Abstracts The Annual Scientific Meetings and Seminars of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists are important venues for informing the participants about the state of the art and recent technical advances in the field of Cosmetic Science. To provide broader dissemination of that information, the Publication Committee has decided to publish in the Journal abstracts of the technical presentations made at these Meetings and Seminars.--The Editor. Society of Cosmetic Chemists Annual Scientific Seminar Memphis, TN, May 13-14, 1982 ANTI-IRRITANTS In vitro tests for mildness additives E. D. Goddard, Ph.D., and P.S. Leung, Union Carbide Corp., Old Saw Mill River Road, Tarry- town, NY 10591. A high level of interest exists in liquid soaps which, in general, are aqueous solutions of high surfactant concentration. As such, they have a potential for skin irritation, and thus it is desirable to identify "mildness" additives for these compositions. Our program involved devising an in vivo screening test. For this purpose, a stratum corneum membrane swelling test was developed to evaluate the peroeor- mance of mildness additives. A cationic cellulose polymer was found to be the most effective for reducing the swelling of membranes caused by a number of different surfactant bases. Dr. Goddard, Corporate Research Fellow, Union Carbide Corpo- ration, earned his Ph.D. in Physical Cfiemistry from Cambridge University, England and his B.S. and M.S. degrees from Rhodes University, South Afri- ca. He has been a member of the SCC since 1975. dough conditioners and food emulsifiers since 1969. These compounds are non-toxic and non- irritating to the skin or eye at the 100% active level or in aqueous dispersions. Similar compounds derived from coconut oil show these same non- toxic, non-irritating properties. Ethoxylated mono- and diglycerides, when properly formulated with fatty alcohol sulfates, fatty ether alcohol sulfates, or alpha olefin sulfonates, dramatically reduce the irritation properties of the amionic surfactant. These nonionics are functioning here as anti- irritants. As more ethylene oxide is introduced into the mono- and diglyceride molecules, greater vis- cosity-increasing characteristics for aqueous liquid systems are obtained without the use of gums or other thickening agents or sodium chloride. These properties make ethoxylated mono- and diglycer- ides ideal components for low irritation shampoos, having low to high active surfactant concentrations and low to high (gel) viscosities. They are also excellent emulsifiers for cosmetic creams and lotions. They can be used as emulsifiers and solu- bilizers for perfume oils. Ethoxylated mono- and diglycerides as non- ionic surface active agents and anti-irritants-- part II Richard Egan, Sherex Chemical Co., P.O. Box 646, Dublin, OH 43017. Ethoxylated mono- and diglycerides derived from tallow have been used in the United States as bread Skin--Some anti-irritant effects due to treat- ments with cosmetic proteins R. Richard Riso, Maybrook, Inc., P.O. Box 68, 690 Broadway, Lawrence, MA 01842. Protein hydrolyzates, soluble collagen, amino acids, and their condensates with fatty acids are very popular functional ingredients used in products for 217

218 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS skin and hair. Benefits described range from pro- tective film-forming activity to skin moisture reten- tion. Skin softening and a natural-feeling emol- liency are often imparted. Very little reference has been made in the literature to the important prop- erty of various protein hydrolyzates and derivatives to reduce irritant effects of surfactants such as the lauryl sulfates and benzene sulfonates. Frequently cited, however, is the mildness and complete lack of irritant potential of various protein materials currently in use. Adding hydrolyzed animal protein to sodium lauryl sulfate can reduce Draize eye scores considerably, while completely eradicating the corneal and irrital involvement often seen when SLS is used alone. Data on this topic will be presented and other experimental evidence of anti- irritant activity will be covered. Three patents will be discussed. The first deals with the use of a cocohydrolyzed animal protein in a caustic soda oven cleaner. The second and third were issued to Proctor & Gamble and Colgate. Both of these demonstrate the anti-irritant activity of protein- derived materials in hand dish-washing formula- tions. Dermassage dish-washing lotion is marketed by Colgate and incorporates hydrolyzed animal protein, as discussed in the patent. The protective action of the proteins against hair damage will be shown, and original data indicating lowered Draize eye scores for shampoos and conditioners will be presented. Surface active agents based on polypeptides George Cioca, Ph.D., Secol Co., 310 East Strasburg Road, R.D.//4, Coatesville, PA 19320. The surface active agent is comprised of the reaction product of an alkyl phenylsulfonic acid and a polypeptide. The surface active agents pro- duced in accordance with this method are particu- larly useful in cosmetic applications such as sham- poos, but may also have industrial applications in textile processing and the like. It has been recog- nized that proteins are very useful in many cosmetic applications and that those in substantially pure form have remedial effects upon skin. Thus, it has been proposed that surface active agents be included in protein-based shampoos and soaps. The alkyl phenylsulfonic acids useful in these preparations are those which have a sulfonate (SO 3 group) and an hydrophobic or oleophobic group attached to a benzene ring. In accordance with the present method, a surface active agent, which is low in cost, provides minimal skin and eye irritation, while providing the recognized advantages that proteins have upon the skin. Prevention of phototoxicity by sunscreens Frank J. Akin, Ph.D., Schering-Plough Corp., 3030 Jackson Ave., Memphis, TN 38128. Phototoxicity is a unique form of light-induced injury that can be triggered by wavelengths outside the normal sunburning range. Consequently, purely UV-B sunscreens and other conventional methods of protection are ineffective in preventing the deleterious effects. Phototoxicity was induced in animal models by a variety of drugs and environ- mental agents, including antibiotics, phenothiazine tranquilizers, and psoralens, in order to evaluate the effectiveness of UV absorbers. Subsequent tests were conducted on human volunteers with photo- sensitivity reactions to various drugs. Para-amino- benzoic acid (PABA), the most widely recognized UV sunscreen, provided no protection against the cutaneous or the systemic phototoxic responses. The UV-A absorbing benzophenones were protec- tive. Sunscreens with broad-spectrum activity con- taining both a UV-A and UV-B absorber were the most effective in preventing a broad range of phototoxic reactions. The evaluation of dimethicone copolyols as anti-irritants Michael S. Starch and Claire DeVries, Dow Corn- ing, Inc., P.O. Box 1767, Midland, MI 48640. A series of silicone glycol copolymers conforming to the CTFA listing for dimethicone copolyol was tested as anti-irritants in 3% sodium lauryl sulfate when applied to the eyes of male rabbits. The results of these tests indicate that at least one of the copolymers is a more effective anti-irritant than acetamide MEA. Preparation and properties of low irritation shampoos Irving R. Schmolka, Ph.D., BASF Wyandotte Corp., 1609 Biddie Ave., Wyandotte, MI 48192. A primary interest in the low irritation shampoo market has led suppliers to search for the develop- ment of new ingredients that can contribute to cleansing without irritating the eyes or mucous membranes. In addition, there is a requirement that any shampoo ingredient must supply copious foam as well as provide viscosity to an aqueous surfactant system. The preparation and properties of a new high-foaming nonionic surfactant, which meets these requirements, are described. A comparison is made of this new nonionic surface active agent with two other nonionics, recommended or used in low irritation shampoos. The ability of this new nonionic surfactant to surpass other commercially available nonionics in viscosity build-up is illus- trated. This new nonionic surfactant, BUTRONIC 127 © , will clearly demonstrate the foam superiority of concentrated shampoo formulations in water, and in the presence of soil.