314 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS MATERIALS SAMPLES OF HAIR All fiber samples were commercially blended virgin brown hair purchased from DeMeo Brothers, New York. The hair was precleaned with a nonionic surfactant, Triton X-100, and thoroughly rinsed under deionized water. Hair samples were then soaked in three 500-ml water baths for 15 min each to ensure a complete removal of any residual surfactant. Hair swatches were dried at 37øC. SURFACTANTS AND POLYMERS Sodium lauryl ether sulfate with two moles of ethoxylation (SLES-2) was a commercial sample in the form of 25% aqueous solution, obtained from Rhone-Poulence. Cocam- idopropyl betaine (CAPB) was in the form of 35% aqueous solution with NaC1 content 5.6% maximum, and was obtained from Witco Chemical Company. Cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine (CAPHS, Lonzaine CS) was obtained from Lonza. Isolaureth-6 (Tergitol TMN-6, 90% aqueous solution), octoxynol-10 (octylphenoxypolyethoxyethanol, Triton X-100) and octoxynol-40 (Triton X-405, 70% aqueous solution) were obtained from Union Carbide. Cationic polymer, guar gum 2-hydroxy-3-(trimethylammonium)-propyl ether, chloride (Jaguar C-17) was obtained from Rhone-Poulenc. The polymers under the tradenames of Merquat 100, 550, and 280 were obtained from Calgon Corp. and were used without additional purification. Cationic surfactant, Bis(amidopropyl-N,N-dimethyl-N- ethylammonium ethosulfate (Schercoquat DAS, 90% aqueous solution) was supplied by Scher Chemicals, Inc. SHAMPOOS Shampoos were both commercial formulations or prototypes prepared from commer- cially available raw materials. Qualitatively, the compositions are given below: Shampoo A. Water, sodium C 14-C16 olefin sulfonate, lauramide DEA, cocarnidopropyl betaine, fragrance, quaternium-60 (lanolin/isostearamidopropyl ethyl dimethyl ammo- nium ethosulfate), citric acid, sodium chloride, ethyl hexanediol, DMDM hydantoin, disodium EDTA, FD&C Yellow No. 5, FD&C Blue No. 1, FD&C Red No. 33. Shampoo B. Water, SLES, SLS, cocamidopropyl betaine, lauramide DEA, ricinoleami- dopropyl ethyldimonium ethosulfate (0.5%), panthenol, dimethicone copolyol, amodimethicone (and) tallowtrimonium chloride (and) nonoxynol-10, polyquaternium- 11, mica (and) TiO2, citric acid, fragrance, DMDMH and iododpropynyl butylcarbam- ate, Lonza-Glydant Plus. Shampoo C. Sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate, guar hydroxypropyltrimo- nium chloride, PEG-15 tallow polyamine, cocamide MEA, cetearyl alcohol and cete- areth-20, glycol distearate, methylparaben, DMDM hydantoin, sodium sulfite, citric acid, deionized water, panthenol, fragrance, DEA methoxycinnamate. Shampoo D. Water, sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate, cocamidopropyl be- taine, glycol stearate, lauramide DEA, dimethicone copolyol, guar hydroxypropyltri-

SHAMPOO ANALYSIS 315 monium chloride, hydrogenated tallow betaine, hydrolized silk protein, myristic acid, glycerin, PPG-28-buteth-25, fragrance, citric acid, trisodium HEDTA, methylpara- ben, propylparaben, methylchloroisothiazolinone, methylisothiazolinone, FD&C Yel- low No. 6 and No. 5. Shampoo E. Water, TEA-lauryl sulfate, cocamide MEA, polyquaternium-7 (Merquat 550), cocamide DEA, glycol distearate, coco-betaine, hexylene glycol, disodium monostearylsulfosuccinate, fragrance, disodium EDTA, benzophenone-4, DMDM hy- dantoin, polyquaternium-10, butylparaben, ethylparaben, methylparaben, propylpara- ben. Shampoo F. Water, ammonium lauryl sulfate, ammonium laureth sulfate, cocamide DEA, glycol distearate, fragrance, cyclomethicone, ammonium xylene sulphonate, tricetylammonium chloride, hydrolized collagen, panthenol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl al- cohol, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, sodium citrate, citric acid, D&C Yellow No. 8, FD&C Yellow No. 6, methylchloroisothiazolinone, methylisothiazolinone. Shampoo G. Water, ammonium lauryl sulfate, ammonium laureth sulfate, dimethicone, glycol distearate, ammonium xylenesulphonate, fragrance, cocamide MEA, tricetylam- monium chloride, xanthan gum, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, sodium chloride, methylchloroisothiazolinone, methylisothiazolinone, sodium citrate, citric acid, D&C Green No. 8, D&C Yellow No. 10, FD&C Blue No. 1. Shampoo H. Water, sodium laureth sulfate, cocamidopropyl betaine, dimethicone, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, laureth-4, laureth-23, fragrance, carbomer 940, BHT, methylparaben, propylparaben, sodium chloride, diazolidinyl urea, sodium hy- droxide, mica, titanium dioxide. Shampoo I. Water, ammonium laureth sulfate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate, lauramide DEA, dihydrogenated tallow phthalic acid amide, dimethicone, distearyldimonium chloride, fragrance, dicetyldimonium chloride, PEG-2 oleammo- nium chloride, propylene glycol, cyclomethicone, DMDM hydantoin, methylchlor- oisothiazolinone, methylisothiazolinone, tetrasodium EDTA, ammonium xylene- sulfonate, FD&C Yellow No. 6. Shampoo J. Water ammonium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate, cocamidopropyl betaine, ricinoleamidopropylethyldimonium ethosulfate (1%), lauramide DEA, di- methicone copolyol, citric acid, dl panthenol, DEA methoxycinnamate, methylparaben, Glydant Plus (DMDMH and iodopropyl butylcarbamate), disodium EDTA, fragrance. Shampoo K. Water, ammonium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate, cocamidopropyl betaine, lauramide DEA, dimethicone copolyol, citric acid, dl panthenol, DEA meth- oxycinnamate, methylparaben, Glydant Plus (DMDMH and iodopropyl butylcarba- mate), disodium EDTA, fragrance. Shampoo L. Water, trideceth-7 carboxylic acid, cocoamphocarboxypropionate, lauramide DEA, glycol stearate, polyquaternium-10, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hy- drolized milk protein, honey, lecithin, lemon extract, jojoba oil, wheat germ oil, Balsam Canada, fennel extract, sage extract, yarrow extract, polysorbate 20, sorbitan laurate, propylene glycol stearate, propylene glycol laurate, fragrance, citric acid, di- sodium EDTA, methylchloroisothiazolinone, methylisothiazolinone, methylparaben, propylparaben.