on the vasoconstriction properties of flavonoids, properties that are highly specific for this type of molecule. This work reported the evaluation of a flavonoid derivative for the volume reduction of bags under eyes. Until now, such type of properties was only assessed based on an ophthalmologic examination with a slit-lamp. However, this apparatus does not reach sufficient level of accuracy and does not permit the evaluation of curative treatment targeted on bags under eye volume reduction. We present here an innovative, accurate and reproductive way to measure bags under eye volume: the "fringe projection". The principle is based on analyzing the deformation of light rays incident on the face. Any product, which improves bags under eye volume, will therefore affect the extent of deformation of the fi'•nges. This change can be quantified so the effect on bags' volume of an active compound can be objectively assessed. The adaptation of this interferometric method, which was previously used, for the reproduction of stars' faces in wax museums, for the cosmetic field, allowed the development of acnve compounds showing particularly potent effects on the bags under eye volume. I l1 t ro(.I tlction The interferometry by fringe projection is a touch free optical technique, which allows direct and fast measurement of the topometry of the skin m vtvo. Spatial resolution (x, y, z) obtained with this technique reaches 5 gm tn vitro and 10 •tm tn VlVO without any contact. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the vasoactive properties of a stabilized flavonoid (1), FLAVAGRUM © PEG, by the fringe projection technique. The measured parameter was the bags under eye volume. l ethnical I)rincil)le Topornetric metrologics, based on the principle of optical triangulation with structured light, allows the 3D acquisition with up to one million images points in 250 ms. This allows, especially m wvo, acquisition without the disturbing of movements At the same time, the texture is acquired (fig. 3a). The lighting system, coupled to a video camera (see fig. 1) permits the projection of a sequence of fine lattice onto the object. The course of the light intersection lines (fig. 2a, 3a) is recorded by the video camera and read into and process by the image processing computer (grey-code projection). The resolution is optimized by the means of the phase-shift procedure in which lattices are used to produce a sinusoidal line pattern on slightly out- of-focus projection (see fig. 2b, 3b). The digitized measuring data are then convert in a contour map. The system calculated the volume, surface and height of the studied object (fig. 4). The resolution, m the 3 directions of the space (x, y, z), reaches 10 [tm tn v•vo (for a review, see 2). Method(flog5 Populatton: Product: KIrlellc$: ]k[easured parameters: 20 healthy volunteers (female) with slight to pronounced bags under eyes were included in this study. The studied product was a flavonoid stabilized by lipophilization (FLAVAGRUM © PEG, COLETIC& France). TO: initial time before treatment T + 3 hours after treatment T + 5 hours after treatment • Bags under eye volume

2001 ANNUAL SCIENTIFIC MEETING 61 Results and Discussion The results presented in Figure 2 show that the lipophilized flavonoid studied is able to significantly reduce the volume of bags under the eyes: 3 hours after application, the volume of the bags under the eyes had decreased on average by 0.21 nun, 5 hours after application, the volume of the bags under the eyes had decreased on average by 0.51 nun, The maximum reduction observed was 1.85 nun (5 hours after application of the formula containing 3 % of the lipophilized fiavonoid). Under the same experimental conditions, the placebo formula caused no significant reduction in volume of bags under the eyes 3 hours after its application. 5 hours after the application of the placebo formula, a significant reduction in volume of the bags under the eyes of 0.06 mm was recorded. This small decrease in volume could be attributed to a natural "deflation" of the bags during the day. 3 hours 5 hours 01 0.2 o3 04 o5 o6 - 0.21 "k Placebo Lipophilized flavonoid 3% ß 0.06 . - 0.51 Conclusion In conclusion, the lipophilized flavonoid is shown to have a statistically significant effect on the volume of bags under the eyes from the third hour after treatment. However, these results also show the relevance of the method used by COLETICA in the evaluation of the effects of this product. Only band projection could show its beneficial action on the volume of bags under the eyes The hpophilized fiavonoid developed is the only product at present for which the effectiveness on this parameter has been demonstrated and quantified in vivo. Bibliograph3 I. Gabor M In ,Plant Flavonoids m Biology and Medicine. Biochemical, Pharmacological, and Structure-Activity Relationships)) ¸ Alan R. Liss, Inc. pp. 471-480 (1986) 2. Lagarde J., Rouvrais C., Black D., Diridollou S, Gall Y. Skin Res. Technol. 7, 112-121 (2001) 3. Pittet J-C., Branka J-E., Servant J-J., Sechet B., Jacob S, Beau P. Skin relief: comparison of an interferometry technique by fringes projection (m wtro and m vtvo) and the image analysis of silicon replicas ISSI Congress, Washington (200 I) 4. Perrier E., Mariotte A., Boumendjel A., Rival D. fiavonoid esters and their use notably in cosmetics Patent (France: FR 98 06194), (United States of America' USA 6233296), (Germany, Japan, South Korea: pending)