"Hind Ka Noor India Amorphous Talc Camphor 1% Camphor Camphor Eye Liner ,, (Mumbai) carbon B. Carbon 96% Black carbon Amorphous carbon Others 3% Unknown Unknown "Khojati® India Amorphous Wax Coconut oil 50.000% Coconut oil Coconut oil Mumtaz® (Satara) carbon (paraffin Cow's ghee 10.825% Cow's ghee A (cow's) clear/purified butter Cold Kajal" or bee) Madhu Ka Mome 29.278% "Honey of wax" Beeswax Bhimseni Kafoor 4.639% Camphor Camphor Ark Phudina 0.103% Extract of mint Extract of mint Sufoof-e-Syah 5 .15 5 % "Black from oil of almond" Amorphous carbon n "Khojati® Surma India Zincite Camphor Sange Basari 43 .080% "Stone of Basra" A calcium/iron/zinc mineral No. 13 (Nashik) (Amorphous Gile Surkh 8.000% Red ochre (Hydrated) Iron oxide(s) � ®Black [Export carbon/ Ph. Ph. Safed 0.100% "White potassium"? A white (potash?) alum? -::r: Quality}" graphite) Hab-el-Arus/Neem 0.100% "Bean of the bride-groom" Java pepper n Bhimseni Kafoor 45.370% Camphor Camphor r Arak Phudina 0.350% Extract of mint Extract of mint n Sufoof-Syah 3.000% "Black from oil of almond" Amorphous carbon 0 "Khojati® Surma India Galena (Cerussite) Asmad 100% "A (crushed if a powder) Galena/lead sulphide � Sada" (Nashik) (Anglesite) ("Ground in Natural rock from Saudi Arabia" 0 Extracts") "Natural extracts" Herbs? - B) Yemeni samples: "Hashmi® Kajal" Pakistan Zincite (Galena) Zinc oxide (B.P.) Zinc oxide/zincite Zinc oxide/zincite 0 (B&W tube (Karachi) (Paraffin wax) Waxes (B.P.) Waxes (Paraffin?) Waxes z with emblem) Processed carbon black Amorphous carbon Amorphous carbon 0 ('real version') Herbs Herbs Herbs Clarified butter A clarified butter A clear/purified butter � Cinnamomum camphora Cinnamon & camphor Cinnamon & camphor 0 Lead (P.B.) 0.00% Lead (Pb) at zero % Zero % lead/lead compounds r "Hashmi® Kajal" Pakistan Zincite (Paraffin wax) Zinc oxide (B.P.) Zinc oxide/zincite Zinc oxide/zincite � (B&W tube, (Karachi) (Galena) Waxes (B.P.) Waxes (Paraffin?) Waxes no emblem) (Unknown) Processed carbon black Amorphous carbon Amorphous carbon ('fake version') Herbs Herbs Herbs Clarified butter A clarified butter A clear/purified butter Cinnamomum Cinnamon & camphor Cinnamon & camphor camphora (B.P.) "Hashmi Kohl India Zincite (Amorphous Oxide of zinc A.B. Zinc oxide/zincite Zinc oxide/zincite Aswad" (Mumbai) carbon) Kafur A.B. Camphor Camphor � (no emblem) ,........ + This refers only to information from the container or on an enclosed leaflet and is sometimes translated (see Tables I and II).

412 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE is improved and patients can see crystal clear, continuous use will remove your spec­ tacles." The main ingredient for all of these kohl samples was sassolite (i.e., boric/boracic acid, H 3 BO3 , with minor phases of a zinc borate and carbon (as either graphite or amorphous carbon). Sassolite is a weak antiseptic and a feeble bacteriostatic and fungi­ static, and has been used in the past, in weak aqueous solutions, as eye drops/lotion. However, toxic effects can sometimes occur from absorption if it is used internally or externally on broken areas of skin ((26) and references therein). Thus, we would question at least some of the medicinal efficacy claims made for these four samples. Two samples based on amorphous carbon also had information provided on their me­ dicinal effects. The sample "Khojati Mumtaz Cold Kajal" merely states, "It cools, soothes and protects eyes from dust and harmful effects of bright light." The other sample, "Hind Ka Noor Eye Liner," states on an enclosed leaflet (in Arabic), "Protects you permanently from diseases of the eye" and "Very advantageous against the weakness of the eye, or water in the eye, or dirt, or eye pain, or inflammation." While placing a black material, such as these kohls, around the eyes should give them some protection from dust, flies, and the glare of a bright sun, it is unlikely that the material would be of assistance against disease of the eyes. Also, the Khojati sample is the only one (of five such samples overall that list "waxes" in their "contents data"-see Table III) to spe­ cifically state that the wax is "honey of wax," i.e., beeswax. Only paraffin wax diffraction data is currently in the (XRPD) JCPDS database. However, we did manage to obtain (from a bee-keeping colleague) some fresh yellow beeswax and thus its diffraction pattern. Unfortunately this pattern was found to be very similar to that of paraffin wax, and so it proved impossible to determine if indeed beeswax was present in this sample. The two samples "Khojati Surma No. 13 Black" and "Hashmi Kajal" (in a B&W tube) both have limited and general medicinal effects information given on a leaflet or on packaging. Both have main phases of zincite (ZnO), with minor phases of camphor and carbon for the first sample and of wax and carbon for the second sample. "Keeps eyes cool, clean and healthy. Its an ideal tonic for the summer seasons. For external use in the eyes only" is stated for the Khojati sample on an enclosed leaflet. For the Hashmi sample we have the general comments: "Besides keeping the eyes cool and refreshing, it also protects them" and " . . . , presented in the form of black paste in tubes can be safely used for all ages." Zinc oxide is a mild antiseptic and camphor a mild counterirritant thus both samples, if used externally and in moderation, would not be expected to give rise to toxic effects. Unfortunately this cannot be said for the last two samples from Doha ("Khojati Surma Sada" and "Hashmi Kohl Aswad") that have medicinal effects data provided. Both have lead sulfide present as the main phase, and both have it present as a matte powder (i.e., having small particle size and so an increased likelihood of toxicity when absorbed-see previous section). The Khojati sample says, in English, on one side of an enclosed leaflet, "Surma is not to be applied to children below 12 years of age." However, on its other side it states, "This is the purest form of surma scientifically ground in different natural extracts. As there is no addition of any other ingredients it does not make the eyes water and can be used for children below 8 years" (our addition of bold). While it also states (on the box): "Unani medicine. For external use in the eyes only," there can be no justification for the above statement for using such a powder on young children. The Hashmi sample has the following statements on its packaging (in Arabic): "Useful for preserving sight," "Makes all diseases of the eye miserable," and "Both young and old can