195 IN VIVO ELONGATION OF TOPICALLY APPLIED FATTY ACIDS
formulations was incorporated into ceramides, as measured by the release of sphingosine
via hydrolysis of ceramides The concept of d31-PA integration into ceramides via the de novo
pathway for ceramide and sphingosine synthesis was introduced by the authors at the AAD
conference.25
0
C18:0 C20:0
Deutered fatty acids detected in skin
Deutered fatty acids detected in skin
d31PA concentration
C22:0 C24:0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
90
100
A
B
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
90
100
2% 0.75% 0.25% 0.05%
C18:0 C20:0 C22:0 C24:0
0
Figure 3. Percentage of participants demonstrating conversion of different levels of d31-PA (C16:0) into
elongated FFAs following application of a body wash formulation twice daily for four weeks on the arm (A)
and leg (B). Detectable levels of elongated FFAs (C20:0 to C24:0) were found in tape strip samples for all body
wash d31-PA concentrations.
d31-PA FFA, free fatty acid.
Participants
demonstrating
conversion
of
the
d31PA
concentration
applied
(%)
Participants
demonstrating
conversion
of
the
d31PAconcentration
applied
(%)
0 50000 100000 150000 200000 250000
ParticipantParticipant
3
4
Participant
5
Participant
6
Participant
7
Participant
9
ParticipantParticipant
10
13
Hydrolyzed
Not
hydrolyzed
A
0 20000 40000 60000 80000 100000 120000
Participant
3
Participant
4
Participant
5
Participant
6
Participant
7
Participant
9
Participant
10
Participant
13
Hydrolyzed
Not
hydrolyzed
B
0 50000 100000 150000 200000
C
0.05%
0.25%
0.75%
2%
Hydrolyzed
Not
hydrolyzed
d31PAconcentration
Figure
4.
Formation
of
d29
sphingosine
after
application
of
leave-on
lotion
(A)syndet
,
bar
(B)
and
body
wash
formulations
(C)Acid
.
hydrolysis
of
the
ceramides
was
performed
using
a
modification
of
the
Naoi,
Lee
and
Roseman
method.
(A)
Bar
charts
show
d29
sphingosine
signal
intensity
to
be
greater
after
acid
hydrolysis
following
leave-on
lotion
application.
(B)
Bar
charts
show
d29
sphingosine
signal
intensity
to
be
greater
after
acid
hydrolysis
following
syndet
bar
application.
(C)
Bar
charts
show
the
aggregate
d29
sphingosine
signal
intensity
to
be
greater
after
acid
hydrolysis
following
application
of
all
body
wash
formulations.
cps,
counts
per
second.
196 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
d29 sphingosine signal intensity )(cps
d29 sphingosine signal intensity )(cps
d29 sphingosine signal intensity )(cps
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