j. Cosmet. sci., 55, 579-582 (November/December 2004) SUBJECT INDEX TO VOLUME 55 Acids ascorbic, in anionic surfactant system, 281 amino, 327, S155 azelaic, ethosomes and liposomes as topical vehicles for, 253 hydroxyl, in model skin lotion, 483 L-ascorbic, stabilization of, l lipoic, in o/w emulsions, 449 salicylic, 65, 519 Acne polyol soluble licorice extract P-U, effect on, 388 post-adolescent, 482 treatment products, 65 Active ingredients efficacy of, use of relative polarity index, 314, 654 Aging changes in human skin fluorescence, 389 fibronectin network during, 215 sagging of facial skin, 373 wrinkling of facial skin, 313, 373 Antibaeterials Triclosan, 481 Antioxidants effect on deodorant, 388 influence on sun protection properties of hair care products, S 105 propyl gallate, 281 Antiperspirants application of novel deodorant powder, 388 Antiseptic ingredients Pionin and 1,2-pentanediol, 308 Beards stubble length, 539 tactile smoothness, 539 Beauty standaxds of attractiveness, 120 Chromatography gas, in determination of formaldehyde in cosmetics, 343 HPLC, in chemical analyses of lipoic acid and vitamins A and E, 449 Collagen cosmetic application of, 327 Colorants (see also Hair dyeing) chemistry of, 490 Creams (see also Gel(s)) semisolid o/w, 392 Dandruff anti-dandruff active in shampoo vehicle, S207 antifungal activity of zinc pyrithione, 217 Deodorants based on understanding of biochemical origins of VFA-based axillary malodor, 483 effect of antioxidant on, 388 novel powder, 388 Dermatology cosmetic, impact on skin care and cosmetics, 209 dermatological vehicles, 189, 388 Differential scanning calorimetry for determining the thermal stability of collagens, 327 Emulsifiers non-ionic mixed, 392 selection and use of, 401 silicone, 509 Emulsion(s) (see also Gel(s) Microemulsions) double, water-in-oil-in-water, 1 formulation basics, 400 o/w, 233, 449 polymethylene waxes as conditioning agent in hair relaxers, S 181 stabilization of, 406 w/o, 482 Emollient esters anti-microbial properties of, 412 polyglyceryl erucate/isostearate/ricinoleate, function of, 562 PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate, S 143 579

580 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE Ethosomes as topical vehicles for azelaic acid, 253 Eyes ocular irritancy of cosmetic and consumer products, 228, 317 puffiness, 226 reduction of bags, 395 Fat subcutaneous, facial distribution of, 560 Fibroblasts, human enhancement of, 560 transformed, 565 Fingernails moisture content and mechanical properties of, 391 Formaldehyde in cosmetics, quantitative determination of, 343 Gel(s) (see also Emulsions) in "cracking foam" product for alleviating leg swelling, 390 hydrophilic, 253 hydroxy ethyl cellulose hydrogels, 233 nanogels as encapsulating agents, S 1 non-water, 559 Hair behavioral response of, S91 bleached, permed, 351 bleaching treatments, 533 blond, photolightening mechanism of, 291 color, 121,423, 437, S123 combing force on, S133 conditioning, S 133 conditioning polymer deposits on, 123, 125, 390 curly, 29 damage, 351,395, 553, S65, S155, S171 follicles, 313 frizzy, 29 growth, promotion of, 560 humidity, effects, on, S91 loss (alopecia), 492 luster, 49, 81, 121 mechanical properties, impairment of, 533 modeling, thermal conductivity of, 496 optical properties of, 29 photoaging of, S 113 quality, 397 specular reflection patterns in, 29 styling products, 128 surfactants in, 392 very curly, 29 Hair care products conditioners, 123, 125, 130, 265, S181 effects on untreated and bleached hair, S171 ingredients in, pertbrmance of, S65 novel nanogel carriers, 222 potential interaction of, 492 regrowth products, 313 relaxers, S ! 81 shampoos, 312, S133 styling, image analysis of hair treated with, 128 sun protection properties of, S 105 Hair dyeing acid dye remover, development of, 388 artificial color in preventing photo-oxidative damage, 395 arginine as alkalizer for oxidative dyes, S 155 color changes caused by, 437 color retention in, S 133 color stimulating apparatus, 307 new developments in, 494 silicones used in, S 123 washout of, S 123 Hair fiber(s) cross-linking structure and mechanical properties of, 308 cuticle chipping of, 351 damage to, hygrothermal, 13 dry, curling of, 13 ethnic, light scattering fi:om, 49 intercellular adhesion in, 351 laser-light reflection from, 81 microscopic DVI imaging of, S29 protein loss f¾om, S 175 proteome, 397 response to changes in temperature and humidity, S 19 rigidity of, S65 strength, enhancement of, 390 structure of, 49, 95, 351, S25 swelling of, S65 thermal treatments with curling iron, effects on, 13 ToF-SIMS analysis of, 265 twisted, tensile properties of, S79 wet, curling of, 13 Hair luster color, effbct on, 49, 121,423 curl, effect on, 49 ellipticity, effect on, 49 of fibers, S37 gloss, defining, 81 measure of, 81 shine, measurement of, S 143 surface roughness, effect on, 49 Hair science role of computational fluid dynamics (CFD) in, S53 Immune system mechanisms of, 389