566 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE High Spatial Resolution Study of Human Skin Using Synchrotron Infrared Microscopy: Application to the Penetration of External Agents Natalie Gross, Sylvie Marull, Claude Fromageot, Manhattan Lebel, Jean-Marie Baret, Alain Barbier, Jean-Michel Ortega and Paul Dumas LURE, Centre universitaire Paris Sud, BP 34, 91898 Orsay, France Laboratoire de Biologic V6g6tale Yves Rocher, 101, Quai du Pr6sident Roosevelt, 92444 Issy les Moulineaux Cedex, France Sanofi-Synth61abo Recherche, Avenue Professcur Blayac, 34184 Montpellier Cedex 04, France YSL Beaut6, 20-26, Boulevard du Parc, 92521 Neuilly sur Seine Cedex, France Human skin sections were studied using synchrotron- powered-infrared microscopy. The superior lateral resolution achieved with this technique (diffraction-limited spot sizes) allows the detailed analysis of the bio-composifion of the skin layers. It is shown that highly organized lipids are present in the stratum corncure, as evidenced by a slight frequency difference in the symmetric stretch mode of the methylene groups. Biochemical images were generated showing the precise location of the lipids, proteins and collagen across the skin section. More enhanced images were generated using a statistical approach (fuzzy C-means clustering). Penetration of two external agents (cyanophenol and a cosmetic compound, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate) was studied. The penetration pathway across the stratum corncure is favored at locations of lower lipid concentration. Both compounds penetrated into the epidermis, but neither of them induced a change in the protein secondary structure. It was shown that hair follicle is a favored penetration pathway for these agents. Development of Effects of Plant Extracts on the Activity and Expression of UVA Induced MMPs (Matrix Metalloproteases) Dong-hwan Lee, Bum-chun Lee, Eun-jeong Yoon, Kyung- eun Lee, Sung-min Park, Hyeong-bae Pyo, Tae-boo Choe R & D Center, Hanbul Cosmetics Co., 72-7 Yongsung-ri, Samsung-myun, Umsung-kun, Chungbuk 369-830, Korea Section of Chemical and Biological Engineering, Konkuk University, Hwayang-dong, Kwan•jin-ku, Seoul 143-701, Korea MMP-1 activity by 92% and 87%, respectively. At 0.1% (w/v) the extracts of the flower buds of Tussilago farfara and of Dicenrta spectabilis suppressed the UVA induced expression of MMP-1 by an amount similar to that with Vitamin C 200 pM. These results suggest that the extracts of Dicentra spectabilis and of the flower buds of Tussilago faffara effectively protect skin from UV-induced photoaging. Therefore, the extracts are thought to have potential as effective raw materials for anti-aging cosmetics. Photochemical Behavior Assessment of Sunscreen Preparations by In Vitro UV Spectroscopy Louis Ferrero, Marc Pissavini, Stephanie Marguerie, Leonhard Zastrow Coty Beauty/Lancaster group, International Research & Development Center, Athos Palace - 2, rue de la Lujemetta, MC 98000 Monaco In this study we used a spectroscopic method we found effective in measuring sunscreen photo-degradation results in terms of a photoabsorption decrease. The traditional approach has been to measure variations in well-known parameters such as the absolute in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) or the relative UVA/UVB ratio at•er a controlled dose of UV radiation. However, these parameters fail to fully reflect the product's photochemical behavior. Variation in the SPF mainly depicts changes in UVB filtration, and variation in the relative parameter UVA/UVB ratio can be subject to misinterpretation, as is the case for products in which a parallel loss of photoabsorption is observed in the UVA and UVB regions. In our laboratory we developed a new approach using pure spectroscopic UVA and UVB attenuation factors called UVA attenuation factor and UVB attenuation factor. Attenuation factors are defined here as the inverse of the arithmetic mean of the transmittance data, taken either from the UVB region (290 to 320 nm, 1 nm steps) or the UVA region (320 to 400 nm, 1 nm steps). Using these two new spectroscopic indices, the photochemical behavior of a sunscreen formula can be assessed in each UV region. The general procedure consists of applying 2 UV doses to a film of sunscreen previously spread on a roughened polymethylmethacrylate plate and then measuring the UV transmission vs. wavelength before and after the irradiation process. We tested different UV filters in a cosmetic base to demonstrate the efficacy of the method. The effects of several natural products on in vitro MMP-1 activity and UVA induced MMP-1 synthesis in human derreal fibroblast (HDF) cultures were studied with the aim of developing novel anti-aging agents from natural sources. We measured MMP-1 activities by fluorescence assay using gelatin as substrates. In addition, UVA induced MMP-1 expression was analyzed by enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA) and gelatin-based zymography in HDF cultures, and RT-PCR techniques were used. The results showed a strong inhibitory effect of the extracts of Dicentra spectabilis and of the flower buds of Tussilago farfara. In a concentration of 0.05% (w/v) the extracts of the flower buds of Tussilago farfara and of Dicentra spectabilis inhibited Soft Press: The Ultra-Low Pressure Molding Technology for Powder Cosmetics Akio Kashimoto, Yoshimune Nonomura, Hajime Hotta, Toshiyuku Suzuki, Yohei Kaneko, Kazuhiro Iitaka Kao Corporation, Tokyo Research Lab., 2-1-3, Bunka, Sumida-ku, Tokyo 131-8501 Japan Kao Corporation, Wakayama Research Lab., 1334, Minato, Wakayama, 640- 8580 Japan Pressed-powder cosmetics with an extremely soft and light sense of touch were prepared using a novel ultra4ow pressure

ABSTRACTS 567 molding technology. These novel pressed-powder cosmetics have a very high porosity creating a light silky feeling. Furthermore, with this novel molding, large quantities of organic crystalline powder can be incorporated into the cosmetics resulting in a good spreadability and smooth sense of touch. The novel molding technology named sot• press molding developed in the current study involves several characteristic stages: l) mixing the binder dispersion, 2) sot• compression, and 3) drying (volatilizing a disperse medium). The first process is the mixing of water-repellent powder with an aqueous dispersion of elastic film-forming polymer into a pendular or funicular state. After compressing and drying, an interspersed-polymer effectively combines the particles forming contact between the particles. In this study, calcium lauroyl taurate (CaLT) was used as an example of an organic crystalline powder to provide a silky smooth sense of touch to a powdery foundation. CaLT particles deform to a thin layer readily when applied to skin, creating a smooth pleasing sensation while spreading. Conventional high-pressure molding causes deformation during compression resulting in hard-caking of the molded cosmetics. However, by using sot• press molding, the powdery foundation can contain more than 30wt% of CaLT without hard-caking, and the resultant powdery foundation expresses an extremely smooth sensation to the touch. Furthermore, this powdery foundation shows a natural finish approximating bare skin due to the deformation to a thin layer on application restricting the light scattering, a characteristic property of a powder.