WHY WOMEN USE MAKEUP 129 EVALUATION OF PERSONAL SUBJECTIVE EXPERIENCE WITH MAKEUP A self-assessment questionnaire was built during a qualitative survey from the interviews with women about their relationship with makeup. In our study, makeup is the appli- cation of facial cosmetics, including foundations, but also eye shadow, lipstick etc . .. The choice of products and mode of application were free for each subject. The instruc- tion given to the subjects was to apply makeup as they usually did, in order to analyze the most stable makeup patterns for each subject, and therefore the more representative. Three d1fferent age groups of women, all makeup products users, were recruited for this study and interviewed (the first group: 18-30 yr, n = 10 the second group: 30--40 yr, n == 10 and the third group 40 yr, n = 10). More than 560 sentences were first generated and classified into six different categories: (i) assertiveness level, (ii) protection, idealized naturalness, (iii) women multi-facets, (iv) aesthetic valuation, (v) seduction, (vi) makeup for oneself, and (vii) without makeup and habits. The number of sentences was then red.uced to 325 according to their independence, exhaustiveness, and pertinence. In a second step, a questionnaire was used during a consumer study done with 5 7 women 24- to 58-years-old, in order to select more comprehensive, independent, and relevant sentences. The definitive form of the questionnaire was set up, with the remaining 140 sentences proposed with a five-point Likert response scale ranging from O to 4 (O meaning strongly disagreeing and 4 strongly agreeing). PSYCHOMETRIC ANALYSES Psychological characterization of the subjects was done using four well-established and validated psychometric self-questionnaires: The State-Trait Anxiety Inventory (STAI-T) (16) consists of 20 items designed to assess trait anxiety and instructs subjects to report how they "generally" feel by rating themselves on a four-point frequency scale ranging from 1 (almost never) to 4 (almost always). The Coopersmith Self-Esteem Inventory (SEI: adult version) (17) is designed to measure and evaluate one's self-opinion regarding social, academic, family, and personal areas of experience. The inventory contains a total of 58 items answered "like me" or "unlike me." Scoring yields separate scores for the four subscales: general self (26 items), social self-peers (eight items), academic (eight items), and home (8 items). The scale allows the calculation of a global self-esteem score that can be used as an indicator of self-esteem and valuation of the self. The Rathus Assertiveness Schedule (RAS) (18) is used to measure assertiveness level. The scale includes 30 items that are scored on a six-point Likert-type scale, ranging from -3 (least like me) to + 3 (most like me). The Eysenck Personality Inventory (BPI, B form) (19) was designed to measure two pervasive, independent dimensions of personality, neuroticism-stability (24-items) and extroversion-introversion (24 items). The "extroversion" dimension rep- resents the tendency to be positively and actively engaged with one's environment (interpersonal interaction and sociability), while the neuroticism dimension characterizes high levels of negative affect such as depression and anxiety. The scale allows the calculation of an "extroversion score" (E) and a "neuroticism score" (N). STATISTICS Sentences from the makeup questionnaire were compared by the chi-square statistical method. The research into the psychological profiles of the volunteers was carried out by

130 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE using principal component analysis (PCA) and analysis of variance (ANOVA). Statistical significance was set to a maximum risk, a = 0.05. RESULTS CLASSIFICATION OF SUBJECTS FROM SELF-ASSESSMENT QUESTIONNAIRES In our study, data from Liken scales have been reduced to a nominal level by combining all responses into two categories of "agree" and "disagree." The significant percentage of agreement for specific sentences is described in Table I. The results show two large and distinctive groups of volunteers. The first (class A) regroups 21 female subjects (mean age 47 years ± 12), while the other (class B) is composed of 49 female subjects (mean age 43 years ± 10). The responses of the female subjects in class A refer globally to negative self-assessment or withdrawal from others (Table I). For example, these subjects typically fully agree with propositions such as: "Without makeup, I don't like myself' (62%) or "I always make myself up when I am in contact with people" (95%). On the other hand, the responses of class B subjects refer to a positive self-assessment or approach to others (Table I). For example, these subjects typically fully agree with such propositions as: "I make myself up in a more intensive way in the evening" (92%) or "When I'm made-up, I feel sensual" (76%). Overall, the pattern of responses of class A subjects regarding makeup use can be considered as a "camouflage" profile (i.e., aiming Table I Analysis of the Makeup Questionnaire (n = 70) Sentences When I'm made-up, I feel glamourous With makeup, I want to smile I always make myself up when I am in contact with people When I'm made-up, I feel natural When I'm made-up naturally, I feel myself I'm not afraid to change my makeup process to remain faithful to myself I make myself up in a more intensive way in the evening A woman who does not make herself up, it is a pity In the evening, I make myself up to allure Without makeup, I'm insipid A woman who does not make herself up is a woman who overrates intellectual dimension to the detriment of appearance I use makeup to control the image of myself When I'm made-up, I want to allure I don't like my face without makeup Without makeup, I don't like myself When I'm made-up, I feel sensual Percentage of agreement for specific sentences Class A Class B (n = 21) (n = 49) 25A 63B 14A 47B 95B 61A 43A 33A 81 A 86A 71B 20A 57A 92B 76B 47A 48A 67A 76A 55A 24A 10A 48A 59A 3 8A 69B 76B 47A 62B 33A 43A 76B Significance S (p 0.01) S (p = 0.02) S (p 0.01) NS NS S (p 0.01) S (p 0.01) S (p = 0.05) NS NS NS NS S (p = 0.0 3 ) S (p = 0.05) S (p = 0.04) S (p = 0.02) When there is a significant difference between classes, we indicate by letters (A, B) the class to which it belongs. If the classes have the same letter, they are comparable if not, they are significantly different.