2:2 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS (117 Daniel, D., Lederer, E., and Velluz, L., Bull. Soc. Chim. Biol., 27, 218-225 (1945). (12) Lower, E. S., Ind. Chemist, March, May, Oct., 1947. (13) Truter, E. V., •uart. Revs. (London), 5, 390404 (1951).• (14) Horn, D. H. S., Hougen, F. W., and yon Rudloff, E., Chemistry andIndustry, 106 (1953). (15) Deuel, H. J., "The Lipids," Vol. I, Interscience, 1951, p. 370. (16) Fieser, L. F., and Fieser, M., "Natural Products Related to Phenanthrene," Reinhbld, ACS Monograph No. 70, 3rd ed. (1949), p. 648-649. (17) U.S. Dept. of Agriculture, Eastern Reg. Res. Lab., Personal Communication, 1953. (18) Tiedt, J., and Truter, E. V., Chemistry andIndt•stry, 403 (Ma•, 1952). (19) Maimstrom, I. W., J. Soc. Cos. C•EM., 1, 241-245 (1949). (20) Tiedt, J., and Truter, E. V., 7./lppl. Chem., 2, 633-638 (1952). DISCUSSION M•ss BisHoP: I noticed in the literature that there is a controversy re- garding the name to be given to what you call the lanosterols and the (agnosterols) the literature suggests the name of lanol and agn01 to indi- cate that it is not ofsterol nature. MR. CONR^D: None of these are sterols. They are all triterpenes Miss BIs•-iop: Why is the name "sterol" used? MR. CONR^D: They are not, officially, chemicali•y called sterols. The trade literature has been calling them isocholestero!s•for many years that is a misnomer. Miss B•s•op: I thought the trade literature was now going over to the names I mentioned. MR. CONRAD Not to any extent. MR. SMITZERLETTER-' I noticed that there are different properties that is, chemical properties, the Australian, the American and the English lan- olin--is there any difference in the emulsification properties? MR. CONRAD: We did not check the others. We had only the ones that we worked on. The others were reported in the literature, and they did not give the emulsification properties. MR. SMITZERLETTER: Have you got a synonym for oxycholesterol? ß MR. CONRAD: There is an oxycholesterol which is a chemically oxidized cholesterol. It is our feeling that the name as used in the trade, in the lano- lin business, is •qot oxycholesterol. Oxidized cholesterol is something yqu get by degradinl,• cholesterol with oxygen. We feel that what they mean in the trade literature is any• lanolin deriva- tive. It is a trade name, not a chemical term. It was originated before they knew the structure oflanolin.
CHROMATOGRAPHY AND ITS APPLICATION TO THE ESSENTIAL OIL AND COSMETIC INDUSTRIES* ., By ALEX POST Laboratories of Polak's Frutal l/Forks, Inc., Middletown, N.Y. SINCE THE OBSERVATION by Tswett in 1906 on the separation of plant pigments on a, column containing powdered chalk, chromatography, in its many variations, has grown tremendously culminating, but not ending, with the work of the Nobel prize winners, Martin and Synge, in 1952. Its use both in research and analysis has given the investigator an insight to problems that hitherto were considered unsolvable or an- alytically impracticable. First, let us talk about some of the principles and techniques of both columnar and paper chromatography. In columnar chromatography, the resolution of organic compounds de- pends upon the difference in the adsorption characteristics of these com- ponents toward a given adsorbent. Many adsorbents have been used, such as: alumina, magnesia, charcoal, silicic acid, talc, magnesium silicate, calcium sulfate, etc. Any adsorbent that may seem of interest to an in- vestigator may be used. However, he should consult the literature to see what adsor, bents have been used previously. In ,general, a columnar chromatographic analysis is performed as follows: the sample, in a suitable solvent is adsorbed at the top of the adsorbent column. The adsorption is usually indicated by a coloring at the top of the adsorbent. Then various.:. solvents or solvent mixtures are passed through the column in order to desorb one of the components from the adsorbent. This is continued until this component is completely separated from the other components. It may then be analyzed by chemical or physical means after the zone has been separated from the column by either pushing out the entire column, cutting away the zone and eluting it, or by further washing the column with the eluting solvent until the zone is completely washed free from the column. Because of the components' selective distribution between the mobile solvent phase and the immobile adsorptive phase, the solutes migrate at * Presented at the December 10, 1953, Meeting, New York City. 23
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