•":•/•½edome more pomade-like and waxy, :•iCut the civetal backnote, although at •,•'.ifirSt not particularly prominent, has }? • t•ndency to become very obtrusive. •}•}•??.•:: THE ALDEHYDIC NOTES with the xtive, •}?ffimers have evolved their own aliphatic aldehyde complexes purpose or individuM tonality, and work in this Mthin the past decade has :been made e•ier by the purity and mbility of the materials which become available. ß The normal rance cannot, of be extended, but interesting •:Sauxiliaries have occasionally }?eared for instance, the di-methyl :•)½?:and di-ethyl acetals of octy], decyl, ?•:undecylenic, cinnamic and amyI- •. cmnamic aldehydes and citral, which •:'•(suggest many probable uses not •.•:Oossible with the aldehydes them- ?Selves. Furthermore, there are Mso •.' •a number of newer a•yl and cyclo- :?•:.•hexanol esters whch a•ord consider- •?able support to the earlier bases of Cthe fruity pseudo-aldehydes. .:• The incidence of some of the above- :/mentioned lemon and orange acetals, /decyl acetate and methyl undecylen- ate and also the alpha and beta nerol : esters, enable considerable improve- ß 'ments to be effected upon certain of the eau-de-colo•e formulations re- :• sulting in a marked increase of the freshening facton This is also observed with the advent of the nardenised versions of PERFUMES terpeneless oils, from which also emerge floral tones of unsuspected sweetness, delicacy and purity.' Because of the greater importance of the Citrus odour in toilet waters, this item has been segregated from the following section. THE FRUITY GAMUT It is remarked, in the metamor- phosis of blossom fragrances to the finality of fruit odours, that the fruity gamut passes through the stages of unripe, ripe, over-ripe and even rotten and, furthermore, the size and texture of the fruit itself is important enough to receive some consideration. For instance, the large and hard fruits which contain ¾ery little juice •--such as apples and pears, may be contrasted with the smaller and softer berries and cur- rants, and also with lemons, limes, -grapefruit and oranges--all of which yield a considerable amount of fragrant juice when subjected to light pressure. The fruity nuance is of consider- able importance when one comes to give the final touches to the simula- tion of blossom fragrances and particularly in modern fantasy com- positions, but it is not always easy to klecide upon the most suitable fruity inflection to be employed. 'I:he term "fruity" is in fact too general to be of practical utility and guidance for specific purposes. It is observed, as with the spices and herbals, that various complementary and supporting groupings are pos- sible, which are more effective than 201

JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS single entities. The following sequence covers the fruity gamut from the coarse and pungent to the milder and more delicate tones: Group I : Banana-pineapple apple-pear peach-apricot. Group II: Citrus (as lemon- orange) greengage-gooseberry plum-blackberry. Group III: Grape-currants straw- berry-raspberry cherry-mulberry. The amount required for imparting the requisite light fruity nuance to perfume bases is very small. Refer- ence to the literature upon the flavottring essences indicates the complexity of these compositions, approximately two hundred esters, ethers, aldehydes, ketones, phenones and lactones being employed, the majority of which are outstanding in their aromatic strength and pungency. Consequently, for floral embellishment, considerable skill has to be exercised in order to reduce the blatancy of these compositions to a threshold minimum. In addition to the allyl and cyclo- hexanol esters and newer anthranil- ates, there have been quite a number of complex organic chemicals of flavour importance which have be- come prominent during the past decade and some of these, chiefly lactones, are remarkable in contain- ing within themselves tonal qualities hitherto only achieved by admix- tures, in small proportions, of a considerable number of materials. THE OENANTHIC NOTE The vinous or cognac fragrance, although particularly useful in forti- 202 fying the fruity adjuncts, can without exception be used to embellish any of the other adjuvants and in particu- lar the folial, verdure and herbaceous groups. The characteristic aroma is based largely upon oenanthic ether and other heptyl esters simple and substituted aliphatic anthranilates, and particularly phenylethyl an- thranilate and phenylethyl pelar- gonate. Supplementary aid is afford- ed by many of the caprylates and caprinates, also the di-methyl acetals of hexyl, heptyl and decyl aldehydes, and complex esters such as amyl capryl-caproate, from which many oenanthic shadings can be made, varying in tone, for instance, from vinous-honey to the dry, powdery. notes of grapevine leaves, thus re' turning us to the odours of the folial ß group, which headed this sequence of non-floral adjuvants. BIBLIOGRAPHY ' '471 • Glenn, J. "Floral or Fantasy fumes?" Soap, Perfumery and Cosmetics,: 1938, 245. "Exotic Wood ibid., 903, 1938. Vid• also the works of:: Piesse, Cerbelaud, Cola et al. ':•? a Anon. Mam4facturing Chemist, uary, 1939. a Cerbelaud, Ix., Branand, L., Sidi Vdlon. "Formulaire de Parfumerie.'.5• Revised, enlarged edition, 1951 Editions?•( Opira, Paris. ' Nicol, H. Pe,:fum•ry and Oil Record, March 1933 ß M'anufacluri•g ! Chemist, February 1936. Byers, J. R. "New Woody Odours." z•merican Perfz•mer, May 1947J ß Bordenca, Carl. Am'•rican P•rfumer• January 1947. , ? L'Eplattenier, J. J. "Na•denisedi Oils," Soap, P• 'fttmery and Cosm•lic$ • April 1952 Well• F.V. ibid. Iq'ovemb eili 1951 and August i952. ' '