A WALK IN "NO-MAN'S LAND" 69 possible systemic action no matter how little justified its assumption would be in the case of a correctly formulated estrogenic cosmetic product. In- cidentally, these indications might well challenge the organic chemist to review the relationships between the chemical structure and the pharma- cological action of the different series of the synthetic estrogens, with the view to arriving at configurations possessed of a maximum of dermotropic and a minimum of gonadotropic action. Reverting to the question of the dosage-response relationship, there is good reason to conclude from experimental data obtained on animals that with respect to the proliferative response of the epidermis, there exists an optimal stimulative range of dosage if this range is exceeded to any marked degree the proliferative effect is inhibited, and even atrophy of the epidermis may ensue. A matter of considerable interest to the cosmetic formulatot is the effect of the vehicle. Application of the steroids in alcoholic solution favors systemic absorption organic solvents such as eucalyptol are said to be even more effective in this respect. Formulations employing substantial proportions of lanolin, petrolatum, etc., tend to suspend the tendency to systemic absorption and to enhance topical action. To touch upon another subject in our no-man's land, there is still the proverbial million (or probably a multiple) waiting for the person who solves the problem of controlling hair growth. There is no doubt that many if not all of the members of the symphony of endocrine glands participate in the quantity and quality of hair distributed over the entire body. The gonads, the thyroid, the adrenals, and the anterior pituitary are the truly important instruments in this orchestra. Let me hasten to add that there is no complete unanimity of scientific opinion here there are some authorities who believe that the growth of the hair of the scalp (also that of the eyelashes and of the eyebrows) is not affected by hormones. Yet it is true that the growth of such hair is disturbed in certain cases of endocrine disorders, and this would certainly point to endocrine factors influencing hair growth. But so-called "sexual hair," i.e., hair on the face, chest, and abdomen is definitely associated with the activity of the sex glands and while the growth of such hair in the male is considered a mark of virility, hypertrichosis in the female poses a real problem because of the multiplicity of possible causes, both physiological and pathological. Of course, rational management of hirsutism in the female should be in the hands of the endocrinology-minded dermatologist rather than fin those of the cosmetic expert. But it behooves the latter to keep his eyes open on the general developments in the matter of hair growth and of its control by endocrine factors as there are indications that this field might become one of direct interest to some members of our SOC•E•'¾. It should be added in passing that new and significant data have been

70 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS obtained also in reference to the skin effects of androgenic hormones. However, an even superficial treatment of this matter would by far ex- ceed the framework of this presentation. It is noteworthy that steroids other than those of the sex-hormone variety have an effect upon the skin. Thus local application of cortisone to the skin of the rat has been found to produce thinning of the epidermis, atrophy of the sebaceous glands and a reduction of the collagenous tissue of the dermis (5). While it may not be altogether proper to contrast ex- perimental findings obtained on animals with clinical findings obtained on human patients it is nevertheless worth noting that hydrocortisone (or Compound F) applied externally in an ointment has been found to be of definite value in the management of several skin disorders, including that of atopic dermatitis (6). This would tend to indicate a considerable dill ference between the dermal effects of cortisone and hydrocortisone re- spectively, and would suggest an inquiry into the latter's possible useful- ness for the non-pathological skin. Another matter comes to mind in the no-man's land between cosmetics and other specialties., viz., the perennial problem of acne vulgaris. This, too, is of primary interest and concern to the dermatologist. Yet, how many cases of acne actually seek competent medical advice and treatment ? Is it not true that many of the young people in their teens choose to do nothing about it, and that some eventually end up with a psychological trauma or an inferiority complex as a result of this inaction? Yet, it is known that a comparatively easy symptomatic treatment with keratolytic agents plus proper attention to diet and hygiene has been quite effective in many cases of the acne of adolescence. Here the informed cosmetic formulatot may be of real help without encroaching upon the derma- tologist's domain. While in the physician's hands the roentgen ray has been a potent tool in dealing particularly with the more recalcitrant cases of acne, ultimately its rational treatment will probably be based upon a complete compre- hension of the relationship between acne and the steroid hormones whose systemic imbalance seems to be the primary acnegenic factor. While preparations containing either natural estrogenic hormones or synthetic estrogens have been used successfully on several occasions in the management of adolescent acne some clarification appears to be needed of certain findings reported in the recent past according to which the syn- thetic estrogen diethylstilbestrol (dilaurate) was much more effective in the case of male patients (7), while natural estrogenic substance (con- jugated) seemed to give equally good results in both sexes (8). In any case here is another field of potential interest to the cosmetic expert who by skillful combination of the tried keratolytic and astringent ingredients with the right types and doses of estrogenic hormones or hormone-like