351 Silicone Reduce Combing Force, Flyaway, Damage in Shampoo stable even when diluted in the lather test, because if the microemulsions were not stable, the inner phase of amodimethicone and silicone quaternium-18 would come out from the microemulsion and affect the shampoo lathering property and lathering stability. From the lather results, we supposed that the molecular structure at microemulsion state would not affect the lather quantity and stability of shampoo samples. Table I Model Transparent Shampoo Formulations and Basic Physical Properties Ingredients (INCI) Concentration [%]S1 S2 S3 S4 Water qs to 100.00 qs to 100.00 qs to 100.00 qs to 100.00 EDTA Disodium 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 Sodium Laureth Sulfate 12.60 12.60 12.60 12.60 Cocamidopropyl Betaine 1.80 1.80 1.80 1.80 Cocamide MEA 1.20 1.20 1.20 1.20 Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 Sodium Lauroamphoacetate 0.09 0.09 0.09 0.09 Sodium Lauryl Sulfate 0.28 0.28 0.28 0.28 Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 Acrylates Copolymer 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 Amodimethiconea -0.21 0.42 -Silicone Quaternium-18b ---0.18 Sodium Chloride qs qs qs qs Preservative qs qs qs qs Fragrance qs qs qs qs Viscosity (mPa.s) 2,200 1,750 1,350 1,800 Transmittance (%)99.6 99.3 96.5 99.6 a Silsoft@ AM1021N LV PMF emulsion, amodimethicone concentration: 21%. b Silsoft@ Silk PMF emulsion, silicone quaternium-18 concentration: 36%. S1 S2 S3 S4 Amount of Lather Score (out of 100) 72.50 71.67 71.67 72.50 Lather Stability Score (out of 100) 66.82 66.82 66.82 66.82 40.00 50.00 60.00 70.00 80.00 90.00 n=3 Figure 3. Lather test results for model transparent shampoos. Means +/− SD. S1: base shampoo without silicone S2: shampoo with 0.21% amodimethicone S3: shampoo with 0.42% amodimethicone S4: shampoo with 0.18% silicone quaternium-18.

352 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE Figure 4 shows the sebum cleansing test results for each shampoo sample. Addition of 0.21% amodimethicone did not affect the shampoo sebum cleansing results, but addition of 0.42% amodimethicone or 0.18% silicone quaternium-18 did affect the sebum cleansing results. In our deposition data, we observed a very small quantity of silicone deposition on natural hair for 0.21% amodimethicone added in shampoo this indicated that more deposition of silicone may affect the sebum cleansing rate. In other words, the more silicone deposition, the higher conditioning effect of shampoo and the less sebum cleansing rate. Sebum cleansing rate is known to indicate the mildness of shampoo the less sebum cleansing rate, the milder the shampoo (14). Adding 0.42% amodimethicone and 0.18% silicone quaternium-18 showed a high conditioning effect and improved the shampoo mildness, and may prevent excessive washout of the lipid on scalp. Excessive washout of lipid will cause dryness of scalp skin, which could increase the probability of skin irritation. Consumers who don’t wash their hair every day may select a strong shampoo with strong sebum cleansing rate for consumers who wash their hair every day, a mild shampoo is recommended to avoid excessive removal of scalp lipids. HAIR DYNAMIC COMBING TEST AND HAIR FLYAWAY CONTROL TEST RESULTS Figure 5 shows the hair dynamic combing test results on Asian damaged hair. The deposition of amodimethicone and silicone quaternium-18 could improve the hair surface smoothness and therefore could reduce the combing force. The combing force of S1, the base shampoo without silicone, was set as 1.00 larger than 1.00 meant a need for more combing force to comb through the hair swatch, and less than 1.00 meant a need for less combing force to comb through the hair swatch. During lathering, except S3, in shampoo with 0.42% amodimethicone, no bigger difference was observed for S1, S2, and S4 shampoo samples. This is not unexpected, as all S1, S2, and S4 shampoos are conditioning shampoos with cationic polymers the only difference is with and without silicone. From the lather test, we knew that all three shampoo samples were very similar on the shampoo lather score, therefore the foam would hardly affect the combing force. We are not sure why S3 showed less combing force than S1, the base shampoo without silicone. During the rinsing 40.0 50.0 60.0 70.0 80.0 90.0 100.0 S1 S2 S3 S4 *p 0.05 n=3 **Figure 4. Sebum cleansing test results for shampoos. Means +/− SD. S1: base shampoo without silicone S2: shampoo with 0.21% amodimethicone S3: shampoo with 0.42% amodimethicone S4: shampoo with 0.18% silicone quaternium-18. Artificial Sebum Cleansing Rate %