254 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS nothing he cannot do in the way of providing elegant and unusual products that will excite the fancy of the consumer, heal her chafing, remove wrinkles, odors, and the symptoms of aging, paint her and perfume her. Yet in the tempo of modern living, each chemist is constantly required to outdo himself and his neighbors. New variations in old products are always needed. At one time, a shampoo had to appear sparkling clear, and it had to clean the hair. That was all. Then it became necessary for the shampoo to leave the hair glossy, silky and easy to comb. But that was still not suflScient. The shampoo must now modify the hair so that the hair will retain a curl between shampooings. The shampoo should also color the hair. A recent innovation is the shampoo that does not sting or smart the eyes. It is reasonable to inquire as to the contribution, if any, that the sugar esters can make to cosmetics. The answers will not be forthcoming for many years, not until a number of laboratories have thoroughly evaluated them and they have been tested clinically and in the field. The best that can be done at this time is to give some very preliminary observations. 1. The sugar esters are a new class of nonionic emulsifiers. Some are water-soluble, others are oil-soluble. We have used them to prepare lubricating creams, vanishing creams, cleansing creams and lotions, hair lotions, hand lotions, baby lotions, ointments and toothpastes. Stable products have been prepared with a minimum of effort, indicating that they are good emulsifying agents for use in cosmetic products. 2. As a class, the sugar esters are nonroamers and diflSculties are generally not encountered with beating air into the creams during manu- facture, or with lotions foaming during filling or with lotions and creams lathering during application. 3. The sugar esters are nontoxic. Mammoth doses have been fed to rats without ill effect. 4. The sugar esters appear to have an extremely low order of irritation. A 10 per cent solution of sucrose stearate applied to the eyes does not sting or smart. Intravenous injection of aqueous solutions of the sugar esters has been reported not to produce any irritation or redness. It has been reported that two subjects with dermatitis, allegedly due to soap, used detergent bars made from the sugar ester and their dermatitis cleared. However, extensive clinical studies will be required to establish that the sugar esters are completely nonirritating and nonsensitizing. 5. The sugar esters are tasteless and odorless. When used in prepara- tions involving taste, such as toothpastes, mouthwashes and lipsticks, they do not adversely affect ttavo• ing. 6. Much more subtle than any of the above is the feel which they impart to cosmetic products. The sugar esters do not introduce any tacky sensation, but tend to contribute a soft, velvety feel.

THE SUGAR ESTERS IN COSMETICS 255 In the future we may expect studies involving penetration through the skin, possibilities of contributing to the energy level of blood in capillaries under the skin and thereby giving a healthful appearance to the skin, their effect on the moisture content and lubricity of aged skin and their effect on the penetration of other active agents through the skin. APPICATIONS OF SUCROSE ESTERS INVOLVI•rG ZERO TOXICITY Because the sucrose esters are essentially wholesome foods and they are probably completely free of toxicity, many applications are possible which would not be permissible with the polyoxyethylene derived surfactants. 1. Digestion of fats is a serious problem for premature infants and many aged persons. Emulsification of fats by sugar esters may help to solve this problem. 2. The feeding of detergents to poultry to increase the production of meat and eggs by improving the digestibility of rations has yielded mixed results. The use of a completely nontoxic emulsifier may be the answer. 3. The widespread use of the sugar esters may eliminate present sewage disposal problems, since the sugar esters are foods and do not inhibit the growth of bacteria. 4. Many medical conditions are said to require the introduction of an immediate source of energy into the blood stream. The answer may lie in the use of sugar esters or invert sugar esters. SUMMARY The sugar esters are, indeed, new. They have been made in the labora- tory and they have been prepared in a pilot plant operation. Our evalua- tion has been only a very preliminary one. However, because their po- tential usefulness is so great, and their cost is low, there is little doubt that they will become commercially available. Potential applications include their use in heavy duty detergents. They can serve the food industry for the washing of fruits and vegetables and processing equipment, as bread softeners and as emulsifiers in margarine, as anticaking and antifoaming agents and as rehydrating agents for dehydrated foods. They can serve the pharmaceutical industrv as nontoxic, nonirritating emulsifiers of drugs to be taken orally and intravenously. They may be useful as demulsifiers in the oil fields. They are a natural for the cosmetic industry. In addi- tion to all of these applications involving surface activity, other types of sugar esters are being prepared which appear useful as drying oils, water- soluble gums, protective coatings and plastics. We believe that there is a bright future for the sugar esters. ztcknowledgment: The investigation described herein was supported by the Sugar Research Foundation, Inc., New York, N.Y.