SUBJECT INDEX 5 81 Itch impairment of skin barrier function associated with, 311 Keratinocytes downregulation of nuclear factor-kappa B in, 314 epidermal, treated with 7-dehydrocholesterol, 149 transformed, 565 Lipid(s) disruption in barrier organization of, 506 nanoparticle formulations, 463 -related materials, prevention effects on hair damage of, S 171 Liposomes and liquid crystals, 403 as topical vehicles for azelaic acid, 253 Lips treatment for chapping, 314 Lipstick formulation of, 486 long-wearing, 308 prevention of color transfer from, 391 Makeup colors, from synthesis of titanium oxide interference film, 219 foundation, usefulness and technology of, 387 preservation of, 487 pressed powder, ultra-low pressure molding technology for, 566 Melanin(s) -degrading enzymes, 116 granules, irradiation of, 291 in preventing photo-oxidative damage to hair, 395 Melanogenesis effect of deoxyarbutin on inhibition of, 118 inhibitors of, 314 Microemulsions perfumed, 139 Moisturizers Palo azul extract to treat dry skin, 308 L-2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylic acid (L-PCA) to enhance blood circulation, 389 Neonatal adaption role of Vernix caseosa, 504 Odor(s) apocrine-secreted odor-binding protein, 312 body malodor generation, 388, 483 Particulates dispersion of, 408 Photolightening of blond hair, 291 Polymer(s) (see also Silicone(s)) as anti-irritant barrier film, 559 cationic, 123, 125, 265, S195 high molecular weight polyethylene oxide (PEO), 123 hydrophobic, S 1 for personal care applications, S 1 self cross-linking, in enhancing hair strength, 390 self-organizing color fix, in lipsticks, 308 in semi-solid o/w creams, 392 sugar-based, SI -surfactant combinations, S 1 urethane, as hair styling agent, 390 Preservatives in make-up, 487 reduction or elimination of, 412 Protein labile, as index of hair damage, 553 loss quantification of abraded virgin and bleached hair, S 175 Retinol biodisponibility of, 394 stability of, 421 Saliva salivary films on hydroxyapatite, 163 Scale-up in cosmetic industry, 489 Sebum artificial treatment of dark brown hair with, 29 model, transition temperatures of, S19 Shampoos cationic cellulosic polymers in, S195 clear, S 195 and color retention in dyed hair, S 133 delivery of anti-dandruff active in, S207 rheological characterization in presence of Dead Sea salt, 312 Silicone(s) (see also Polymer(s)) carboxyl modified, application to cosmetic surfactants, 390 as color-lock aid in rinse-off hair conditioners, 130 emulsifiers, effects on in vitro skin permeation of sunscreens, 509 in hair dyes, S 123 quats, S 133 resin polypeptide, 559 in shampoos, S 195 Skin biophysical functions of, 393 changes in cutaneous structures of, 224 connective tissue of, 215 delivery of vitamin E to, 177 dryness, 308, 311,563 elasticity and viscoelasticity of, 373 epidermal keratinocytes, 149 ethnic, 208 evaluation methods, 502

582 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE extracellular matrix of, 136 first-aid formulation applied to wounds, 157, 387 fluorescence, 389 micro-anatomy of, 224 natural moisturizing factors of, 211 penetration by external agents, 566 penetration of salicylic acid from ache treatment products, 65 permeation by L-ascorbic acid, 1 permeation by sunscreens, 509 rheological and physiological properties of, 473 sagging, 373 structure, 132 surface friction of, 387 topically induced irritation, 506 transparency, 561 treatment by cosmetic vehicles, 189 wrinkling, 313, 373 Skin care anti-inflammatory actives in cosmetic formulations, 213 cleansing by novel nanogel carriers, 222 clinical effects of cosmetic vehicles, 189 impact of cosmetic dermatology, 209 Palo azul extract as moisturizer, 308 protection technologies, 134, 396 Spectroscopy Infrared, S 19 in vitro UV, 566 UV/visible, 327 Stratum corneum (see also Skin) barrier protection and recovery, 189 hydration of, 189, 308, 481 of perioral region, 393 Sun exposure and development of fatigue, 31 l, 561 and hair photoaging, S 113 and impairment of hair mechanical properties, 533 and protection properties of hair care products, S 105 Sunscreens comparison of SPFs, 393 inorganic dispersions of, 414 in vitro prediction of PFA values of, 230 in vitro skin permeation of, 509 photochemical behavior assessment of, by in vitro UV spectroscopy, 566 photoprotective efficacy of, 307, 565 SPF testing of, 564 UVA protection by, 563 Surfactants artionic, 281, 351 cationic, 351 cosmetic, 390, S1 element-labelled, 392 -liposome interactions, S 1 liquid crystals, 403 mixed, S1 non-ionic, 392 polymeric, 406 single, S 1 structural effects of, S1 used to formulate clear shampoos, S 195 Thermal treatments effect on hair color, 437 measurement of heat transfer, 496 Ultraviolet radiation as cause of fading and color change in dyed hair, S 123 effect on hair structure, 95 evaluation of effects of, 565 -induced MMPs, 566 photolightening of blond hair, 291 photoprotection of hair from, 95 and simulation of sun exposure by, 533 skin response to, 563 Vitamin A in o/w emulsions, 449 palmitate, photostability and stability of, 233 Vitamin C in anionic surfactant system, 281 derivatives, in topical formulations, 312 Vitamin E delivery to skin by cleanser, 177 efl•ct of sunlight on, in the superficial stratum comeurn, 177 in o/w emulsions, 449 topical, 221 topical vs dietary supplementation, 77 Whitening agents naturally occurring, in cosmetic microemulsions, 139 titanium dioxide, 307 Wound healing external preparations, 157, 387 Wrinkling and behavior of fibroblasts, 396, 400 facial, age-related changes in, 373 facial, visibility of reduction of, 313