ABSTRACTS 223 manufactures thirty-seven grades which are mar- keted, prilled, diced, powdered, micronized fine powders, heavy greases or even-flowing heavy oils. This company is committed to growth in the personal care industry, whether with existing prod- ucts or new ones. New high efficiency aqueous thickener David Witiak, Ph.D., Rohm and Haas Company Research Laboratories, Independence Mall West, Philadelphia, PA 19105. Thickeners are widely used to adjust the viscosity of solutions, stabilize formulations and otherwise modify the rheology in a variety of cosmetic/ toiletry, detergent, household, and industrial spe- cialty products. A new thickener, Acrysol ICS-1, has been developed with exceptionally high effi- ciency and unique properties in aqueous-based formulations. The thickener can interact with sur- factant micelles leading to a marked increase in thickening efficiency. This new thickener is pre- pared as a high solids, low viscosity, aqueous polymer emulsion which is easily and instantly converted to its soluble thickening form by neutral- izing to pH 6.5 or above with a variety of bases. The thickener forms clear, smooth, non-grainy and non-stringy solutions, is stable in and efficiently thickens highly caustic solutions and is compatible with anionic, nonionic and amphoteric surfactants. The material is useful for thickening a wide variety of aqueous systems ranging from shampoos and other personal care products to concentrated caus- tic solutions and other heavy-duty cleaning formu- lations. Liquid pearl concentrates--a new raw mate- rial for cold mix hair and skin cleansers Louis J. Nehmsmann, Ph.D., Alcolac Inc., 3440 Fairfield Rd., Baltimore, MD 21226. In a typical conventional batch process for manu- facturing pearlized products, up to 95% of the energy consumption is thermal energy. In light of current energy costs, it is of prime interest to all to reduce this energy requirement. The utilization of thermal energy only where needed and conserved where not essential to a process, is the principle behind low energy emulsification. Using this prin- ciple as a basis, the concept is expanded by the development of a new series of Liquid Pearl Con- centrates and formulae for ambient temperature (cold mix) manufacture of pearlized products, including shampoos and liquid hand soaps. The goal is lower cost and easier formulation utilizing cold mixing of the Liquid Pearl Concentrates in the pearl formula. Three separate anionic surfactant systems are described: sodium lauryl ethoxysulfate, ammonium lauryl sulfate and olefin sulfonate. The physical properties of possible formulations are examined. Variables are discussed such as viscosity and the dependence of pearl formation on the concentration of salt, amide and the amount of Liquid Pearl Concentrate required to give a maxi- mum pearl. The formula characteristics, including pH, foam, and additive compatibilities of each of the three surfactant systems are highlighted. The data given defines how a lower cost, lower energy input system utilizing Liquid Pearl Concentrates in each of the three basic types of anionic surfactant systems can be used to formulate and manufacture pearlized products of varied viscosities and degree of pearl at ambient temperature. Assessing the conditioning properties of alkylamidobetaines by the measurement of substantivity to hair and skin Beatriz M. Neghme and Elaine S. Stern, Inolex Chemical Company, 4221 S. Western Blvd., Chica- go, IL 60609. Cosmetic conditioners are substantive to hair and skin: they function by being absorbed or adsorbed by these substrates. Alkylamidobetaines are used as cosmetic conditioners because they are known to inhibit the irritation potential of surfactants present in hair and skin care formulations. This paper postulates that conditioning by alkylamidobetaines is due to the substantivity of betaine derivatives. Presented here is a rapid, sensitive method for the determination of betaine substantivity. The method involves the spectrophotometric measurement of the periodide complex of the quaternary nitrogen present in betaine derivatives. Three betaines are investigated--oleamidopropyl, cocamidopropyl, and isostearylamidopropyl. Betaine substantivity to virgin, bleached, and bleached-water hair is mea- sured from an anionic shampoo system. Betaine substantivity to skin is measured from oil-in-water emulsions. The study shows that the betaine deriva- tives under investigation are substantive to all three types of hair and to skin. On hair, betaine substan- tivity is related to the molecular weight and branch- ing of the derivative the isostearyl derivative gives the highest substantivity. On skin, molecular weight and branching do not affect betaine sub- stantivity. Cationic cellulosics in liquid soaps formula- tion variables affecting viscosity Mary E. Turney, Union Carbide Corp., Old Saw Mill River Road, Tarrytown, NY 10591. A critical property of liquid soaps is viscosity. As is well known, viscosity of concentrated surfactant systems can be markedly influenced by the types

224 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS and amounts of surfactants present, as well as inorganic salts. Some of the specific comparisons made for systems containing a cationic cellulosic polymer were alkyl ether sulfates versus alpha olefin sulfonates, high-purity diethanolamide versus coco amide, with/without betaines and with/without salt. Despite the complexity of these multi-compo- nent systems, the results obtained were frequently predictable. However, owing to interaction effects, in many cases major departures from anticipated behavior were observed, and in these cases the type and minor variations in structure of the surfactants were shown to contribute to these variations. The responses for the various ingredients in these sys- tems should aid in formulating liquid soaps con- taining cationic cellulosic polymers. CRITICAL ISSUES Cosmetic regulation in the 1980's Bruce L. Mishkin, Helena Rubinstein, Inc., 55 Hartz Way, Secaucus, NJ 07094. Particular attention will be paid to color additive testing programs. The discussion will focus on cosmetic ingredient review, OTC monograph pro- cedures, as well as FDA regulatory programs. Cosmetic regulatory issues in the 80's John M. Clayton, Ph.D., Schering-Plough Corp., P.O. Box 377, Memphis, TN 38151. During the next few years, a number of critical regulatory and advertising issues will be facing the cosmetics industry. Ranging from product safety to product performance and promotion, these issues have significant impact that will help shape the direction of research and development, manufac- ture, introduction to market, and advertising claims for this ever-expanding product class for several years to come. Network acceptance--how to get your com- mercial accepted Mary Lou Jennerjahn, CBS Broadcast Group, 151 W. 52nd St., New York, NY 10019. The presentation will explain the process involved in getting an advertiser's commercial approved for broadcast over CBS television facilities. It will explain the makeup and function of the entire review process from script to final film. Additional- ly, claims substantiation and the review by the commercial clearance department, as well as the research department, will be discussed. A short film will be shown to illustrate this point.