38 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS EYE IRRITATION In recent years considerable attention has been paid to the possibility ot eye injury resulting from the use of shampoos, and Draize (7) has rated a number of detergents with regard to eye irritation in rabbits. In these tests a coconut fatty acid diethanolamide (Ninol 2012) was found safe at a concentration of 20%, whereas many other anionics and non-ionics caused injury even at 10%. Although the alkylolamides in general seem to be relatively low in irritation, it should be emphasized that the finished shampoo should always be checked to make sure that other components present do not act to synergize the irritating power. BIBLIOGRAPHY (1) Kritchevsky, W., U.S. Patent No. 2,089,212, Re. 21,530. (2) Barnett, G., and Powers, D. H., J. Soc. COSMETIC CHEM., 2, 219 (1951). (3) La Fleur, K. S., ,4rn. Dyestuff Reptr., 39, 385 (1950). (4) Armstrong, L. J., et al., [bid., 37, 596 (1948). (5) Vitale, P. T., and Leonard, R. S., U.S. Patent No. 2,607,740. (6) Richardson, A. S., [bid., 2,383,737. (7) Draize, J. H., and Kelley, E. A., Proc. Sci. Sect., Toilet Goods ,4ssoc., No. 17, 1, (1952). DISCUSSION Mr. FISHBACH: What proportion of diethanolamide is there in the final product ? What is the percentage of the final amide? DR. SANDERS: Well, our tests would indicate that there is probably in the neighborho6d of about 75 per cent. It depends upon the product, though. Some are condensed further than others, but it would be in that range. You see, to make them water soluble, there has to be a proportion of free diethanolamine in some cases for viscosity purposes, so the figure is rather flexible, but it runs in that neighborhood. MR. FiSHBACH: Has any work been done on the pure amides? DR. SANDERS: We have attempted to do some work along, that line by synthesizing pure amides, using pure acyl chlorides, and so forth. That work is still in progress, but the results we have to date do not indicate there are any properties that we have been able to find that are sub- stantially different from those that could be obtained from a commer- cial monoethanolamide, which does not have an excess of free 'amine. In other words, making a pure amide in our experience does not give a product radically different from what we are making by the present process. • MEMBER: What was the pH of the alkylolamides that you used in' the first charts ? -. DR. SANDERS: All the alkylolamides have approximately the same pH, due to the fact that they are made from alkylolamines--that is, about 9.2. Of course, in shampoo formulations it is possible to reduce this.

THE EFFECT OE PHYSICAL FACTORS ON THE FORMATION OF COSMETIC EMULSIONS* ,, By G. L. STANKO, W. C. FIEDLER, and G. J. SPEP-.ANDI0• Purdue University School of Pharmacy, West Lafayelte, Ind"aria EMULSIONS, and particularly those of a cosmetic type and appearance, are becoming increasingly popular in the fields of cosmetics and medicine. The modern emulsion-type lotion is used, in one manner or another, by most women, and in many instances the practicing physician who wishes to prescribe, dermatological medication utilizes the emulsified lotion as a vehicle because it presents topical medication in a most attractive form. Certainly we all know that cosmetics are, without question, th'e "eli. re" of pharmaceutical preparations. Probably the least understood area of cosmetics is the field of emulsion technology, although paradoxically, cosmetic emulsions are the most popular type of lotions on the market. This is such a complex subject that I hesi- tate to enter into a discussion on the theoretical aspects of emulsions, par- ticularly when our main •interest is the practical application of good phar- macy to their preparation. The entire area of emulsions is still to be ex- plored, and in,my own experiences, the only positive thing about emul- sions that I have found is their degree of unpredictability. Since an emul- sion is a system containing normally immiscible substances, it can be ex- pected to present more problems in its manufacture and to have its prepa- ration more easily affected by minor factors than other types of cosmetic preparations. One of the most important problems the cosmetic manufac- turer faces is that of stability and shelf life of his products since, more often than not he must supply and ship his merchandise to different cli- mates and subject it to many unfavorable conditions, both in transport and in storage. From the standpoint ' of the consumer, there are perhaps three properties of emulsified lotions which are most important: viscosity or thickness, greasiness, and stickiness. While these properties can be controlled to a great extent by proper formulation, they can also be affected by the man- ner in which the product is made and of these factors, viscosity may ap- * Presented at the December 10, 1953, Meeting, New York City.