DIPLOMA EXAMINATION 411 2. Describe the functio. g of the following substances in toilet and cos- metic creams: Beeswax, cetyl alcohol, glycerin, glyceryl monostearate, methyl cellulose, stearic acid, water. 3. What is the function of a mucilage in a lotion ? How are mucilages prepared, and what precautions must be taken in using them in the preparation of a lotion ? 4. What properties would you consider desirable in a face powder ? Describe the materials you would use in the manufacture of face powder in order to ensure such desirable properties. 5. Give details of tests you would carry out on three of the following raw materials before passing the consignment for use in face powder production: Talc, precipitated chalk, zinc oxide, zinc stearate, kaolin, magnesium carbonate. 6. What are the essential type constituents of a modern lipstick ? Give a representative formulation, and discuss the properties of the ingredients you use. 7. Discuss the control limits required for toilet soap shaving soap liquid soap. 8. How are surface-active agents classified ? Describe a typical example of each, together with practical use in formulations. 9. You are required to formulate a toothpaste. List the major groups of ingredients you would include, and state the reason(s) for their use. PAPER TWO Candidates should answer any Five- questions. Do, not attempt to answer more than five questions. Candidates should commence each question on a separate sheet of paper. 1. Discuss "blending" and "fixation" in perfumery. 2. If you were forced to use only three single ingredients (synthetic, isolate or essential oil) for each type of floral perfume, name your selected three for the following (three for each flower): (a) Rose (b) Jasmin (c) Muguet (Lily of the Valley) (d) Violet (e) Lilac (f) Hyacinth (g) Gardenia 3. Three main groups of chemicals have been used as depilatories. What are these groups ? Describe briefly the advantages or disad- vantages of each type of material from the standpoint of the cosmetic chemist.

412 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS 4. Describe the main functions of the skin. How is its structure adaptec[ to the performance of these functions ? 5. Discuss the factors involved when selecting a package for a face cream. 6. Describe the procedure you would adopt if required to determine the degree of bacterial contamination of a cream. 7. How would you estimate the concentrations of: (i) Thioglycollic acid (it) Ammonia in a cold permanent waving lotion ? 8. Outline the principles underlying the formulation of hair dyes based oi• p-phenylene diamine. Give chemical equations where possible. COMMENTS OF THE EXAMINERS PAPER ONE In the compulsory question No. 1, all the candidates seemed to be over- whelmed by the vastness of the field open to them. r Questions 2 and 3 were answered quite well by most of the candidates. Question 4 was popular and generally well answered, although some candidates lost marks through their vagueness of expression. Few candidates answered question 6 and they largely quoted isolated facts about lipsticks without regard to the phrasing of the question. All the candidates attempted question 9 and their answers were generally quite good, although five different spellings of "saccharin" were presented. Questions 5, 7 and 8 were not answered by any of the candidates. PAPER TWO In question 1, most of the candidates failed to explain the physical effects of "blending" and "fixation." Question 2 was answered moderately well, but many of the candidates showed a lack of imagination. Those candi- dates who attempted questions 3 and 4, showed that they had a reasonable knowledge of these subjects. A few candidates appeared to have a fairly good knowledge of packaging, but several of the answers to question 5 were very sketchy and altogether too short of facts. Question 6 was well answered by a few candidates, but others were so vague as to suggest they would have a careless practical technique. Questions 7 and 8 were poorly answered by the few candidates who attempted them, their replies resembling a collection of incoherent notes. The standard of the answers to PAPER ONE was quite good, but most of the candidates seemed less conversant with the topics covered on PAPER TWO. Many of the candidates showed their inability to set out their answers in the form of a connected story.