j. Cosmet. sci., 55,481-483 (September/October) 2004 Abstracts International Journal of Cosmetic Science Vol. 26, No. 3, 2004* Physicochemical Factors Affecting The Rapid Bactericidal Efficacy Of The Phenolic Antibacticeral Triclosan' Timothy J. Taylor, E. Phil Seitz, Priscilla Fox, George E. Fischlcr, Janice L. Fuls, and Patrick L. Weidner Dial Center for Innovation, 15101 North Scottsdale Road, Scottsdale, Arizona 85254 The antimicrobial activity of triclosan (TCS 2,4,4'- trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether) in aqueous solutions is shown to directly depend upon two key physicochemical parameters: percent saturation and saturation solubility. Saturated solutions of TCS in water, in water-propylene glycol mixtures, and in aqueous surfactant systems are shown to effect rapid, potent bacterial reductions (e.g., 41og•o reduction of Staphylococcus aureus in 15 s contact time in a time kill suspension test). In surfactant solutions, increasing the suffactant:TCS ratio causes a decrease in antibacterial efficacy, consistent with a model for miceliar solubilization where the micelle binding constant, g(: X), increases with decreasing TCS C w concentration in the micelles (X), resulting in decreased concentration of bioavailable TCS in the water (continuous) phase (c,•). The rapid and potent reductions of bacteria reported here were surprising and support the existence of a non-specific mode of action for TCS, such as gross membrane disruption, in addition to the specific modes of action reported by others. Original Semiological Standardized Standardized Evaluation of Stratum Corneum Hydratrion By Diagnoskin© Stripping Sample P. Gasser*, L. Peno-Mazzarino*, E. Lati*, and B. Djian# *Centre de Recherches Biologiques et d'Expdrimentation Cutandes, Laboratoire BIO-EC, Clamart France #Dermatologist 54, avenue Kleber 75116 Paris, France In a normal and healthy skin, the regular elimination of the superficial comeocytes, called desquamation, is a fundamental physiological process intended to protect the barrier function of the skin. This invisible loss of corneocytes, individually or by small groups, is incessantly compensated by the divisions of the proliferative layer and the upward cellular maturation in order to maintain the harmonious renewal of the epidermis and the integrity of the stratum corneunz The harmony of this desquamation process is intimately conditioned by a sufficient hydration of the stratum corneum: (i) An abnormal desquamation leads to a disruption of the water barrier function and consequently to a dehydration tendency of the stratum corncure, and (ii) a cutaneous dryness (whatever the cause) is able to disturb the desquamation process. Protecting the water content of the stratum corneum has always been a major preoccupation of the cosmetic industry scientists. Consequently, the moisturizing properties of a cosmetic product are objectively measured by various explorations directly targeted on the hydration (corneometry) and on the * These abstracts appear as they were originally published. They have not been edited by the Journal of Cosmetic Science. 481

482 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE lcvcl of the water barrier function (Trans-Epidermal-Water- Loss-TEWL- measurements), which depends directly on the skin hydration state. This intimate linkage of the desquamation process and the water content of the stratum corneum enable us to suggest an indirect assessment of the hydration from a direct study of the desquamation by examining a skin stripping sample (D-Squames ©) by an optical microscope (linked to a computer). Wc will describe this already known technique and mainly its new and unpublished semiological exploitation, named Diagnoskin ©, whose advantages are its simplicity and its reproducibility particularly interesting in thc case of sequential appraisal of dcrmatological or cosmetic treatments. Dielectric Spectroscopy Of Concentrated Cosmetic W/O- Emulsions-Possibilities To Distinguish Product Changes Caused By Coalescence, Sedimentation And Variation of Ingredients change the results for the examined emulsions. Quantitative information about mean droplet size is possible with calibration. Because of their different physical forci, theology and dielectric spcctroscopy complement each other in high scnsitive detection ofcoalcscence. In contrast to the mechanical properties of W/O-cmulsion, dielectric spectroscopy givcs additional information concerning some reasons of change in emulsion structure. Mechanism like sedimentation and coalescence can be distinguished and the phase where changes take place (oil phase or water phase) can be located. The latter is possible by a new parameter - the correlation between maximum of dielectric loss 5"(fR) and the relaxation frequency fR. Their correlation can be described by a simple power law. By coupling theology and dielectric spectroscopy, an improvement in fast emulsion development and production control may be achieved without losing the advantage of a quick and easy measurement procedure. S. Friedrich •*, R. Brummer •, K.-P. Wittern •, B. Hochstein* • Beiersdorf AG, Rheologie/Thermoanalytik, Unnastr. 48, 20245 Hamburg, *Institut fiir Mechanische Verfahrenstechnik und Mcchanik, Universit•it Karlsruhe (TH), Kaiserstr. 12, 76131 Karlsruhe A quick result whether a newly developed cosmetic W/O- emulsion shows constant sensory behavior (stable) or whcther it changes its behavior over time (instable) is an important aspect in cosmetic research. In order to observe changes as quickly as possible, analytic mcthods are used. An established method is theology, a sensitive method that gives direct information on sensory aspects. Additional information concerning the kind of instability allow a more focused improvement of formulation in the case of instabilities. In order to gain this information, an additional analytic method with a more ingredient specific focus is needed. In this articlc the possibilities of using dielectric spectroscopy in order to get additional inlBrmation are discussed. For concentrated W/O-emulsions a dependence of emulsion behavior from volume median droplet diamcter dye0 is visible by both methods: theology and dielectric spectroscopy. A variation of droplet size distribution at constant volumc median droplet diameter dye0 does not Post-Adolescent Acne H. E. Knaggs*, E.J. Wood õ, R.L. Rizer •, O.H. Mills • *Unilever Research, 45 River Road, Edgewater NJ 07087, USA, õ School of Biochemistry and Molecular Biology, University of Leeds, Leeds LS2 9JT, UK, aStephens and Associates, Inc., Colorado Research Center, 5050 Edison Avenue, Suite 202 , Colorado Springs, Colorado 80915, USA, •UMDNJ Robert Wood Johnson Medical School, New Brunswick, NJ 08901, USA. Although acne has traditionally been viewed as predominantly affecting adolescents, a significant and growing body of literature suggests an adult (i.e. post- adolescent) form of the disease. This review summarises selected publications on post-adolescent acne, and discusses possible causes and treatment options. Recent epidemiological studics show that there appears to be an increasc in post-adolescent acne, and that the diseasc is lasting longer and is requiri•g treatment well into the mid forties. There is good agreement that, unlike teenage acne, where males tend to show the most severe forms of the disease, post-adolescent acne mainly affccts females (the lesions are f?cquently peri-oral and occur premenstruatly)