564 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE same extend. To enforce this improvement, a proposal to classify sunscreen products in relation with their UVA protection is made. Beyond SPF Testing L. E. Rhodes and T.M. Callaghan* Photobiology Unit, Dermatology Centre, University of Manchester, Hope Hospital, Manchester, UK. and *Hill Top Research Inc., Manchester, UK Ultraviolet radiation in sunlight produces a range of acute and chronic adverse effects on the skin including sunburn, photosensitivity rashes, immunosuppression, photoageing and carcinogenesis. Sunscreens aim to provide protection, but standard testing procedures primarily involve assessment of ability to protect against acute erythema, as evidenced by the SPF. The SPF may correlate poorly with other aspects of protection, particularly since ultraviolet A is weakly erythemogenic compared with ultraviolet B, yet may make a greater contribution to certain other skin effects of sunlight. Nevertheless, there is an increasing tendency for the sunscreen industry to make claims for their products beyond the SPF data. There is a need to develop systems for clinical testing of sunscreens against other endpoints caused by ultraviolet exposure of skin, including immunosuppression and photosensitivity rashes. In particular, there is a largely unrecognised need for testing of sunscreens against the condition known as polymorphic light eruption, a photosensitivity disorder estimated to affect a staggering 10-20% of the population in the Northern Hemisphere. Ultimately, protection of the skin by sunscreens can only be as effective as their adequacy of application to the skin surface in the everyday setting permits. Optimal sunscreen formulation, and public and patient education in appropriate application technique, both make vital contributions to efficacy of sunscreen protection. This article focuses on the need for extended clinical testing of sunscreens, with particular reference to the photosensitivity disorders, and for improvements in sunscreen formulation and in the adequacy of sunscreen application to the skin surface. Formulating for Efficacy Johann W. Wiechers •, Caroline L. Kelly 2, Trevor G. Blease 2, and J. Chris Dederen • •Uniqema Skin R&D, Gouda, The Netherlands, 2Uniqema R&D Department, Redcar, United Kingdom, and •Uniqema Personal Care Applied Research and Technical Service Group, Redcar, United Kingdom, Active ingredients have been around in cosmetics for a long time but have they really resulted in active cosmetic products? In order to achieve this, the right active needs to be delivered to the right location at the right concentration for the correct period of time. And the extent (and therefore the concentration) of this delivery depends on the formulation. From a rather theoretical approach based on the polarity of the active ingredient, the stratum corneum and the oil phase, the Relative Polarity Index was established that enables the selection of a suitable emollient for ensuring skin penetration of the active ingredient. Practical examples subsequently show the validity of this approach that demonstrates that one can regulate the delivery of an active molecule (and therefore the efficacy of a cosmetic formulation) by selection and control of the emollient system. Cosmetic formulations are generally quite complex mixtures and subsequent experiments using different emulsifier systems indicated that this component of a cosmetic formulation could also have an impact on steering the active ingredient to the right layer of the skin, although it is too early to be able to derive general rules from this.

j. Cosmet. sci., 55, 565-567 (November/December 2004) Abstracts IFSCC Magazine Vol. 7, No. 3, 2004* Reconstructed Human Epidermis as an Efficient Tool in the Evaluation of the Effects of UV Irradiation and of the Photoprotective Capacities of a Sunblock Alain Mavon, Chrisrelic Gblis, Patricia Vicendo Service de Pharmacocinbfique Cutan•e, Institut de Recherche Pierre Fabre, All•e Camille Soula, BP 74, 31322 Castanet, France Laboratoire des IMRCP, LrMR 5623 au CNRS, Universit6 Paul Sabatier, 118 route de Narbonne, 31062 Toulouse Cedex 04, France Solar or UVA (ultraviolet A) irradiation of the skin causes biological damage, including apoptosis, which is evident in the form of sunburn cells and the overexpression of p53. These two parameters, as well as the measurement of cellular viability, were used to evaluate the effects of UV irradiation on a reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) model, with and without the photoprotection of a broad spectrum sunblock. Reconstructed epidermis models were irradiated by solar 2 2 spectrum (420 mJ/cm ) or UVA (20 J/cm ). In the absence 2 of irradiation, and with irradiation doses of 420 mJ/cm and 2 20 J/cm , viability was estimated at 95%, 12% and 70% respectively. Sunburn cells per cm were evaluated at 0, 41 and 22 respectively under these same conditions. The apoptofic response was studied through the expression of p53, which increased at first and then was followed by a specific 2 cleavage, 24 hours after irradiation at 420 mJ/cm. However, in the presence of a broad spectrum sunblock preparation (a combination of OMC, MBTBP, TiO 2 and 2 2 ZnO) and after irradiation at 420 mJ/cm and 20 J/cm , viability increased to 40% and 85% respectively. The number of sunburn cells (SBC) per cm fell to 12 and 9 respectively. The photoprotection provided by the sunblock limited the increase in the expression of p53 and resulted in the total disappearance of the cleavage. This study shows that human reconstructed epidermis is a valid skin model for use in the evaluation of the effects of solar and UVA irradiation, as well as in the testing of the efficacy of sunfilters. 20-O-13-D-Glucopyranosyl-20(S)-Protopanaxadiol (Compound K) Induces Expression of Hyaluronan Synthase 2 Gene in Transformed Human Keratinocytes and Fibroblasts and Increases Hyaluronan in Hairless Mouse Skin Sujong Kim, Byung Young Kang, Si Yong Cho, Dae Suk Sung, Eiu Suk Shin, Hui Kyung Chang, Myung Hun Yeom, Kwang Sik Woo, Duk Hee Kim, Young Chul Sim and Yong Sung Lee R & D Center, Amore-Pacific Corporation, 314-1 Borari, Kihenng-enp, Yongin-si, Kyounggi-do 449-729, Korea Department of Biochemistry, College of Medicine, Hanyang University, Seoul, Korea Ginsenosides, the major active ingredients of ginseng, show a variety of biomedical efficaeies such as anti-aging, anti- oxidation and anti4ntlammatory activities. To understand the effects of 20-O-U-D-glucopyranosyl-20 (S)-protopanaxadiol (compound K) - one of the major metabolites ofginsenosides - on the skin, we assessed the expression level of approximately 100 transcripts in compound K-treated HaCaT cells using eDNA microarray analysis. Compound K treatment induced differential expression of 40 genes, which have been reported to be involved in the organization of the structure of the extracellular matrix as well as defense responses in human skin cells. One of the most interesting findings is a two-fold increase in hyaluronan synthase2 (HAS2) gene expression by compound K. We found that change in expression of hyaluronan synthase 2 gene represents a specific response of HaCaT cells to compound K because hyaluronan synthase 1,3 was not changed by treatment with compound K. We also demonstrated that the compound K effectively induced hyaluronan synthesis in human skin cells and hairless mouse skin. A human clinical study indicated that topical application of compound K- containing oil-in-water emulsion showed improvement of xerosis, wrinkle and fine lines in the aged skin. We concluded that compound K has anti-aging effects by the induction of hyaluronan synthase 2 gene expression and following hyaluronan synthase. * These abstracts appear as they were originally published. They have not been edited by the Journal of Cosmetic Sdence. 565