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j. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 33,203-215 (July 1982) The effect of grooming on the hair cuticle SUSAN E. KELLY and V.N.E. ROBINSON, School of Textile Technology, University of New South [Vales, P.O. Box 1, Kensington NS[V, 2033, Australia Received July 20, 1981. Synopsis A study has been carried out on the effects of normal grooming on the cuticle of human hair. The grooming processes studied included shampooing, wet combing, wet brushing, and towel drying. The experiments were performed on tresses of hair and also included "on-head" studies. The results were assessed using scanning electron microscopy techniques. The data indicate that all of the damage normally observed can be entirely due to the grooming process. Sharnpooing and towel drying were shown to inflict some damage, but the process of wet combing or brushing greatly increased the damage. Brushing was shown to be more damaging than combing. The use of a conditioner was shown to significantly decrease this damage by reducing the friction forces generated in the hair during combing. INTRODUCTION Human hair consists of three main components: the cuticle, the cortex, and the medulla (1). Figure 1 shows transverse cross-sections of human hair which clearly illustrate the three components. The cuticle, which comprises the outermost layer, forms a protective sheath around the cortex. When the hair first emerges from the follicle the cuticle consists of between six and ten overlapping scales (1). These are clearly visible in Figure 1. As the hair grows away from the scalp it is subjected to various outside influences which can have a damaging effect on the cuticle. The scales, which are at first smooth and rounded, become rough and jagged as pieces are eroded away. If the hair is allowed to grow long enough and is sufficiently exposed to these degradative processes, then eventually complete removal of the cuticle layer will occur, leaving the cortex of the hair exposed (2-5). The unprotected cortex will then split and break very easily, which can lead to the appearance of split ends and often render the hair *'unmanageable." The progressive stages of damage to the cuticle are illustrated by the scanning electron micrographs of hair from root to tip given in Figure 2. The gradual erosion of cuticle scales has been attributed to various factors including aging, exposure to sunlight, handling, and the grooming processes to which hair is subjected which include shampooing, drying, brushing, and combing (1-6). Hair can also be damaged chemically by the application of treatments such as bleaching, coloring, and permanent waving which modify the hair (7), and it is likely that these treatments leave the hair more susceptible to further damage. 203