HAIR DAMAGE 285 (28) (29) (30) (31) (32) (33) (34) (35) (36) (37) (38) (39) (40) (41) (42) (43) (44) (45) (46) (47) (48) (49) (50) (51) (52) (53) (54) (55) (56) (57) J. G. Gould and R. L. Sneath, Electron microscopy-image analysis: Quantification of ultrastructural changes in hair fiber cross sections as a result of cosmetic treatment, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 36, 53 (1985). C. Robbins, Infrared analysis of oxidized keratins, Text. Res. J., 37, 811 (1967). R. C. Shah and R. S. Gandhi, Infrared analysis of oxidized keratins, Text. Res. J., 38, 874 (1968). H. Alter and M. Bit-Alkhas, Infrared analysis of oxidized keratins, Text. Res. J., 39, 479 (1969). J. Strassburger and M. M. Breuer, Quantitative Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy of oxidized hair, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 36, 61 (1985). P. Berth and G. Reese, Veranderung des haarkeratins durch kosmetische behandlung und naturliche umwelteinflusse, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 15, 659 (1964). J. A. Faucher and E. D. Goddard, Influence of surfactants on the sorption of a cationic polymer by keratinous substrates, J. Colloid Interface Sci., 55 (2), 313 (1976). K. Lees and F. F. Elsworth, Alkali solubility test for detecting the degree of fiber damage in wool, J. Dyers and Colourists, 68, 207 (1952). J. A. Swift and A. C. Brown, The critical determination of fine changes in the surface architecture of human hair due to cosmetic treatment, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 23, 695 (1972). V. N. E. Robinson, A study of damaged hair, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 27, 155, (1976). Y. K. Kamath, S. B. Hornby, and H.-D. Weigman, Mechanical and fractographic behavior of Negroid hair, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 35, 21 (1984). J. Chao, A. E. Newsom, I. M. Wainwright, and R. A. Mathews, Comparison of the effects of some reactive chemicals on the proteins of whole hair, cuticle and cortex, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 30, 401 (1979). C. Robbins and C. Kelly, Amino acid analysis of cosmetically altered hair, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 20, 555 (1969). L. J. Wolfram, "The Reactivity of Human Hair. A Review," in Hair Research, C. E. Orfanos, W. Montagna, and G. Stuttgen, Eds. (Springer-Verlag, New York, 1981). E. O. P. Thompson and I. J. O'Donnel, Comparison of the completeness of oxidation with paracetic and performic acid, Aust. J. Biol. Sci., 12, 490 (1959). J. G. Gumprecht, K. Patel, and R. P. Bono, Effectiveness of reduction and oxidation in acid and alkaline permanent waving, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 28, 717 (1977). D. W. Felix, M. A. McDowall, and H. Eyring, The differential thermal analysis of natural and modified wool and mohair, Text. Res. J., 33, 465 (1963). R. A. O'Connel and M. K. Walden, Influence of ionizing radiations on wool fiber properties, Text. Res. J., 27, 516 (1957). P. Berth and G. Reese, Alteration of hair keratin by cosmetic processing and natural environr•ental influences, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 15, 659 (1964). R. Beyak, G. S. Kass, and C. F. Meyer, Elasticity and tensile properties of human hair. II. Light radiation effects, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 22, 667 (1971). F. Joubert, D. P. Botes, and T. Haylett, The action of ultraviolet light on wool, J. Afr. Chem. Inst., 17, 44 (1964). J. I. Dunlop and C. H. Nicholls, Electron spin resonance studies of UV irradiated keratin and related proteins, Photochem. Photobiol., 4, 891 (1965). A. Shatkay and I. Michaeli, Electron paramagnetic resonance study of wool irradiated by ultra-violet and visible light, Radiat. Res., 43, 485 (1970). M. M. Bhan and A.D. Sule, The effect of sunlight on canary-stained wools,J. Text. Inst. Trans., 58, 46 (1967). R. A. Luse and A.D. McLaren, Mechanism of enzyme inactivation by ultraviolet light and the photochemistry of amino acids at 2537 A, Photochem. Photobiol., 2, 343 (1963). P. Alexander and J. T. Lett, "Effects of Ionizing Radiations on Biological Macromolecules," in Com- prehensive Biochemistry, Vol. 27.' Photobiology, Ionizing Radiation, M. Florkin and E. H. Slotz Eds. (American Elsevier, New York, 1967), p. 267. H. Zahn and G. Blankenburg, Action of alcohol-water mixtures on wool, Text. Res. J., 34, 176 (1964). D. Lu and M. Breuer, The tensile properties of hair fibers in 1-propanol water mixtures, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 28, 695 (1977). M. Feughelman and A. R. Haly, Interaction between perfluorooctanoic acid and the fibrous keratin and collagen, Blochim. Biophys. Acta, 43, 550 (1960). H. Zahn, W. Stein, and G. Blankenburg, The influence of surfactants on the physical properties of keratin fibers, Fette, Seij•n, Anstrichm, 70(10), 757 (1968).

286 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS (58) (59) (60) (61) (62) (63) (64) (65) (66) (67) (68) (69) (70) (71) (72) (73) (74) (75) (76) (77) (78) (79) (80) (81) (82) (83) (84) (85) (86) A. Kantouch and S. H. A. Fattach, Oxidation of wool with chlorine and some chlorinated com- pounds, Appl. Polym. Symp., 18, 317 (1971). P. Alexander, R. F. Hudson, and M. Fox, The reaction of oxidizing agents with wool. 1. The division of cystine into two fractions of widely differing reactivities, Blochem. J., 46, 27 (1950). P. Alexander, D. Gough, and R. F. Hudson, The reaction of oxidizing agents with wool. 3. The influence of the morphology on the rate of reaction, Biochem. J., 48, 20 (1951). P. Alexander and D. Gough, The reaction of oxidizing agents with wool. 4. The reactivity of tyro- sine, Biochem. J., 48, 504 (1951). P. Alexander, M. Fox, and R. F. Hudson, The reaction of oxidizing agents with wool. 5. The oxidation products of the disulphide bond and the formation of a sulphonamide in the pepride chain, Blochem. J., 49, 129 (1951). G. Valk, Reaction between chlorine and wool proteins, Proc. 3rd Int. Wool Text. Res. Conf., Paris, 2, 371 (1965). K. E. Hall and L. J. Wolfram, Application of the theory of hydrophobic bonds to hair treatments, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 28, 231 (1977). W. I. Patterson, W. B. Geiger, L. R. Mizell, and M. Harris, Role of cystine in the structure of the fibrous protein, wool, J. Res. Nat. Bur. Stand., 27, 839 (1941). R. N. Reddie and C. H. Nicholls, Some reactions between wool and formaldehyde, Text. Res. J., 41, 841 (1971). R. N. Reddie and C. H. Nichols, Absorption of formaldehyde by wool, Text. Res. J., 41, 303 (1971). M. Feughelman and I. C. Watt, Torsional properties of chemically modified wool fibers, Text. Res. J., 36, 849 (1966). G. W. Madaras and J. B. Speakman, The formation of polymers in wool, J. Soc. Dyers and Col., 70, 112 (1954). L. j. Wolfram and j. B. Speakman, The formation of polymers in wool, J. Soc. Dyers and Col., 77, 477 (1961). See for example S. Misra and G. Sahu, Graft copolymerizarion of methyl methacrylate onto wool using thallium (III) ions as initiator, J. Appl. Polym. Sci., 27, 4547 (1982), and the references cited therein. L. J. Wolfram, Modification of hair by internal deposition of polymers,J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 20, 539 (1969). C. Robbins, R. Crawford, D. W. McNeil, J. Nachtigal, and G. Anzuino, Polymerization into human hair, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 25, 407 (1974). C. Robbins and G. Anzuino, Ionic reactions of kerarin fibers containing synthetic polymer, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 22, 579 (1971). G. Anzuino and C. Robbins, Reactions of metal salts with human hair containing synthetic polymer, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 22, 179 (1971). G. F. Dasher and R. A. Wall, Retarding damage to hair on the head with polimerizable vinyl monomers in bleaching or dyeing processes, U.S. Patent 3,472,604, assigned to Clairol, Inc., 1969. R. A. Wall and P. Fainer, Treating damaged living human hair with water soluble polimerizable vinyl monomers, U.S. Patent 3,472,243, assigned to Clairol, Inc., 1969. G. Anzuino, Modification of reduced keratinous substrates with a vinyl polymer, U.S. Patent 3,676,550, assigned to Colgate-Palmolive Co., 1972. G. Gajnos, private communication. M. Wong, private communication. J. Jachowicz and L. J. Wolfram, Hair treatment composition, U.S. Patent 4,588,760, assigned to Clairol, Inc., 1986. M. Breuer, Hair setting and bodying composition and method, U.S. Patent 4,278,659, assigned to Gillette Co., 1981. L. Wolfram and I. Levy, private communication. J. A. Maclaren and B. Milligan, Wool Science: The Chemical Reactivity of the Wool Fiber (Science Press, Australia, 1981), p. 238. R. P. Stadnick, Hair strengthening and permanent waving composition, European Patent 0 159 628, assigned to Revlon, Inc., 1985. A. Shansky, Hair straightening through silylarion: A preliminary investigation, Cosmetic Technology, March 1982, p. 32.