562 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE objective measurement of mental fatigue caused by exposure to sunlight. The Function of Polyglyceryl Erucate/Isostearate/ Ricinoleate Yasunori Noguchi, Reiko Terada, Jun Ohki, Masae Anpo, Katsuyuki Tamura Research Laboratory, Sakamoto Yakuhin Kogyo Co., Ltd. Today, it is said that the formula design of cosmetics from ingredients of plant origin is an indispensable way and trend. From this consideration, cosmetic materials made from animal and synthetic petroleum ingredients are becoming less usable. Instead, cosmetic materials are designed from ingredients of plant origin and many and various botanical ingredients are being developed. Lanolin, which is one of the animal - based ingredi - ents, is said to have ideal functions as a cosmetic oil, and it has been used in many fields such as make - up cosmetics as well as hair and skin care products for a long time. However, unfortunately, lanolin is an animal based ingredient therefore, the development of a botanical ingredient to replace lanolin was desired. Polyglyceryl - 8 Decaerucate / Isostearate / Ricinoleate, which we have developed, is an ester oil originating from plants and has an equivalent or higher function than fanolin. We have confirmed that our developed ester oil has various excellent characteristics such as a water- holding capability 2.5 times higher than that of lanolin, high air permeability, moisture keeping in derreal layers, protection of hair from changes in external environmental humidity, and excellent gloss and excellent dispersability of pigments. Thus, this newly developed ester oil is expected to be a promising new botanical cosmetic ingredient which can be applied in various fields.

Cosmet. Sci., 55, 563-564 (November/December 2004) Abstracts International Journal of Cosmetic Science Vol. 26, No. 4, 2004* Peau S&he-R&he ET "Hydratation". Concept De La Capture De L'eau Organisle Comme De La Glace J.P. Forestier Universitb Paul-Sabatier (Sciences), Toulouse, France About sixty years ago, Frank and Evans showed, by entropy measurements, that when a "non-polar molecule dissolves in water it modifies the water structure in the direction of greater 'cristallinity', the water builds a microscopic iceberg around it". Now, we propose the "concept of ice-like-water capture": a lowering of organized ice-like water promotes aggregation (loss of solubility) of the filaggrin/keratinl/keratin10 associations through their hydrophobic patches. The capture of ice-like water may be performed by the glucoceramides-rich bilayers in stratum granulosum. Probably, the same process aggregates the proteins of corneocytes envelope as well as corneodesmosomes proteins. According to the "concept of ice-like-water capture", to regulate the keratinization, it is not total water that must be added to the stratum comeum, but ice-like water that must be removed from stratum granulosum. Both petrolatum (lipophilic ingredient) and glycerol (hydrophilic ingredient) would capture the ice-like water, most probably after combination with the lipid bilayers of stratum corneum. Moisturizing cream, when organized in secondary droplets is likely to perform the same action. Measurements by near-infrared reflectance spectroscopy of the skin show that petrolatum glycerol and/or moisturizing cream enhance the quantity of bulk water (1890 -1897 nm band). As the ice-like water is the complement of bulk water, the enhanced bulk water let presume an ice-like water lessening. Some desynchronization (late or forward) of the keratinization / differentiation which confer the somatosensory problems associated with 'dry and flaky skin' may be linked to an excess or lack of ice-like. For instance, the winter xerosis, very common by chilling weather, could be explained by an increase of ice-like water driven by the fall of the temperature. Relationship Between UVA Protection and Skin Response to UV Light: Proposal for Labelling UVA Protection M. Jean-Louis Refr6gier L'Oreal Recherche appliqube et d•veloppement, Centre Charles Zviak, 90 rue du G4n•ral Roguet, 92583 Clichy cedex, France Definition and validation of a most relevant method to assess UVA protection is a major concern for industry, authorities and consumers. However due to the lack of knowledge about all the biological phenomena involved, the level of UVA protection needed, the ways to assess and label it, remain controversial issues. In order to contribute to overcome this situation, the present paper deals with the outcomes of a mathematical model to calculate the distribution between UVB and UVA components of skin responses to UV light. Mathematical calculations of UVB and UVA erythemal components of skin response to sunlight are developed from the well-known determination procedure to calculate the Sunburn Protection Factor (SPF) of sunscreens. •he model establishes the relationship between the UVA component of skin erythemal response to overall UV radiation received from sunlight and the ratio SPF/PFAe where SPF is the Sunburn Protection Factor of the product and PFAe is the Erythemal Protection Factor related to the UVA part of the sunlight. Depending on the efficacy profile of sunscreens, the skin erythemal response may be mainly promoted by UVB rays as it normally occurs in unprotected skin or on contrary by UVA rays. Therefore the efficacy profile of sunscreens defines the deepness where biological events induced by sunlight take place. This new relationship pinpoints the tremendous importance of the protection afforded by sunscreen products in the UVA range when erythema is taken as biological response. By extrapolation of the model to any other biological skin response it becomes possible to predict how to improve the efficiency of sunscreen products in the future. UVA protection afforded by sunscreens should be improved until reaching the same level as the SPF protection factor so that all UV-induced biological responses could be prevented or lowered at the * These abstracts appear as they were originally published. They have not been edited by the Journal of Cosmetic Science. 563