392 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS (b) is flexible at low temperatures and yet not too limp at normal temperatures (c) is impermeable to the product, including its perfume (d) welds easily (e) prints easily, giving a print with good adhesion (f) has a plasticiser which does not migrate into the product. It is, however, never possible to achieve all these properties and any P.V.C. used must be chosen by compromise, careful attention being paid as to which property or properties should be sacrificed in order to obtain a balance which will give the maximum possible storage life. ACKNOWLEDGMENT The author wishes to thank the Directors of County Laboratories, Ltd., for permission to publish this paper. REFERENCES B.I.O.S.'Report No. 1478, 16, London, 1948. Marriott, R. H., J. Soc. Cos. Chern., 3, 163 (1952). Wartman, L. H., Ind. Eng. Chern., 47, 1013 (1955). Becke, F., Sitzungber. Akad. Wiss. Wien., 102 (i) 358 (1893). Doty, P.M., Aiken, W. H. and Mark, H., Ind. Eng. Chem., 16,686 (1944). Brubaker, D. W. and Kammermeyer, K., Ind. Eng. Chern., 44, 1465 (1952). A METHOD FOR THE ANALYSIS OF LIPSTICK Presented at the May 18th, 1956, Meeting, New York City PAUL W. JEWEL, Ph.D.* THE ANALYSIS of lipstick presents the usual difficulties met with in cosmetic preparations in general. None of the raw materials used is a pure chemical individual, and one must face the prospect of separating a mixture of mixtures into its component parts. Then, after doing a]] that may be done to determine the nature and amount of the various mixtures present, one must undertake to reconstruct the original mixture from the results of such an analysis. The problem is made more difficult by the fact that the colours, bromos and lakes alike, tend to dissolve partially in the base, obscuring endpoints, and thus making any analytical procedure more than ordinarily difficult. * Max Factor & Co., Hollywood 28, Calif.
A METHOD FOR THE ANALYSIS OF LIPSTICK 393 The method to be offered here will, I hope, enable the analyst to arrive at a composition which will be essentially that of the lipstick under investiga- tion. FREE GLYCOLS Weigh a 'sample of lipstick, circa 4-00 grams, into a 250 mi. beaker. Add 50 mi. of absolute alcohol and heat with stirring until the mass is completely dispersed. Do not boil. Transfer this dispersion to a separatory funnel containing 60 mi. of water. Shake to mix, add two drops of con- centrated HC1, and extract with three 25 mi. portions of chloroform. Use each portion of chloroform to clean out the original beaker, boiling the solvent gently in the beaker to wash down the sides. Collect the solvent extracts in a separatory funnel, wash with a small amount of water, and add this wash water to the original aqueous portion. Make the aqueous fraction up to volume in a volumetric flask and determine the propylene glycol, using the method of Shupe. • TOTAL t)IGMENTS AND BROMOS Weigh a sample of lipstick, circa 4.00 grmns, place in a 250 ml. beaker, add 100 ml. heptane*,and digest on the hotplate at a temperature just below the boiling-point of the solvent. Continue this digestion for thirty minutes. Cover with a watch glass to inhibit evaporation. Remove from the heat and allow to stand at room temperature until the solution cools and the pigments settle. Filter through a WhatmariNo. 2 filter paper into a tared beaker, decanting the solution so that as little as possible of the pigments are transferred to the paper. Then transfer the pigments to the filter with three successive 25 ml. portions of hot heptane. Allow each successive_washing to drain completely before adding the next. Finally, wash the beaker and the funnel with 25 mi. of petroleum ether. Evaporate the solvent on the steam bath until a con- stant weight is obtained and report the result as total base. The total pigments and bromos may be determined by difference after correcting for the free glycols. Or if desired, the pigments and bromos may be weighed directly. Moisten the pigments and bromos on the filter with a small amount of alcohol and extract with several portions of 1 per cent ammonia, allowing each portion to pass completely through the filter before adding the next. Break up the lumps with a small glass rod to ensure complete solution of the bromos. Precipitate the dissolved bromos with HC1, heat to coagulate, filter, and wash well with hot distilled water. Re-dissolve with 1 per cent ammonia as before. Filter, again precipitate with HC1, filter and wash with hot distilled *American Mineral Solvents Co. normal heptane.
Purchased for the exclusive use of nofirst nolast (unknown) From: SCC Media Library & Resource Center (library.scconline.org)



























































































