275
J. Cosmet. Sci., 74.5, 275–288 (September/October 2023)
*Address all correspondence to Sevgi Güngör, sgungor@istanbul.edu.tr
Development and Validation of a Simple and Selective
Chromatographic Method for Quantification of Ceramide-NP
in Skin-Simulating Liposome Formulations
HÜMEYRA ŞAHİN BEKTAY, EMİNE KAHRAMAN AND SEVGİ GÜNGÖR
Department of Pharmaceutical Technology, Istanbul University, Istanbul, Türkiye (H.S.B, E.K, S.G.)
Health Science Institute, Istanbul University, Istanbul, Türkiye (H.S.B)
Department of Pharmaceutical Technology, Bezmialem Vakıf University, Istanbul, Türkiye (H.S.B)
Accepted for publication September 19, 2023.
Synopsis
Numerous topical products containing ceramide to restore the skin barrier function have been available on the
market in recent years. A simple, rapid, and selective analytical method could contribute to the development
of innovative formulations such as skin-simulating liposomes, which contain ceramides as stratum corneum
components. The similarity of the physicochemical structure of ceramide and lipid excipients in liposome
formulation complicates the separative and quantitative analysis. Therefore, this study aims to develop and
validate a selective high-pressure liquid chromatography (HPLC) method for the simultaneous quantification
of lipids in ceramide-containing skin simulating liposome formulations. The separation was performed with
a reversed-phase C18 column (150 mm x 4.6 mm, 5 µm), the mobile phase system consisted of methanol:
acetonitrile (60:40, v/v), the flow rate of 0.5 ml/min, the oven temperature at 45°C, injection volume of 10 µL,
and UV detection at 210 nm. The method was linear (r2 0.99) in the range of concentration from 80 µg/mL
to 480 µg/mL with acceptable precision, accuracy, and selectivity for the liposome formulations. The limit of
detection (LOD) values of ceramide NP (Cer-NP) was 7.90 µg/mL. The limit of quantification (LOQ) values
of Cer-NP was 24.06 µg/mL. The study indicates that the method is efficient and has accuracy and selectivity
for the simultaneous quantification of Cer-NP in skin-simulating liposome formulations.
INTRODUCTION
The formulations consisting of skin components such as ceramides, cholesterol, and other
natural lipids have recently attracted attention as lipid replacement therapy in atopic
dermatitis.1 Numerous products that contain skin lipids such as ceramide, fatty acids, and
cholesterol have been available on the market to restore the skin barrier.2 The pharmaceutical
and cosmeceutical industries have mostly preferred the production of liposome formulations
for skin barrier recovery.3 Hence, a reliable analytical method is still a requirement for the
quantification of ceramides and lipid components in formulation development studies.
276 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
Even though several analytical methods including ceramides have been described
in the literature, each of them is only for lipid compounds obtained from complex
materials.4-11 The low solubility of ceramide subtypes in many solvents is an issue
to quantify ceramides in the topical formulation. Therefore, the available methods
have certain limitations to apply to topical formulation development studies. The
quantification methods and evaluations in terms of formulation development studies
are given in Table I.
The similarities in the structural identity of ceramides and phosphatidylcholines used in the
compositions of liposomes lead to difficulty to determine these compounds selectively in
their qualitative and quantitative analysis.12 The chemical structure of phosphatidylcholine,
Cer-NP, and cholesterol are given in Figure 1.
The fatty acid chain and polar head group are the characteristics of both ceramides and
phosphatidylcholines. Additionally, separated analysis of skin lipid domain components,
including ceramide, phospholipids, and cholesterol, is relatively time-consuming and high
cost. To our knowledge, there are no reports of a selective analytical method that quantify
the ceramide in a liposome formulation with lipid excipients.
Table I
HPLC-Based Qualitative and Quantitative Analytical Methods Including Ceramide Derivatives in
Literature
Evaluation Mobile phase Stationary phase Ceramide source Reference
Obtained from cell line
Poor solubility in methanol
Not suitable for topical
formulation
MeOH/NH4CH3CO2 C8 HepG2 cell line [4]
Obtained from cell line
Involving fluorescence
ceramide derivatives
Not for the topical
formulation
Methanol
NH4HCO2/aq.
NH4HCO2
C8 Ovary cancer
cell line
[5]
Necessity of derivatization
process
Insolubility in water
Formulation is not liposome
based
Water/MeOH ODS AQ Oat [6]
Specificity for protein-bound
ceramide derivatives
Not for the topical
formulation
MeOH/NH4CH3CO2 BEH C18 Human s.
corneum
[7]
Poor solubility in methanol
Not for the topical
formulation
MeOH C18 Commercial [8]
p-phenyl benzoyl derivatization
Obtained from rat
Not for the topical
formulation
Hexane/ethyl acetate Si-10 Spargue-Dawley
rat s. corneum
[9]
Not for the topical
formulation
Hexane/ethanol Si-60 Human s.
corneum
[10]
Obtained from yeast
Not for the topical
formulation
Hexane/ethanol CN S. cerevisiae [11]
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