WHY WOMEN USE MAKEUP 135 Table V Identification of Two Significance Classes of Volunteers Class A (n = 21) Class B (n = 49) Variables Mean ±SD Mean ±SD Significance STAI (T-anxiety state) 46.6B 8.1 35.6A 5.5 S (p 0.01) SEI (General self score) 12.4A 3.9 20.6B 2.4 S (p 0.01) RAS score -5.2A 16.2 26.lB 17.8 S (p 0.01) EPI Form B (Extroversion-introversion) 11.9A 2.8 15.3B 3.6 S (p 0.01) EPI Form B (Neuroticism-stability) 13.5B 3.4 7.6A 3.6 S (p 0.01) When there is a significant difference between classes for each psychometric variable, we indicate by letters (A, B) the class to which it belongs. If the classes have the same letter, they are comparable if not, they are significantly different. psychological profile relatively close to that of subclass B3, but with a higher level of assertiveness and emotional stability. The same analysis for class A did not reveal sustainable subclasses. Indeed, the statistical subdivisions revealed a main subclass that regroups 90% of the subjects of class A, with a response profile similar to the general class A profile. DISCUSSION The first result of our study has clearly shown that the women of our panel expressed through a self-assessment questionnaire two opposite functions in facial makeup. The first function is rather intended to decrease a negative self-perception, which we labeled as "camouflage." The second is more oriented to the desire to please, which we labeled as "seduction," with some variations. For one subclass in which the "natural" face is perceived as more valuable than the made-up face, makeup is rather used in "playful" or "enjoyable" contexts and, hence, variability in its features is allowed. For the other subclass, the made-up face is considered as more valuable than the natural face and tends to supports the self-image, thus restricting variability in the makeup structure. In order to go further in the understanding of these functional differences, we tried to relate these Table VI Identification of Three Subclasses of Volunteers Variables STAI (T-anxiety state) SEI (General self score) RAS score EPI Form B (Extroversion-introversion) EPI Form B (Neuroticism-stability) Subclass Bl (n = 16) Mean ±SD 38.3A 3.9 19.4A 1.9 15.3A 13.3 11.7A 3.0 8.lB 3.2 Class B (n = 49) Subclass B2 (n = 23) Mean ±SD 35.lA 5.5 20.0A 2.1 26.7B 16.5 17.0B 2.3 9.lB 2.9 Subclass B3 (n = 10) Mean ±SD 32.2A 6.3 23.6B 1.0 42.0c 15.4 17.0B 2.3 3.lA 1.7 Significance NS S (p 0.01) S (p 0.01) S (p 0.01) S (p 0.01) When there is a significant difference between subclasses for each psychometric variable, we indicate by letters (A, B, C) the subclass to which it belongs. If the subclasses have the same letter, they are comparable if not, they are significantly different.

136 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE different makeup functions to possible underlying psychological features (i.e., self- esteem, social desirability, anxiety, and fear of negative self-evaluation). Our first result clearly showed that aging was not a discriminating factor in our different makeup functions, and had no influence on the volunteer's psychological characteristics. This interesting result is consistent with those of McCrae and Costa (21), who tested the personalities of individuals between 19 and 80 years for over twelve years and specifically measured their levels of neuroticism, extroversion, openness to experience, agreeableness, and conscientiousness. The authors concluded that these five personality traits remained relatively stable with age. However, they conceded that their studies were not definitive and that variability across the individual personality was still possible. Concerning the psychological profiles of our subjects, we observed that women using makeup as a camouflage tool (class A) are rather concerned with anxiety and neuroticism, while those using makeup as a "seduction" tool (class B) are rather characterized by higher self-esteem, extroversion, and assertiveness. According to the literature (22,23), female subjects of class A can be classified as having a negative self-perception, worrying more often, and dwelling on frustrations and disappointments. Moreover, subjects with higher neuroticism values were shown to be more distressed on average in comparison with individuals with lower values, and are more susceptible to stressful events (24). On the other hand, female subjects of class B tend to perceive themselves as better than average in communal traits, with more experience of positive emotions, defined as sociability or a tendency to be active and social (25). From these results, it is clear that one's self-image plays a key role in the development of personality. Women with a subjective negative feeling about their image develop defensive mechanisms to cope with low self-esteem and may need to "normalize" or manipulate a perceived impaired ap- pearance. CONCLUSIONS The subjective approach from the self-assessment questionnaire revealed two clearly distinctive classes of subjects according to their functional use of makeup� i.e., "cam- ouflage" vs "seduction." These two classes (and further subclasses) have been associated with specific emotional and psychological profiles. It is clear that our next step will be to further study the impact of related physical parameters such as skin radiance, homo- geneity of skin color, and facial symmetry (26), as well as facial expression patterns, along with the makeup process. Finally, we can conclude that beyond the simple application of colorful products to the face, makeup appears as a holistic technique that modifies not only one's appearance, but also helps one to cope with self-image, emotions, and mood. Therefore, makeup appli- cation can be considered as a daily routine to decrease negative affects and/or increase positive affects related to self-image and one's relation to the social environment. Our results provide experimental support to the link between cosmetics and welfare, and further promote initiatives such as the "Look Good .. . Feel Better" program that was developed in 1989 by the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association (CTFA). Such a program consists in a free, non-medical, brand-neutral, national public service program supported by corporate donors to help women offset appearance-related changes from cancer treatment. This pioneer study, revealing a psycho-behavioral background for differences in the use of makeup, urges further investigation in order to determine underlying determinants.