158 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE Survey Research on Enlarged Pores as a Function of Age Koji Mizukoshi*, Midori Oyobikawa*, Yuko Ito*, Kazunori Kobayashi**, Hitoshi Imamura**, Katsuo Matsumoto• *POLA Skin Research and Technology Department, 560, Kashio-cho, Totsuka-ku, Yokohama 244-0812, Japan **POLA Skincare Products R&D Department, 27-1, Takashimadai, Kanagawa-ku, Yokohama 221-0833, Japan We conducted a research survey regarding the occurrence of prominent pores with respect to age by measuring pores on the faces of 248 Japanese women. Enlarged, prominent facial pores of women in their 20's and 30's showed they were full of follicular casts. A large proportion of these follicular casts were fi1 led with protein. However, as the women aged, their pores were gradually replaced by pores that were not full of follicular casts. The size of facial pores showed a two-staged pattern of increase with age. Furthennore, the relationship between the size of the facial pore and the amount of sebum secretion gradually decreased with age. We speculate that facial pores become highly prominent when women are young because they become filled with follicular casts, and that these pores may remain visible, even when not filled with follicular casts, as women age. Different types of care are needed for different types of facial pores that occur with age. Novel Multi-Functional Hybrid Polymer Ayako Koyanagi, Nobuyuki Goto, Sueko Daikai, Sakiko Uchida, Natsuko Hayashi, Masato Yoshioka SEIWA KASEI Co., Ltd., 1-2-14, Nunoichi-cho, Higashiosaka 579-8004, Japan Although W/O emulsions are widely used especially for rich cream formulas, there are some oils such as silicones difficult to incorporate into the system by conventional emulsifiers. Here, we have applied a novel hybrid polymer bearing hydrolyzed silk protein as the hydrophilic group, and both alkyl and silicone moieties as the hydrophobic group for the W/O emulsification of silicone oil. The hybrid polymer gave W/O emulsion with silicone oils or polar-oils relatively easily with long-term stability. W/O sunscreen lotion prepared with the hybrid polymer exhibited supple moisturizing effect while suppressing tackiness (stickiness) and excess oily feeling by sensory evaluation. The skin moisturizing effect was confinned by in vitro and in vivo test. For Our Continued Youth and Health: Science and Technology for Enhanced Skin Penetration of Cosmetic Ingredients to Obtain the High Effects of Cosmetics Kenji Sugibayashi Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Life Science Research Center, Josai University, 1-1 Keyakidai, Sakado 350-0295, Japan Cosmetics and their primary ingredients can be categorized according to their purposes. Some of them must be penetrated into the stratum comeum or be absorbed into the viable epidennis and dermis, and the others may just cover the skin surface to obtain their cosmetic effects. In addition, some cosmetics must be concentrated into the hair or hair follicles, not into the general skin surface. Thus, we must pay attention to the adequate properties of skin penetration/permeation of cosmetic ingredients for their purpose as cosmetics. I review skin penetration and permeation properties of cosmetic ingredients, experimental and evaluation methods of the skin permeation of materials, and regulation and enhancement methods for the skin penetration, distribution and permeation of cosmetic ingredients in a question and answer system.

]. Cosmet. Sci., 59, 159-161 (March/April 2008) Abstracts International Journal of Cosmetic Science Vol. 29, No 6, 2007* In vitro assessment of water resistance of sun care products: a reproducible and optimized in vitro test method M. Pissavini*, V. Alard_, U. Heinrich_, K. Jenni§, V. Perier-, V. Tournier**, D. Lutz__, M. Meloni__, D. Kockott§§, L. Ferrero*, B. Gonzalez_, L. Zastrow* and H. Tronnier_ *Coty-Lancaster, International Research & Development Center, 2 rue de la Lujemetta, 98000 Monaco, Monaco, _L VMH Recherche, Branche Parfums et Cosme'tique, 185, Avenue de Verdun, 45804 St Jean de Baye, France, _Dermatronier, Institut ft( r Experimentelle Dermatologie, Universita .. t Witten/Herdecke, 58455 Witten, §Degussa GmbH, Business Line Goldschmidt Personal Care, 45127 Essen, Germany, -Pierre Fabre Derrno-Cosme'tique Centre de Recherche & De'veloppement, Alle'e Camille Soula, Vigoulet, **Dipta, 505 rue Pierre Berthier, 13855 Aix--en- Provence cedex 3, _Helioscience, 36 rue Borde, 13008 Marseille, France, _ VitroScreen, 17 Piazza Giulio Cesare, 20145 Milan, Italy and §§UV-Technik, 27 Vogelsbergstrabe, D-63456 Hanau-Steinheim, Germany M. Pissavini, Coty-Lancaster, International Research & Development Center, 2 rue de la Lujernetta, 98000 Monaco, Monaco. Tel.: +00 377 92 05 47 05 fax: +oo 377 92 05 47 47 e-mail: marc_pissavini@cotyinc.com The aim of the study was to develop a simple reproducible and reliable in vitro water resistance (WR) method to assess the sun care products. This paper is the result of a scientific collaboration between seven different international industrial laboratories and testing institutes. The same group has already achieved an in vitro protocol for the sun protection factor (SPF) determination [ 1]. The in vitro WR of sunscreens was tested by applying the same principle as in vivo, which determines the percentage of retention of sunscreen products by assessing the SPF before and after water immersion. Special care was taken to study the parameters influencing the WR and the possibility to follow the kinetics of sunscreen retention during water immersion. The influence of different water qualities has been tested, and osmosed water (1-3 IS cm-I) was chosen for the main ring study. Measurement was carried out after 5, 20 and 40 min of immersion. Histograms of selected products demonstrate the percentage of WR at all measuring times and centres, and the regression coefficient to the in vivo determination was shown and statistical calculations clearly demonstrate the reproducibility of the results between the different evaluation centres. The presented method is a practical, convenient and relevant tool for WR screening of sun care and skin care products. It even has the potential to be the starting point for the replacement of the in vivo method in future. Evaluation of black tea gel and its protection potential against UV M. Turkoglu* and N. Cigirgil_ *Faculty of Pharmacy, Pharmaceutical Technology Department, Marmara University, 34668 Haydarpasa, Istanbul and _KOPAS Cosmetics, Inc., Istanbul, Turkey Murat Turkoglu, Faculty of Pharmacy, Pharmaceutical Technology Department, Marmara University, 34668 Haydarpasa, Istanbul, Turkey. Tel.: (90) (216) 418 5029 fax: (90) (216) 345 2952 e-mail: turkoglu@marmaraedu.tr In this study, aqueous and alcoholic extracts of black tea were obtained. The black tea extracts were tested in vitro for their ultraviolet (UV) absorption profile. It was found that both extracts showed UV absorption and followed the same path based on the wavelength. Aqueous extract showed a stronger absorptivity per weight basis than the alcoholic extract of black tea. A peak was obtained between 250 and 300 nm. After 300 nm, UV absorption decreased fast towards 400 nm with a low absorptivity. The black tea aqueous extract was formulated as a gel with the help of a * These abstracts appear as they were originally published. They have not been edited by the journal of Cosmetic Science. 159