6 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS lOO i i C7 C7 C7 Figure 1. Percent reduction in combing forces for wet hair before and after treatment with conditioning formulations containing organofunctionalized siloxysilicate resins. Results are averages of three measure- ments each on two tresses per treatment, and are normalized against a shampoo control. 40 1 y=30.754-1 3SOle-3x R^2=0.901 •o 0 2000 4000 6000 8000 10CX30 12000 Work Values (I.•-Joules) ß 4 Sharnl:x)oin• Figure 2. Maximum tress diameter (MTD) for hair shampooed two and three times. Observed differences are less than 0.5%, demonstrating reproducibility of the technique. Values are averages of three measure- ments each on two tresses per treatment for each template diameter.

ORGANOFUNCTIONALIZED SILICONE RESINS 7 deviations in the readings. Thus great care was taken to insure an undisturbed atmo- sphere during the volume experiments. LUSTER EVALUATIONS Luster evaluations were performed on 6-in 3-g tresses of virgin medium-brown Cauca- sian and untreated Oriental hair obtained from DeMeo Bros. The styryl-modified si- 1oxysilicate resin was formulated into a cuticle coat conditioning product as shown in Formulation 2 listed in Appendix A. This composition was used in luster evaluations on Caucasian and Oriental hair types and was compared to tresses treated with 1) a com- mercial shine spray containing dimethicone gum, cyclomethicone, and several organic oils, 2) a commercial cuticle coat composition containing dimethicone and phenyltri- methicone, or 3) a protein-based shine enhancer product. The cuticle coat formulations were applied by first placing two drops on the palm of the hand, rubbing the hands together, and then working through the tresses. The shine spray was applied from a distance of 6 in, depressing the actuator valve three times per side, and delivering a total of 0.6 g of product per tress. The protein-based shine enhancer was used at a level of 0.37 g/2 g tress and worked through the hair according to the package directions. All tresses were air dried for 2 hr prior to evaluations. Luster evaluations were performed by an independent salon operator and an in-house panel of 23 participants. Panelists were asked to compare the treated tresses to untreated controls and then to rate shine on a scale of 1-5. Two reference standards were provided for their benefit: relaxed African- American hair soaked in hexane for 15 min representing a dull standard, or a value of 1 on this scale, and untreated Oriental hair dipped in mineral oil depicting a tress possessing a high degree of shine, characterized by a 5 on the luster scale. CURL RETENTION MEASUREMENTS The use of unmodified siloxysilicate or MQ resins in hair fixative applications is known in the art (27). To determine the effect organomodification of the silicone resin would have on set properties, curl retention studies were carried out using the unfunctionalized siloxysilicate materials and several of the modified resins. Included in this test was a water-set control, an unmodified MQ resin, the three alkyl-modified siloxysilicates, an isostearyl ester-modified MQ, and a polyether-functional resin (EO-modified). Set re- tention evaluations were performed by shampooing the hair twice, then applying a 10% active dilution of the silicone resins to the wet hair. The polyether-modified resin was diluted in water while the unmodified and alkyl-functional siloxysilicates were diluted to 10% active solutions in cyclomethicone. The ester-functional compound was applied from a 10% dilution in an aliphatic hydrocarbon solvent. A water-set control tress was included in this experiment for comparison purposes. The shampooed tresses were dipped into the various solutions, wound around a glass rod of 1/2-inch diameter, the ends being secured with rubber bands, and allowed to condition overnight at 50% RH and 25øC (+/-2øC) prior to curl evaluations. Measurements were taken at set intervals over a 24-hr period, and percent curl retention was calculated according to the formula: % Curl retention - -- x 100%