414 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE by ultrasonication focused on the comparative effects of curcumin nanoemulsions in terms of wound healing and anti-inflammatory action. Clove oil, Tween 80 (surfactant), and PEG-400 (cosurfactant) were used to prepare these nanoemulsions, which exhibited inflammatory and wound-healing effects, demonstrating their potential as a safe and nontoxic topical delivery (86). The use of nanocarriers for effective delivery of curcumin for cosmetic applications is an area that has much room to explore. Table I summarizes the studies conducted with nanocarriers for effective delivery of curcumin for cosmetic applications. CURCUMIN IN ANTIAGING COSMETICS Cosmetics are products that amplify, intensify cleansing, and promote the beauty of skin (87), but without affecting the body’s structure or functions. The vital factors driving the global cosmetics market include rising consumer focus toward grooming and personal appearance, rapid urbanization and improved quality of life, and increasing per-capita disposable income of consumers. According to Allied Market Research, antiaging cosmetic products have been identified as a significant contributor to the escalating growth in the cosmetics market, especially in Western and European markets. In addition, the global demand for natural and organic cosmetic products is also increasing significantly, but at a higher pace in developed economies owing to increasing consumer awareness regarding the adverse effects of synthetic ingredients. The rising demand for natural, herbal, and organic beauty products creates opportunities for research and innovations to meet consumer preferences. Table I Summary of Studies Done With Curcumin Nanocarriers for Cosmetic Applications Study Type of nanocarrier Cosmetic benefits Reference #Synthesis and characterization of nanospheres Curcumin nanospheres Increased antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity (49) Increasing photo stability by nanoencapsulation Lipid core nanocapsules (LNC) Increased photostability and antioxidant activity (79) Comparative study of curcumin nanoencapsulations Silk curcumin nanoparticles (silk/cur NP) Antiaging effects (75) Smart film technology in dermal permeation Curcumin smart films Enhanced dermal penetration (80) Topical formulations for better skin permeation Curcumin liposomes/ transfersomes and ethosomes Better skin permeation (81) Enhancing bioavailability for therapeutic usefulness Curcumin solid lipid nanoparticles (SLN) Enhanced bioavailability (82) Prolonged curcumin activity after UVB irradiation Nanospheres of curcumin Better radical scavenging against photo degradation (54) Protection against UVB- induced cytotoxicity Microemulsion of curcumin Increased antioxidant capacity and reduction of photo-damage (84) Better skin permeation Curcumin nanoemulsion Improved skin permeation and enhanced radical scavenging activity (85) Comparative effects in treatment of inflammation Curcumin nanoemulsion Enhanced anti-inflammatory action (86)
415 Curcumin Against Skin Aging Turmeric, or curcumin, is an ingredient conventionally used in beauty culture due to its renowned skin-brightening, moisturizing, scar-removing, anti-acne and anti-inflammatory properties. Among the diverse range of turmeric/curcumin-based cosmetic products, the most commonly used marketing claims are their skin-brightening and scar-removal applications. However, only a few products are available that promote the antiaging benefits of curcumin. Table II summarizes turmeric/curcumin formulations with antiaging benefits that are available in the market. It is interesting to note that almost all of them use curcumin in the form of turmeric root extract. Although a lot of research has been done to develop cosmetics with pure curcumin for topical applications against skin aging, most of these research results have not been commercialized yet. Insufficient extraction efficiency, cost of extraction, and stability issues under processing conditions could be the main challenges in converting such research results into market-ready products. CONCLUSIONS The cosmetic industry is trending toward more natural and organic solutions of obtaining a young and rejuvenated appearance. Curcumin finds a superior position among many other natural ingredients, owing to its special chemical functionalities. It acts as a free- radical scavenger an inhibitor for the elastase, collagenase, and hyaluronidase enzymes and an inhibitor of the transcription NF-κB, thereby exhibiting excellent antioxidant, anti-elastase, anticollagenase, antihyaluronidase, anti-inflammatory, and photo-protective properties. Hence, curcumin can be viewed as a skin antiaging agent with multimodal actions. In utilizing curcumin as an active ingredient in skin-care cosmetics, extensive studies have been done to overcome challenges such as low water solubility and low chemical stability under the conditions used for real-time storage, and on various delivery methods. While a majority of the commercialized products use curcumin in direct forms such as powders or extracts, investigations are underway to develop more effective formulations such as curcumin conjugates with delivery-assisting molecules and curcumin nanocarriers Table II Curcumin-Based Skin Antiaging Cosmetics in the Market Commercial Product Manufacturer Active Ingredients Marketing Claims Turmeric Enlighten Serum Andalou Naturals Turmeric Vitamin C Removes dark spots, counteracts free-radical damage caused by UV rays and boosts collagen and elastin production Double Serum Complete Age Control Concentrate Clarins Turmeric and other plant extracts Visibly reduces wrinkles Good for dullness and uneven texture Antioxidant Turmeric Booster Verso Turmeric Vitamin E Reduces premature aging and makes skin soft and hydrated CyberDERM PM Anti-Age CyberDERM Turmeric EUK-134 Gorgonian extract Provides incredible skin brightening, potent antioxidant and anti- inflammatory benefits to the skin Hello FAB Ginger &Turmeric Vitamin C Jelly Mask First Aid Beauty Turmeric Vitamin C Ginger Supplies comfort to stressed-out skin and brightens the appearance of the skin Turmeric Brightening Polish Volition Turmeric Olive oil Sandalwood Brightens skin, assists with the signs of aging, and delivers superior hydration and softness
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