NON-FLORAL PERFUMES culinary side, for instance, sage, tarragon, chervil, mints and and also to the "simples" remedial herbs--chamomile, dill, pennyroyal and rue, together some consideration for the aromaticks"--lavender, rose- balm and bergamot for use in pomanders and pomatums. From the perfumery viewpoint, however, some endeavour to epitom- ise must be attempted, and it is interesting to note that ½erbelaud, in his "classification," devotes no less than five sections to the Umbelli- fers. Although this family includes about twenty of the more important "herbals," nevertheless, upon formu- Labiatoe Balm . Bergamot Savory ' [ White Harehound Umbelliferae Aromatic • Angelica Sweet Cicely Chervil ½•?PUlegon e ?• :i Carvone •:•,• ..... •}i:'i Camphor i:)'.7::." , r Garden mint [ Water mint -'• Spearmint Peppermint [ Pennyroyal Thyme 'Marjoram I • Hyssop • j' Basil I Sage I [ Clary sage Lavender Rosemary Compositae Southernwood Chamomile Tansy Tarragon Marigold' 'Anethole Caraway Cummin Coriander q Dill Fennel Anise Lavage Apiol f Carrots Parsley Celery Parsnip Roots i Hemlock Asafoetida Galbanum I Sumbul ' Opoponax [ Ammoniacurn Miscellaneous Barage (Boraginaceae) Salad Burner (Rosaceae) Rue (Rutace•e) 199

JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS lating a more detailed catalogue it is noticed that approximately the same number can be found among the oeabiatce, concluding with several of the Compositce and a few examples from miscellaneous families. Arranged in the previous sequence it is noted, as with the spices, t•hat certain groupings with dominant characteristics emerge and within these room can be found for the miscellaneous items. A consideration of this listing would seem to indicate that the fundamental of a typical culinary "Herbal" note is most likely to be found in a balance between the carvone and anethole bearing plants, for instance, in sage-thyme and dill- coriander. In so far as the synthetics are con- cerned, and after reviewing the list of some seventy items which possess green-leaf and herbaceous odours, these would appear to be more suitable for the construction of folial, verdure and fern aromas or, to put it briefly, as with the oakmoss and lichen group, more satisfactory results can be obtained from a few. simple permutations upon the essen- tial oils from some of the plants listed above, rather than elaboration from the synthetic aromatics. THE AMBER FRAGRANCE Most perfumers have their own special interpretations of the indis- pensable Ambreine note and it is interesting to observe 'just how many of the adjuvant fundamentals con- tribute to its tonal make-up. For 200 instance, we find the resinous l•ab- danura Crete, the rooty vetivert and the woody santal and cedar esters, balsamic vanillas, spicy patch- ouli, and the warmth of clary sage, as well as the musky •adence of angelica and ambrette oils, the fragrant top-notes from the rue aldehydes and ketones, and finally the floral sweetness of rose, iris and jasmin. From such a wealth contributed by the natural materials, assistance from synthetic products only seems justified when economical versions have to be considered and, in this direction, isoamyl and isobutyl cin- hamares, supported by the nitro musks, are probably the most suit- able diluents. THE AROMA OF HONEY This note is one of the most useful in the gamut of the adjuvants and, moreover, comparatively simple in ::: construction, being based upon vari- ous combinations of the aliphatic, aromatic and woody alcohol phenyl- acetates plus a trace of diacetin. Such compounds are almost uni-): versal sweeteners and impart depth 5 body and tenacity to every base in which they are incorporated, but probably the outstanding quality::': observed•(after the sweetness) is the ability to enfold, subdue and mellow the "medicated" after-odour found : with so many of the synthetic? aromatic chemicals of the ether?!i:i , phenone and ketone class. If these honey bases contain? phenylacetic acid and some methyl quinoline, the note begins