j. Cosmet. Sci., 53, 59-80 (January/February 2002) Papers Presented at the 2001 Annual Scientific Meeting and Technology Showcase (Thursday's Program) December 6-7, 2001 New York Hilton New York, NY 59

60 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE AN INNOVATIVE, ACCURATE AND I•PRODUCTIVE METHOD TO MEASURE FLAVONOIDS EFFICACY ON DRAINING PROPERTIES' THE "FRINGE PROJECTION" APPLIED TO BAGS UNDER EYE VOLUMES Eric PerrieP, J-E. Branka •, Ph.D., D. RivaP, J. C. Pittet 2, and P. Beau 2 1Coletica, 32, rue Saint Jean de Dieu, 69007 Lyon, France 2 Spincontrol, 238, rue Giraudeau, 37000 Tours, France Abstract Up to now, the efficacy of flavonoids and flavonoids derivatives were able to be assessed using in vitro techniques (for the demonstration of their anti-oxidant properties and their anti-elastasic properties), or in vivo technique Meanwhile, in the latest case, such in vivo studies were only used to assess the general quality of skin, without particular specific focus on the vasoconstriction properties of flavonoids, properties that are highly specific for this type of molecule. This work reported the evaluation of a flavonoid derivative for the volume reduction of bags under eyes. Until now, such type of properties was only assessed based on an ophthalmologic examination with a slit-lamp. However, this apparatus does not reach sufficient level of accuracy and does not permit the evaluation of curative treatment targeted on bags under eye volume reduction. We present here an innovative, accurate and reproductive way to measure bags under eye volume: the "fringe projection". The principle is based on analyzing the deformation of light rays incident on the face. Any product, which improves bags under eye volume, will therefore affect the extent of deformation of the fi'•nges. This change can be quantified so the effect on bags' volume of an active compound can be objectively assessed. The adaptation of this interferometric method, which was previously used, for the reproduction of stars' faces in wax museums, for the cosmetic field, allowed the development of acnve compounds showing particularly potent effects on the bags under eye volume. I l1 t ro(.I tlction The interferometry by fringe projection is a touch free optical technique, which allows direct and fast measurement of the topometry of the skin m vtvo. Spatial resolution (x, y, z) obtained with this technique reaches 5 gm tn vitro and 10 •tm tn VlVO without any contact. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the vasoactive properties of a stabilized flavonoid (1), FLAVAGRUM © PEG, by the fringe projection technique. The measured parameter was the bags under eye volume. l ethnical I)rincil)le Topornetric metrologics, based on the principle of optical triangulation with structured light, allows the 3D acquisition with up to one million images points in 250 ms. This allows, especially m wvo, acquisition without the disturbing of movements At the same time, the texture is acquired (fig. 3a). The lighting system, coupled to a video camera (see fig. 1) permits the projection of a sequence of fine lattice onto the object. The course of the light intersection lines (fig. 2a, 3a) is recorded by the video camera and read into and process by the image processing computer (grey-code projection). The resolution is optimized by the means of the phase-shift procedure in which lattices are used to produce a sinusoidal line pattern on slightly out- of-focus projection (see fig. 2b, 3b). The digitized measuring data are then convert in a contour map. The system calculated the volume, surface and height of the studied object (fig. 4). The resolution, m the 3 directions of the space (x, y, z), reaches 10 [tm tn v•vo (for a review, see 2). Method(flog5 Populatton: Product: KIrlellc$: ]k[easured parameters: 20 healthy volunteers (female) with slight to pronounced bags under eyes were included in this study. The studied product was a flavonoid stabilized by lipophilization (FLAVAGRUM © PEG, COLETIC& France). TO: initial time before treatment T + 3 hours after treatment T + 5 hours after treatment • Bags under eye volume