182 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE HAIR PROBLEMS, PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS AND GROOMING PRACTICES BASED ON ETHNICITY Harold Bryant, Ph.D., Crystal Porter, Ph.D., Stephanie Diridollou, Ph.D. and Grace Yang The L'Oreal Institute for Ethnic Hair & Skin Research Chicago, IL Backgrowid Differences in product usage and attitudes toward hair care products are well docwnented. For inst.ance, African American women tend to spend a greater percentage of their income on more hair care items than their Caucasian counterparts. However, the frequency of shampooing is much less and the use of straightening products is more prevalent. These are a few reasons why it is important to better llllderstand ethnic segmentation in the hair care market. Are the differences in attitudes and product usage based on consumer perception or inherent differences in the hair? To answer that question it is essential to link practices and perceptions to scientific data. Methods To determine consumer perceptions of hair problems, a pilot study was conducted with 3 50 female participants from various ethnic backgrowids who were asked to list all of their hair problems. The list was compiled and used for a national internet-based survey that targeted four ethnic groups with over 1200 respondents. Among other things, they were asked to indicate all of their hair problems as well as their ntmber one hair problem. Our current sample pool consists of hair collected in Jamaica, US, Ghana, and Kenya. Geometrical and mechanical parameters were measured using a miniature tensile tester and la� scan micrometer. Over 1500 fibers from 300 subjects were studied to determine diameter, ellipticity, number of twists, and mechanical profile. Prior to testing all samples were screened by amino acid analysis to determine overall quality. Results The survey responses were grouped into four categories Caucasian, Mexican, African American. and Chinese. Each category had a minimum of 300 responses and an age distribution ranging from 18 -80 years old that was similar to the national census. The average number of hair problems reported was higher for African American and Mexican as compared to Caucasian and Chinese. Logistic regression analysis indicates that while many of the problems are common, certain i:roblems were specific to each category (Table I). Table 1 Category Specific Hair Problems African American Breakage Dry scalp Itchy scalp � Oily scalp Caucasian Gray Too fine/thin Mexican Too frizzy To adequately address the perceived problems one must ascertain if they are well-defined (hair breakage vs. fallout). scientifically routed, and can be objectively measured. Well-defined and measurable problems may be addressed with product offerings while others may be addressed with education. The use of consumer research. scientific testing and literature reviews can determine which approach to problem resolution is appropriate. For instance, hair breakage was a top concern for the African American respondents to the survey. This is consistent with basic knowledge that already exists indicating the relative fragility of hair from people of African descent compared with other ethnicities (1-3). Recent studies on hair from people of African descent in our lab suggest that there are also differences based on the geographical area from which the hair is collected.

Ill ,. s •' I"' uo • 121 c:A 2007 ANNUAL SCIENTIFIC MEETING Fipre 1 a & b Number of Twist and Waves by Edmidty "" 2• I 1' � ,. I .� . .. - ;. u. l!lllnlc:lty Bhnlc:lty Flgure 2 Break Streu by Ethnicity CA AA ■hnlc:lty - 183 Figires 1 a & b show that there are statistically significantdifferences (p 0.05) for the number of twist and waves based on ethnicity. Figure 2 illustrates that the break stress is equivalmt for African American and Jamaican hair hlt different from Caucasian and Ghanaian hair. The physical characteristics that may play a role in hair fragility md thus the perception of 1:reakage include twists, kinks, cracks and other local fiber asymmetries often f01md in hair fibers from people of African descent The nwnber of waves and twists not only differ when compared as a group vs. Caucasian hair, but also vary within the group. In fact, the hair from Ghana, which had the hieJiest prevalence of twists and waves, was determined to be of the lowest mechanical integrity. Conclusion Based on a survey of more then 1200 women, differences in the perceived hair problems appear to be related to ethnic background. There were more specific number one problems perceiwd by African American \\'Omen responding compared to the other groups. There may be a conelation between the problems and the use oc misuse of chemical treatmmts hlt our data suggest that inherent differences must also be considered. Mechanical and geometrical tests indicate that the hair from people of African descent is more fragile and that fragility may be related to inherent physical differences. References 1 Karnath, YK, Homby, S, Weigmann, IID, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem, 35, 21-43, (1984) 2 Hardy, D, J. Phys. Anthrop., l9, 7-17, (1973) 3 Robbins, CR, Chemical and Physical Behavior of Human Hair, New York: Sprimger-Velag, 1988