ABSTRACTS 161 years was examined. The values of several roughness parameters within the evaluation line length or surface area increased with age and showed a good correlation coefficient (r 0.743). Similar relationships between the wrinkle scores and the values of roughness parameters were observed (r 0.699). The roughness values were widely distributed even in the same wrinkle score because the measurement areas were limited and the values of skin roughness, including the microreliefs and/or small warts, were included in the calculation. However, changes in roughness values are considerable following treatment with potent active ingredients such as retinoic acid, so that this in vivo evaluation method is sufficient to objectively evaluate wrinkles. We conclude that the direct three- dimensional analysis of wrinkles in vivo should become a popular method to objectively evaluate wrinkles in clinical tests of wrinkle-smoothing ingredients or following cosmetic surgery to provide evidence of quantitative results. Nanostructured lipid carriers as novel carrier for sunscreen formulations Q. Xia*, A. Saupe_, R.H. Mu .. lier_ and E. B. Souto_,_ *Department of Biological Science and Medical Engineering, Southeast University, Nanjing 210096, China, _Department of Pharmaceutics, Biopharmaceutics and Biotechnology, Free University of Berlin, Kelchstr. 31, D- 12169 Berlin, Germany and _Department of Pharmaceutical Technology, Faculty of Health Sciences, Fernando Pessoa University, Rua Carlos da Maia, 296, S3, P-4200-150 Porto, Portugal Eliana B. Souto, Department of Pharmaceutical Technology, Faculty of Health Sciences, Fernando Pessoa University, Rua Carlos da Maia, 296, S3, P-4200-150 Porto, Portugal. Tel.: +351 225 074630 fax:+ 351 225 074637 e-mail: eliana@ufb.pt Incorporation of sunscreens into lipid carriers with an increased sun protection factor (SPF) has not yet been fully accomplished. In the present paper, the effectiveness of a sunscreen mixture, incorporated into the novel topical delivery systems, i.e. solid lipid nanoparticles {SLN) and nanostructured lipid carriers (NLC), used as ultraviolet (UV) protector enhancers with a distinctly higher loading capacity has been developed and evaluated. SLNand NLC were produced by hot high pressure homogenization technique in lab scale production. Size distribution and storage stability of formulations were investigated by laser diffractometry and photon correlation spectroscopy. Nanoparticles were characterized by their melting and recrystallization behaviour recorded by differential scanning calorimetry. Lipid nanoparticles produced with a solid matrix (SLN and NLC) were established as a UV protection system. The loading capacities for molecular sunscreens reported before now were in the range of 10- 15%. It was possible to load NLC with up to 70% with molecular sunscreen, which is appropriate to obtain high SPFs with this novel UV protection system. The developed formulations provide a beneficial alternative to conventional sunscreen formulations. The UV protective efficacy of the lipid particles varied with the nature oflipid and UV wavelength. Review Article Pores in the epidermis: aquaporins and tight junctions J. M. Brandner Department of Dermatology and Venerology, University Hospital Hamburg Eppendorf, Martinistrasse 52, D-200246 Hamburg, Germany Johanna M. Brandner, Department of Dermatology and Venerology, University Hospital Hamburg-Eppendorf, Martinistrasse 52, D-20246 Hamburg, Germany. Tel.: +49 40 42803 5819 fax: +49 40 42803 2630 e-mail: brandner@uke.unihamburg.de Water homeostasis of the epidermis is important for the appearance and physical properties of the skin, as well as for water balance in the body. It depends on several factors, e.g. barrier quality, uptake of water into the epidermis, concentration of water-retaining humectants, and external humidity. Aquaporins (AQPs) are pores in the plasmamembranes of cells. Monomeric AQPs fonn barrel- like structures that are primarily water selective, some AQPs also transport glycerol and possibly other small solutes. In the epidermis, AQP3 is the predominant AQP. It is localized mainly in basal but also in suprabasal layers of the epidermis and is permeable for water as well as for glycerol, a humectant. Mice deficient in AQP3 exhibit reduced stratum comeum (SC) hydration and impaired SC barrier recovety after SC removal. In skin diseases associated with elevated transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and reduced SC hydration, altered expression of AQP3 was shown. Tight junctions (TJ) are cell-cell jun ctions, which play a central role in sealing the intercellular space of cell sheets and thereby establishing a paracellular barrier. Within the TJ, pores are postulated to exist, which allow the controlled diffusion of water and solutes via the paracellular pathway. In the epidermis, TJ structures were demonstrated in the stratum granulosum whereas TJ proteins were found in all viable layers. Mice which overexpress or are deficient of key-proteins of TJ die soon after birth because of a tremendous TEWL. In various skin diseases that are accompanied by elevated TEWL and reduced skin hydration, staining patterns ofTJ proteins are altered. This review will summarize our current knowledge of the involvement of AQPs and TJ in the water homeostasis of the epidermis.

]. Cosmet. Sci., 59, 163-164 (March/April 2008) Abstracts IFSCC Magazine Vol. 10, No. 4, 2007* My First Year of Experience in the Cosmetic Field - Problems and Future Hopes Muchaneta G. Mutasa Azochem Laboratories, 250 Nadine St., Robertville, Roodepoort, South Africa Where do I begin to tell my adventures as a new research and development chemist? It has been a mixed bag of excitement, frustration, hope, pride in achievement and much potential. Before I take you through the obstacle course that I have been exposed to in the cosmetic industry let me give you background information on myself. I have always been inclined towards the sciences. I took up science subjects for my A-Level Cambridge exams, but surprised my father for a little while by registering for a BA in psychology. After two weeks I decided that was not for me and registered for a BSc in natural and environmental sciences with biochemistry and psychology as my majors with the notion that one day after my studies I would become a neuropsychologist. When I had to decide between taking my honors in psychology or biochemistry, I chose biochemistry mainly because I thought I had better prospects of finding a job soon after completing the degree, which would free my parents from the financial burden of paying for tuition through to a PhD in psychology (you have to be a doctor first before earning any real money in psychology, I had been told). Boy was I wrong! The carefree, self-assured graduate with the world at her feet slowly changed into a grasping-at-straws, 'I will do anything to pay the bills' nobody until nearly two years after graduation the advertisement for a junior R&D chemist magically appeared in my email! That opened up the floodgates for my childhood dreams of making people feel better by making them look better through makeup and fashion, my adult inclination towards psychology with a scientific twist. I felt this was the opportunity I had been waiting for but had not known it! Thus, my adventure began ... This essay won the 2007 Maison G. de Navarre Young Scientist Prize that is awarded for either the first or second paper in cosmetic science or a specially written essay on a topic selected by the 2006-2007 IFSCC President for an author of 35 years or younger. This Prize was awarded to Muchaneta G. Mutasa during the Openings Ceremony of the 2007 IFSCC Conference »Building on Water«, Amsterdam, The Netherlands on 24 September 2007. The purpose of the Maison G. de Navarre Young Scientist Prize is to stimulate young cosmetic scientists to write scientific papers/essays. The prize covers all expenses to attend the first IFSCC Congress or Conference that is held after the prize was awarded. Skin Lipid Organization, Composition and Barrier Function Joke A Bouwstra, Gert S. Gooris and Maria Ponec Leiden/ Amsterdam Center for Drug Research, Gorlaeus Laboratories, Leiden University, P.O. Box 9502, 2300 RA Leiden, The Netherlands The primary function of the skin is to act as a barrier against unwanted influences from the environment and to protect the body from water loss. The barrier function of the skin is located in the superficial layer of the skin, the stratum comeum. The stratum comeum consists of dead cells filled with keratin and water, the comeocytes, embedded in lipid regions. As the lipid regions are the only continuous structure in the stratum comeum, they are considered to be very important for the skin barrier function. The main lipid classes are ceramides, cholesterol and free fatty acids. In this paper the lipid organization in human stratum comeum is reviewed. In addition, the role the various lipid classes play in lipid organization is discussed using mixtures prepared from either native human ceramides or synthetic ceramides. Finally, a model is described which allows study of the relation between lipid composition, organization and barrier function. This model is referred to as the stratum comeum substitute. * These abstracts appear as they were originally published. They have not been edited by the Journal of Cosmetic Science. 163