259 CRITICAL FACTORS TO OBTAIN STABLE HIP GEL-IN-OIL EMULSIONS
Conductivity measurement. Conductivity measurements were carried out at room temperature
at D1, D7, M1, and M3 using a SevenMulti™ dual pH/conductivity meter (Mettler Toledo
GmbH, Greifensee, Switzerland).
Stability monitoring. The appearance of the formulations was checked after storage at D1,
D7, M1, and M3 in different temperature conditions: room temperature at 45°C using a
BD 400 incubator (Binder GmbH, Tuttlingen, Germany) in −5°C to 40°C freeze–thaw
cycles using an MIR-154 Cooled Incubator (SANYO Electric Co., Ltd., Osaka, Japan), at
−18°C in a BCD-232ESN refrigerator/freezer (Electrolux, Senlis, France).
RHEOLOGY EXPERIMENTS
Experiments were conducted at around 20°C, D7 after manufacturing, using a rotational
controlled stress/strain Discovery Hybrid Rheometer DHR-2® (Waters—TA Instruments,
New Castle, DE, USA). In accordance with the thin particle size of the trials, an anodized
aluminum cone with a diameter of 40 mm, and forming an angle of with the plate, was
selected for all tests.
Oscillatory frequency sweeps from 0.1 to 100 rad/s were carried out with an anti-evaporation
cap within the linear viscoelastic domain. Viscoelasticity was then analyzed to evaluate the
level of structuration of the gel-in-oil and its resistance or any change occurring in the
structure during the experiment (frequency expressed in Hz in the Figures according to
international units). Evolution of storage modulus (G’) and calculation of mean G’/G” (i.e.,
loss modulus) ratio were followed to easily compare the formulations. The higher the value
of mean G’ and relative G’/G” ratio, the greater the elasticity and the stronger the structure
of the formulation.
The samples were also subjected to a shear rate ramp ranging from 0 to 1,200 s−1 for 120
seconds (up and down ramp steady state flow protocol) to determine the global flow profile
and yield stress. Curve analysis was performed using the Herschel–Bulkley mathematical
model to extract yield stress and rate index. Rate index, which varies from values close
to zero for a strong shear-thinning profile to one for Newtonian behavior, was used as
an additional indicator to supplement the curves. The purpose of this experiment was
to subject the formulations to greater stress that can be representative of real stressing
situations such as pouring, stirring, mixing, pumping,22,23,24 etc.
IMPACT OF MANUFACTURING PROCEDURE: VARIATIONS AND RESULTS
VARIATIONS ON MANUFACTURING PROCEDURE
Some parts of the manufacturing process remained fixed for all the trials, according to
conclusions of previous work.17 The gel phase was prepared by dispersing the rheology
modifier (a) in water using a serrated disc stirrer between 500 and 1,000 rpm (IKA
Eurostar 60 digital stirrer, IKA® Works, Guangzhou, China). The antifreeze agent (b) and
preservative (c) were added, and stirring continued until a smooth gel texture was obtained.
The oily phase was prepared by addition of the emulsifier (d) to the oil and manual stirring
for a few seconds with a spatula. Then one phase was introduced into the other, added in
one shot.
260 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
For practical considerations, due to the high volume of the gel phase, gel-in-oil emulsions
were made by an indirect mode (i.e., adding oily phase to gel phase). The direct
emulsification mode had not been attempted in previous studies. Previous work also
demonstrated that high shear was not required for emulsification, and mixing using a
planetary agitation device, such as an anchor or scraper, to gradually wrap the gel with
the oil was recommended.17 This work therefore aimed to investigate the influence of
the emulsification mode (i.e., direct or indirect) and to confirm the most suitable mixing
procedure on the selected formulation base.
Direct emulsification mode. Addition of gel phase to oily phase.
Indirect emulsification mode. Addition of oily phase to gel phase.
Emulsification mixing procedure. Three devices, involving low to high shear, were tested.
Stirring with an anchor at 75 rpm for 1 minute, followed by 9 minutes at 300 rpm (IKA
Eurostar 60 digital stirrer, IKA® Works, Guangzhou, China).
Mixing with a serrated disc stirrer between 500 and 1,000 rpm for 10 minutes (IKA
Eurostar 60 digital stirrer, IKA® Works, Guangzhou, China).
Homogenization with a rotor/stator turbine using a Silverson® L4RT high-shear mixer
at 4,000 rpm for 4 minutes (Silverson, East Longmeadow, MA, USA).
RESULTS
All the formulations were stable under the various temperature conditions at 3 months.
However, the high conductivity of the formulations obtained with serrated disc mixing and
rotor/stator homogenization indicated that defective cream gels with continuous aqueous
phase were obtained in these conditions instead of gel-in-oil emulsions. The result was
the same with indirect and direct emulsification mode (Table II). As anticipated, gel-in-
oil emulsion was characterized with a conductivity value close to zero.13,14 This outcome
Table II
Effect of Variations of the Manufacturing Procedure on a Fixed Formula Containing: Water 85.40%,
Rheology Modifier 0.80%, Emulsifier 2.00%, Oil 8.00%, Internal Gel Phase 90% (W/W %)
Emulsification mode Indirect Indirect Indirect Direct Direct Direct
Agitation Anchor Serrated disc Rotor/stator Anchor Serrated disc Rotor/stator
Conductivity D1/M1
(μm/cm)
0 ≅453 ≅441 0 ≅440 ≅453
Formula type Gel-in-oil Cream gel Cream gel Gel-in-oil Cream gel Cream gel
Viscosity D1 (mPa·s) ≅104,500 ≅19,600 ≅20,300 ≅99,800 ≅20,500 ≅19,100
Stability Stable Stable Stable Stable Stable Stable
Rheology data NT(g) NT(g) NT(g) NT(g)
Mean G’ (Pa) 430 411
Mean G’/G” 6.7 6.4
Yield stress (Pa) 30.5 31
Rate index 0.46 0.44
g NT: Not tested.
h w/w: Weight/weight
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