j. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 37, 109-110 (March/April 1986) Book Review COSMETIC ANALYSIS: SELECTIVE METHODS AND TECHNIQUES, P. Bor6, Ed. Marcel Dekker, Inc., 270 Mad- ison Ave., New York, NY 10016, 1985. $85, US and Canada $102, elsewhere. This book is the 4th volume in a series Cosmetic Science and Technology, under the general editorial direction of Eric Junger- mann of Jungermann Associates, Inc., Phoenix, Arizona. The publisher makes the rather all-inclusive claim that "this volume covers the application of non-sep- arative and chromatographic methods in- volved in the analysis of modern cosmetic products." This reviewer finds the claim too far-reaching. It should state, rather, that specific cosmetics are analyzed for specific ingredients by very specialized an- alytical techniques. The book is divided into nine chapters which occupy 287 pages. The appendix, from page 289 to 519, consists of in- frared and 1H, and •3C NMR spectra of 40 polymers which may be found in cosmetic products. All of the contributors and the editor are from L'Oreal's Department of Analytical Chemistry, Research Division, Aulnay- Sous-Bols, France. The preface contains the caveat that the "techniques are proce- dures of expertise which would be found in a large central laboratory with heavy emphasis on instrumentation, being served by highly specialized scientists." To exemplify this, instrumental tech- niques used are: infrared Fourier Trans- form 1H NMR and 13C NMR spectrom- etry capillary and packed column gas chromatography with flame ionization and photoionization detection pyrolysis GC with Curie point and capacitive-boosted filament pyrolyzers and GC/mass spec- trometry, with electron impact and chem- ical ionization headspace GC using both a static sampling method and "purge and trap" high performance thin layer chro- matography with a densitometer suitable for measuring fluorescence quenching in the UV region and a computer for data processing and high performance liquid chromatographic equipment suitable for gradient generation with the following detectors: fixed wavelength UV and vis- ible, variable wavelength, photodiode UV-visible, electrochemical and fluores- cence. The equipment also must be ca- pable of post-column derivatization. In Chapter 2, differential pulse voltammetry and direct-current and differential pulse polarography are used. While the products of interest analyzed in Chapter 1 are hair sprays, hair lotions and conditioners, shampoos (wet and dry), permanent waving solutions, and nail lac- quers, the emphasis is on the separation and identification of the polymers only. For example, in the separation of polymers from surfactants by ion exchange, mere mention is made of the fact that the sur- factants may be desorbed from the ion ex- change resin, but an extensive separation purification scheme is presented to iden- tify the polymers by IR and 1H and 13C NMR spectroscopy. Chapter 2 is limited to the determination of antioxidants in vegetable oils by differ- ential pulse voltammetry, benzoyl per- oxide in lipstick by direct-current polar- ography, and 2,2'-dithiobispyridine by differential pulse polarography. Chapter 3 deals with mercaptoacetic acid (thioglycolic acid) in waving and depila- 109

110 BOOK REVIEW tory products. The various components found in commercial mercaptoacetic acid are separated from the other ingredients in waving lotions and depilatories, precipi- tating as cadmium salts. A detailed de- scription of the procedure for separation is given. The precipitated salts may be de- rivatized and determined by gas chroma- tography. Chapter 4 describes methods of character- izing synthetic high polymers by pyrolysis GC. Both Curie point and capacitive- boosted filament pyrolysis are used. One disturbing feature in this chapter is that some pyrograms are the result of the former techniques others of the latter. Flash derivatization before pyrolysis is also discussed. Chapter 5 discusses pyrolysis of a number of quaternary ammonium compounds. This technique appears very suitable for identification of these compounds. It is also useful to characterize the purity of materials used in the manufacture of the quaternary. This chapter does not suggest ways of separating the quaternary am- monium compounds from the cosmetic bases in which they are found. Headspace GC has been around for a while. It has some very positive advan- tages: The chromatogram generally does not contain a huge solvent peak and non- volatile material which is normally depos- ited in the injection port is not injected. In Chapter 6, several examples illustrate the determination of residual solvents and/or monomers, 1,4-dioxane in a shampoo containing ethoxylated fatty al- cohol, and hydrogen sulfide in a hair- waving lotion. Some time is spent dis- cussing the "purge and trap" technique which generally is a much more sensitive technique since it is dynamic, i.e., a sample may be taken over a period of time from a stream of gas being passed over a large sample. Chapter 7 discusses the use of high perfor- mance thin layer chromatography to sepa- rate and identify 66 cosmetic preserva- tives. The authors detail procedures for separating preservatives from 9 different cosmetic classes. The four TLC procedures used to separate the preservatives are given. This chapter, the longest in the book, contains 48 pages of tables and four pages of a flow chart of a sample BASIC program for data processing. Chapter 8 basically describes a system of amino acid analysis which will analyze protein hydrolysates in approximately 2 hours. A sealed tube hydrolysis at 120øC with the tubes being rotated at 36 rpm is accomplished in 4 hours. A table is given of the amino acid residues of seven com- merical protein derivatives to aid in iden- tification. Chapter 9 is the most fascinating in the book. State-of-the-art HPLC techniques are used to describe the separations of 13 dye couplers and precursors. Chromato- grams on a number of different columns are shown. Capacity factors of the solutes are plotted versus many eluants to indicate separations in those systems. A real fault in the chapter is that the peaks obtained are identified only by number and the reader has to continually refer to Table 1, a two-page table at the beginning of the chapter, for the identifications of sample peaks. In this chapter the authors discuss relative advantages of different kinds of detection. They also discuss post-column reaction with a UV-absorbing chromo- phore and with a fluorescent-labeling reactant. In summary, the book may not be a guide for routine analysis for everyday cosmetic products, but for the case where one might have a specific application referred to in the book and the equipment to ac- complish the analysis, this would be a useful reference.--ROBERT F. SCHU- BERT-The Gillette Co., Boston, MA 02106.