70 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS obtained also in reference to the skin effects of androgenic hormones. However, an even superficial treatment of this matter would by far ex- ceed the framework of this presentation. It is noteworthy that steroids other than those of the sex-hormone variety have an effect upon the skin. Thus local application of cortisone to the skin of the rat has been found to produce thinning of the epidermis, atrophy of the sebaceous glands and a reduction of the collagenous tissue of the dermis (5). While it may not be altogether proper to contrast ex- perimental findings obtained on animals with clinical findings obtained on human patients it is nevertheless worth noting that hydrocortisone (or Compound F) applied externally in an ointment has been found to be of definite value in the management of several skin disorders, including that of atopic dermatitis (6). This would tend to indicate a considerable dill ference between the dermal effects of cortisone and hydrocortisone re- spectively, and would suggest an inquiry into the latter's possible useful- ness for the non-pathological skin. Another matter comes to mind in the no-man's land between cosmetics and other specialties., viz., the perennial problem of acne vulgaris. This, too, is of primary interest and concern to the dermatologist. Yet, how many cases of acne actually seek competent medical advice and treatment ? Is it not true that many of the young people in their teens choose to do nothing about it, and that some eventually end up with a psychological trauma or an inferiority complex as a result of this inaction? Yet, it is known that a comparatively easy symptomatic treatment with keratolytic agents plus proper attention to diet and hygiene has been quite effective in many cases of the acne of adolescence. Here the informed cosmetic formulatot may be of real help without encroaching upon the derma- tologist's domain. While in the physician's hands the roentgen ray has been a potent tool in dealing particularly with the more recalcitrant cases of acne, ultimately its rational treatment will probably be based upon a complete compre- hension of the relationship between acne and the steroid hormones whose systemic imbalance seems to be the primary acnegenic factor. While preparations containing either natural estrogenic hormones or synthetic estrogens have been used successfully on several occasions in the management of adolescent acne some clarification appears to be needed of certain findings reported in the recent past according to which the syn- thetic estrogen diethylstilbestrol (dilaurate) was much more effective in the case of male patients (7), while natural estrogenic substance (con- jugated) seemed to give equally good results in both sexes (8). In any case here is another field of potential interest to the cosmetic expert who by skillful combination of the tried keratolytic and astringent ingredients with the right types and doses of estrogenic hormones or hormone-like

A WALK IN "NO-MAN'S LAND" 71 substances might formulate products, still substantially in the cosmetic category, which would be of great benefit to the inarticulate young suf- ferers from the disfiguring and discouraging symptoms of this widespread affliction of adolescence. Here, too, there is work to be done by the organic chemist in the synthesis of more effective anti-acne compounds, with the tried and proved synthetic estrogens as a point of departure. In roaming in this no-man's land of ours we now come upon another rather unexpected border area, viz., between--of all things--meteorology and cosmetics. Yes, it is true, the beauty of milady's complexion de- pends considerably upon the weather. It's all there, well documented with tables and charts and weather data (9) and the famed English com- plexion which thrives in the moist climate of the British Isles is no longer either a myth or a pretense. It now appears that the degree of moisture in the air has a direct effect upon the smoothness, the softness, and the suppleness of the skin, the very qualities which the cosmetic chemist is bound, upon an unsworn oath, to uphold, to protect, and to defend. Of course, as to the weather, the situation has changed somewhat since Mark Twain's time when everybody talked about it, but nobody did anything about it. Nowadays, we are doing quite a bit about the weather, what with our elaborate heating and air-conditioning systems in homes and in offices, and even in our automobiles. Except for rain making, we still cannot manipulate the weather outdoors, but we may be able to do this, too, some day, particularly if spurred on by the cogent need of protecting the beauty of our women. But there is one point which we do neglect in most cases of indoor weather control, and that is proper humidification. No matter how comfortable we may be in a warm room when it is freezing outdoors, or in a cool office when outside the asphalt melts, we usually fail to insure an optimum of humidity. Here the cosmetic chemist has stepped into the breach effectively by formulating a series of creams and lotions which by virtue of their humectant character will help prevent the rapid drying of the skin that would supervene if the •elative humidity were low enough to sneak up and steal the precious moisture from the unwary com- plexion. And so, in addition to the dermatologist and the endocrinologist the cosmetic chemist should now be on speaking terms with the meteorolo- gist and incidentally with the heating and air-conditioning engineer, by way of co-ordinating all efforts to protect feminine pulchritude through the establishment of proper environmental climatic conditions. Indeed, moisture is the thing, these days. It seems to be even more im- portant for the skin's suppleness than saturation with oils and unguents, rare or otherwise (10). The ubiquitous H20 is coming into its own, at last. But the cosmetic chemist's art and skill are needed to make it do its best work on milady's behalf. With the aid of hormone cosmetics her skin retains water from within, and with humectant cosmetics it is safeguarded