486 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE FORMULATION OF LIP PRODUCTS: BACK TO BASICS Nick Morante Consultant: 36 Belair Road, Selden, NY 11784 Makeup and color cosmetics are a group of products which we, as formulators, have the wonderful opportunity to create. Makeups are a very large and diverse group of cosmetic products which are designed to enhance one's beauty and appearance - by using color. Since this group is so large, and our time is so limited, we will restrict this particular presentation to one type of cosmetic product. This presentation will focus on one of the simplest of color cosmetic products - Lipsticks. In future presentations, as this "Back to Basics" series moves forward, we will discuss and learn the basics of other types of color cosmetic products. Raw materials, equipment, basic formulation techniques, and stability testing will be discussed in this beginner's guide.

2004 ANNUAL SCIENTIFIC SEMINAR 487 INTRODUCTION TO THE PRESERVATION OF MAKE-UP TYPE PRODUCTS Steven F. Schnittger Estee Lauder Companies, Inc., 125 Pinelawn Road, Melville, NY Introduction - Make-up Products Makeup products are defined as: "Cosmetics applied to the face to improve or change your appearance." It includes, eyebrow pencils, eyeliners, face powders, lip-rouge, lip gloss, lipstick, liquid or cream foundations and mascara. These products could be either aqueous based or anhydrous manufactured hot or manufactured under a cold process. This broad range of products has various levels of risk in regards to microbial contamination. Today's lecture will talk about the different types of microbiological testing, the different product types, the microbial risk factor associated with each product type, and methods of preservation. Methods of Evaluating Product Quality During the development of a product, the microbiologist may use several tools to evaluate the ability of a product to prevent the growth of microorganisms introduced during product use. The first method is the Preservative Efficacy Test, (P.E.T) which involves introducing a known quantity of microorganisms into a formula and monitoring the rate of kill over time. Not all makeup products require a P.E.T test. This is because they do not contain water, or they are manufactured at high temperatures, or because previous testing showed that the product does not support microbial growth. A second method of evaluating product quality is through an "in-use study". This is where product in its finished component, is given to a controlled population for use and after a specified amount of time, the products are returned to the micro lab for testing. The importance of a clinical in-use is that it simulates "real life" situations. This method can provide added assurance when used in combination with the PET test. The third method is the aerobic plate count (A.P.C). It is used by both the QC, and R&D microbiologist, to quantify the number of bacteria in a sample, at a specific moment in hme. A plate count should be performed on all raw materials, bulk material and finished product unless sufficient data shows that testing is not required. Other methods such as Enrichment and Stability Evaluation are required based on the type of product and area of application.