ABSTRACTS 221 preservation, 6) employee awareness. Finished product testing, consisting of sampling, testing, and interpretation of results, is essentially the moni- toring of the success of these elements. Results of these tests are interpreted according to industry and manufacturer specifications. Overview of pharmacognostical research and cosmetic formulation Ara Der Maderosian, Ph.D., Philadelphia College of Pharmacy and Science, 43rd St. & Kingsessing Mall, Philadelphia, PA 19104. The discussion will focus on the pharmacognosti- cal state of the art, with emphasis placed on developments and research trends over the past decade. Natural dyes and pigments, antimicrobials, and natural plant and animal products will also be discussed, as well as basic and applied research, with emphasis placed on cosmetic formulation. Other topics to be discussed include stabilization of cosmetic formulations prepared with natural prod- ucts, and natural product extracts and concentrates, their preparation and utilization in cosmetic prod- ucts. World-wide use of natural products' implica- tions for research design Norman Farnsworth, Ph.D., College of Pharmacy, University of Illinois, 833 South Wood St., Chica- go, IL 60680. The discussion will focus on contemporary research and the utilization of natural products of proven and potential value from all over the world, such as aloe--its use, efficacy, and the current state of knowledge about it, and ginseng--a plant to which hormonal activity is attributed and which has enormous application and implication potential for cosmetics. Other topics to be discussed include the suppression of melanin production by plant extracts having dopa hydroxylase enzyme-inhibit- ing activity, and topical and internal uses of natural products. Present and future trends in the use and avail- ability of natural products William A. Meer, Ph.D., Meer Corporation, 9500 Railroad Ave., North Bergen, NJ 07047. The origins of natural products, their cultivation, identification, relative availability, and stabilization for product application research and cosmetic use will be discussed, along with current commercial use in the U.S.A. and abroad. Future trends will be investigated and predictions of market supply will be made. Laboratory control, testing and analytical standards, and shelf studies will also be discussed, and the following questions will be raised: Can cosmetics formulated with natural products be treated in the conventional manner or are special procedures needed? Why are cosmetics formulated with natural products optimal from a consumer's viewpoint? NEW COSMETIC TECHNOLOGY Absorptive aluminum hydroxide gels in topi- cal products Roger E. Nelson, Ph.D., Arthur A. Siciliano, Ph.D., Reheis Chemical Company, 235 Snyder Ave., Berkely Heights, NJ 07922. Aluminum hydroxide gels (REDERM) possessing highly absorptive properties are described. Both fluid and co-dried forms exhibit higher levels of protein binding, oil absorbency, and water absor- bency than do many other ingredients traditionally used in cosmetic and pharmaceutical products. These unique properties make the gels especially useful in a wide range of topical products of different forms. Various formulations are discussed in conjunction with proposed OTC claims for topical, skin protectant products. The effect of specific polymers on the proper- ties of nitrocellulose-based nail lacquers Mitchell L. Schlossman, Tevco, Inc., 507 Washing- ton Ave., Carlstadt, NJ 07072. The nitrocellulose film tends to be brittle and to adhere poorly to the nail surface unless it is properly modified by various polymeric materials. Most nail enamel formulas contain toluene sulfon- amide-formaldehyde resin as the chief modifying agent. In this study polymers such as acrylates, ethyl cellulose, polyethylene, vinyls polyesters, polyam- ides, etc., will be evaluated for gloss, adhesion, flexibility, and hardness in a typical nail lacquer system. Applications technology for carbopolUresins and cosmetic formulations Stanley T. Trier, Donald L. Secard, and Peter C. Braun, BF Goodrich Chemical Group, 6100 Oak Tree Blvd., Cleveland, OH 44131. This paper consolidates into a few minutes time almost thirty years of practical experience in using Carbopol © resins in cosmetic applications. Empha- sis will be on laboratory and plant dispersion techniques, activation mechanisms, and orders of addition. Dual neutralization, hydrogen bonding, and other basic principles of special interest to newcomers to the profession will be discussed. Also included is new information on neutralizers, and on compatibility with protein materials, surfac- tants, and preservatives.

222 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS Polytrap tm polymer entrapment system A. V. Calogero, Wichen Products, Inc., Big Pond Road, Huguenot, NY 12726. A major breakthrough has been achieved in chemi- cal specialties with the development and subse- quent commercialization of a unique concept which embodies the entrapment of functional material within a hydrophobic, polymeric matrix. The polymer entrapment system, under the name POLYTRAP TM, renders a variety of functional materials in a constantly available state. In this paper we will present POLYTRAP TM and relate it to its current and potential utility in a wide spec- trum of application areas we will also relate it to its potential of broadening the art and science of cosmetic formulating. Specific prototypes will be presented and discussed each product area will contribute to fully understanding the unique mech- anism of the polymer entrapment system, its com- plexities, and its wide-ranging versatility and func- tionality. Mastergels and their applications in cosmetics & toiletries products Kishor Fozdar, NL Chemicals/NL Industries, Wyckoff Mills Road, Hightstown, NJ 08520. Mastergels are smooth, homogenous gels obtained by expanding clay platelets of BENTONE © addi- tive in different oils or organic solvents. BEN- TONE©s are organically modified clay gellants. Different Mastergels and their physical and chemi- cal properties will be discussed. Advantages derived from the use of Mastergels will be presented. Typical formulas containing Mastergels will be shown and discussed. The lathering potential of anionic surfactants: the effect of conditioning ingredients J. Roger Hart and Mark T. DeGeorge, W. R. Grace & Co., 491 Amherst Street, Nashua, NH 03063. Conditioning additives often have a detrimental effect on the lather quality of shampoos and skin cleansers. The effect resulting from the addition of modified quaternary salts, fatty amines and lanolin derivatives on the latherability of sodium, ammo- nium and triethanolamine lauryl sulfates, sodium alpha olefin sulfonate and sodium lauryl sarcosi- nate is described. Reactive organosiloxanes for personal care use Samuel Wendel, Ph.D., Dow Corning Corp., P.O. Box 1767, Midland, MI 48640. Modification of basic dimethylsiloxane via the attachment of various organo-functional groups to the silicone polymer backbone are described. Sev- eral classes of functionality pertinent to personal care products are illustrated. These include alcohol and amine functionality. The product forms, prop- erties, and advantages over non-reactive siloxanes are discussed. Applications in the hair care area are reviewed and potential uses in skin care products proposed. Glucamate R Doe-120: a new agent for viscos- ity enhancement Stuart B. Polovsky, Ph.D., Martin Smolin, and Arenon Friedman, Amerchol Corp., P.O. Box 351, Edison, NJ 08818. Glucamate © DOE-120 (PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate), a new macromolecule based on the chemistry of methyl glucoside, has the ability to thicken common detergent systems used in sham- poos. Structurally, it is a unique compound. It is primarily planar with lipophilic alkenyl groups and hydrophilic polyoxyethylene chains around the perimeter of the molecule. This allows it the capacity to set-up a network system which would be rigid and should permeate the shampoo. Gluca- mate © DOE-120 can solubilize dirt or oil and act much like a secondary detergent. It is extremely mild and will often act synergistically when used with common foam-boosting and thickening agents. Glucamate © DOE-120 is useful as a non- ionic surfactant of great versatility and stability over a wide range of conditions in cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. There is no threat of nitrosamine contamination. Glucamate © DOE-120 is easy to work with and sample formulations will be pre- sented demonstrating its use. The use of low molecular weight polyethyl- enes and ethylene copolymers in personal care products Irving B. Chang, Allied Chemical Corp., P.O. Box 1087R, Morristown, NJ 07960. Low molecular weight polyethylene and ethylene copolymers can be used to impart many advantages and special properties to personal care products. They are used in all types of make-up products, special creams and lotions, scrub powders, and special texturized powders and liquids, mediated ointments, and dental adhesives. A general approach is described in using ethylene copoly- mers, a solvent generally incompatible, and a cosol- vent as a ternary system. In this manner, desirable gel compositions are predictable and easy to opti- mize. These products function in personal care products as thickeners, stabilizers, suspending agents, viscosity-controlling agents, mild abrasives, and texturizing agents. They have a proven record of being safe and effective. Allied Corporation