JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS It is only in the very recent past, that one begins to see reasons for abandoning this age-old doctrine of veiled despair in spite of its concomit- ant message of noble consolation. We are showing an unwillingness to accept the finality of aging in general incidentally this has brought into being an entirely new medical specialtT, geriatrics, whose ultimate aim it is to find ways and means of delaying Or suspending the symptoms of age within the human body. However, we are interested here in the very special phenomenon of the aging complexion which emerges as a problem in the border area between cosmetics and endocrinology because, as is now known, hormones in general and sex hormones in particular are vitally involved both in the causation and in the control of this phenomenon. By way of a brief summary of published information the following effects o• the application of estrogens to the skin may be emphasized: 1. A demonstrable proliferation bf the epithelium takes place in the older skin whereas in the case of a younger skin (under 30) there is no histological change in the epithelial structures (1). 2. There is an alteration in the electrolyte and water metabolism which favors tissue hydration, possibly through sodium retention. 3. A vaso-dilatation occurs causing an increase in the capillary circu- lation, probably due to the release of acetylcholine which is equivalent to parasympathetic stimulation (2). 4. There is a demonstrable increase in skin elasticity (3). The utilization of these findings in the correct formulation of hormone preparations is in the domain of the cosmetic chemist so long as he is con- stantly aware of the need for the limitation of the effectiveness of his product to a capacity for producing purely local dermovascular changes. Where the character of the estrogenic substance, or its concentration, or its mode of absorption is such as to suggest the likelihood of systemic action one leaves the domain of the cosmetic chemist and enters that of the endo- crinologist or dermatologist, or both. Therefore, it would follow that the proper delineation of this border area should result from the collaboration of the latter two specialists with the cosmetic chemist. It has been assumed right along, and for entirely logical reasons, that the size of the dose alone was involved in determining the character of the effect, i.e., local or systemic, regardless of whether the estrogenic substance is asteroid hormone or an "unnatural" organic synthetic. This factor suggests great care in the formulation of hormone or estrogenic cos- metics. However, there are some recent indications to the effect that it should be possible to produce strictly dermovascular changes without systemic sequelae (4). This would have a twofold advantage: (a) it would permit the study of the cosmetic effects of higher concentrations than permitted with substances of potential systemic action, and (b) it would help to eliminate the ever-present psychological factor of a risk of

A WALK IN "NO-MAN'S LAND" 69 possible systemic action no matter how little justified its assumption would be in the case of a correctly formulated estrogenic cosmetic product. In- cidentally, these indications might well challenge the organic chemist to review the relationships between the chemical structure and the pharma- cological action of the different series of the synthetic estrogens, with the view to arriving at configurations possessed of a maximum of dermotropic and a minimum of gonadotropic action. Reverting to the question of the dosage-response relationship, there is good reason to conclude from experimental data obtained on animals that with respect to the proliferative response of the epidermis, there exists an optimal stimulative range of dosage if this range is exceeded to any marked degree the proliferative effect is inhibited, and even atrophy of the epidermis may ensue. A matter of considerable interest to the cosmetic formulatot is the effect of the vehicle. Application of the steroids in alcoholic solution favors systemic absorption organic solvents such as eucalyptol are said to be even more effective in this respect. Formulations employing substantial proportions of lanolin, petrolatum, etc., tend to suspend the tendency to systemic absorption and to enhance topical action. To touch upon another subject in our no-man's land, there is still the proverbial million (or probably a multiple) waiting for the person who solves the problem of controlling hair growth. There is no doubt that many if not all of the members of the symphony of endocrine glands participate in the quantity and quality of hair distributed over the entire body. The gonads, the thyroid, the adrenals, and the anterior pituitary are the truly important instruments in this orchestra. Let me hasten to add that there is no complete unanimity of scientific opinion here there are some authorities who believe that the growth of the hair of the scalp (also that of the eyelashes and of the eyebrows) is not affected by hormones. Yet it is true that the growth of such hair is disturbed in certain cases of endocrine disorders, and this would certainly point to endocrine factors influencing hair growth. But so-called "sexual hair," i.e., hair on the face, chest, and abdomen is definitely associated with the activity of the sex glands and while the growth of such hair in the male is considered a mark of virility, hypertrichosis in the female poses a real problem because of the multiplicity of possible causes, both physiological and pathological. Of course, rational management of hirsutism in the female should be in the hands of the endocrinology-minded dermatologist rather than fin those of the cosmetic expert. But it behooves the latter to keep his eyes open on the general developments in the matter of hair growth and of its control by endocrine factors as there are indications that this field might become one of direct interest to some members of our SOC•E•'¾. It should be added in passing that new and significant data have been