EFFECT OF CELLULOSE POLYMERS ON DYE UPTAKE 115 that the desired wash-out of a semipermanent hair dye, after several washing cycles, should not be hindered by the polymer presence. CONCLUSION A systematic investigation has been made concerning the effects governing dye uptake and color loss from yak fiber with HC Blue 2, Basic Red 51, and HC Yellow 2 dyes in the presence of cationic and non-ionic polymers. It has been shown that the presence of cationic polymers in the dye bath improves the quality of the dyeing process and reduces dye fading during the first washing cycles. However, the desired wash-out for a semi- permanent hair dye, after several washing cycles, is not hindered by the presence of polymers. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS The authors thank the Spinner Consortium, financed by the Social European Fund, the Ministry of Work and of Social Policies, and the Region of Emilia Romagna, Italy. REFERENCES (1) C.R.Robbins, "Polymers and Polymer Chemistry in Hair Products," in Chemical and Physical Behavior of Human Hair, 4th ed. (Springer-Verlag, New York, 2002), pp. 345-385 and literature therein. (2) A. Pfau, P. Hassel, S. Vogt, R. Sander, and W. Schrepp, The interaction of cationic polymers with human hair, Macromol. Symp., 126, 241-252 (1997). (3) E. D. Goddard, J. A. Faucher, R. J. Scott, and M. E. Turney, Adsorption of polymer JR on keratinous surfaces-Part II,]. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 26, 539-550 (1975). (4) R. B. Hannan, E. D. Goddard, and J. A. Faucher, Desorption of a cationic polymer from human hair: Surfactant and salt effects, Textile Res.]., 57-58 (January 1978). (5) J. A. Faucher and E. D. Goddard, Influence of surfactants on the sorption of a cationic polymer by keratinous substrates,]. Colloid. Interface Sci., 55, 313-319 (1976). (6) T. V. Drovetskaya, R. L. Kreeger, J. L. Amos, C. B. Davis, and S. Zhou, Effects of low-level hydro- phobic substitution on conditioning properties of cationic cellulosic polymers in shampoo systems,]. Cosmet. Sci., 55 (Supplement), S195-S205. (7) A. Schlosser, Silicones used in permanent and semi-permanent hair dyes to reduce the fading and color change process of dyed hair occurred by wash-out or UV radiation,]. Cosmet. Sci., 55 (Supplement), Sl23-S13 l (2004). (8) I. D. Ratee and M. N. Breuer, "Kinetics of Dyeing," in The Physical Chemistry of Dye Adsorption, (Academic Press, London, 1974), pp. 48-49. (9) R. McGregor and R. H. Peters, Some observations on the relation between dyeing properties and fibre structure,JSDC, 82, 267-276 (1968). (10) J. S. Anderson, The chemistry of hair colorants, JSDC, 116, 193-196 (2000). (11) C. Zviak, "Tinture per Capelli: non ossidanti," in Scienza delta Cura dei Capelli (Emiliano Panconesi, Masson, Milan, 1987), pp. 249-255. (12) B. Ballarin, S. Galli, and M. Morigi, Study of dyeing properties of semipermanent dyestuffs for hair, Int.]. Cosmet. Sci., 29, 49-57 (2007). (13) S. K. Han, Y. K. Karnath, and H. D. Weigmann, Diffusion of semipermanent dyestuff in human hair, Proceedings of the 7th International Wool Textile Research Conference, Tokyo, 5, 269 (1985). (14) J. T. Guthrie, A. Kazlauciunas, L. Rongong, and S. Rush, The characterization of treated and dyed hair, Dyes and Pigments, 29, 23-44 (1995). (15) P. Maillan, UV protection of artificially coloured hair using a leave-on formulation, Int.]. Cosmet. Sci., 24, 117-122 (2002).

]. Cosmet. Sci. 1 59, 117-125 (March/April 2008) A dual mechanism of 4-hydroxy-5-methyl-3[2H]-furanone inhibiting cellular melanogenesis HYO JUNG KIM, SANG MI AN and YONG CHOOL BOO, Department of Molecular Medicine (H.].K., S.M.A., Y.C.B.) and Cell and Matrix Research Institute (Y.C.B.), Kyungpook National University School of Medicine, 101 Dongindong-2-ga, Junggu, Daegu, 700-422, Republic of Korea. Accepted for publication November 28, 2007. Synopsis In previous studies, 4-hydroxy-5-methyl-3[2H}-furanone (HMF) was shown to have potent antioxidative and antimelanogenic effects, suggesting its potential use as a depigmenting agent. The present study investigated its mechanism of action on murine melanoma B16F10 cells stimulated by theophylline, an activator of the cyclic AMP/protein kinase A signaling leading to tyrosinase gene expression. When the cells were stimulated with theophylline, there were dose-dependent increases in cellular tyrosinase protein content and melanin formation, as expected. HMF inhibited the theophylline-stimulated melanin formation as effectively as arbutin, one of the most widely used depigmenting agents in cosmetics. HMF appeared to reduce tyrosinase mRNA and protein content in the cells stimulated by theophylline, indicating it inhibited tyrosinase gene expression. HMF also effectively inhibited tyrosinase-catalyzed melanin formation from dihydroxyphenylalanine in the cells as well as in vitro. Therefore, the antimelanogenic effects of HMF were best explained by a dual mechanism inhibiting tyrosinase gene expression and the enzyme activity of pre-existing tyrosinase. INTRODUCTION In a classical model of melanogenesis, a-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (a-MSH) stimulates adenylate cyclase, producing cyclic AMP through the G protein-coupled melanocortin 1 receptor (1). Cyclic AMP activates protein kinase A and CREB (cAMP responsive element binding protein) transcription factor, leading to an increase of MITF (microphthalmia associated transcription factor) (2). Binding of MITF to the gene promoters of melanogenic enzymes induces their gene expression (3). Newly synthesized tyrosinase protein undergoes maturation and activation by multiple mechanisms includ- ing copper binding, glycosylation, and phosphorylation (4-6). The active tyrosinase then Hyo Jung Kim and Sang Mi An contributed equally to this work. Address all correspondence to Yong Chool Boo. 117