]. Cosmet. Sci.J 59, 449-450 (September/October 2008) Abstracts Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists Japan Vol. 42, No. 2, 2008* Effect of Birch Betula platyphylla Sukatchev var. japonica Hara Sap on Cultured Human Epidermal Keratinocyte Differentia1ion Masahiro Moriyama*, Eiji Naru*, Yuko Misaki**, Akinobu Hayashi* *KOSE Coropration Research Development Product Research Laboratories, 48-18, Sakae-cho, Kita-ku, Tokyo 114-0005, Japan **KOSE Corporation Research Development Product Development Laboratories, 1-18-4, Azusawa, Itabashi-ku, Tokyo 174-0051,Japan The beauty of ideal skin texture is closely associated with dermal moisture factors. The key factors of skin moisture are NMF natural moisturizing factor and skin normal barrier function. The former keeps surface moisture, and the later protects from excess water loss. So we have searched for the ingredient that improves these factors. Birch sap has been widely used as an effective drink for anti-fatigue and anti-stress. However, the effect of birch sap on skin as a cosmetic agents has not been known entirely. In this study, we investigated the effects of birch Betula platyphylla Sukatchev var. japonica Hara sap on human skin. Birch sap induced epidermal keratinocyte differentiation properties in vitro. We assessed two epidermal differentiation agents. Filaggrin is a precursor protein ofNMF, and involucrin is one of the precursor proteins of the comified cell envelope CE , which is related to normal barrier function. We have evaluated the production of these proteins where birch sap was applied to human normal keratinocytes. Birch sap not only increased mRNA expression of filaggrin and involucrin, but also accelerated these proteins production. Otherwise, birch sap did not have any influence for IL-6 production, which is related to inflammatory and aberrant keratinocyte proliferation. The results of induced differentiation properties on birch sap-treated keratinocytes are very similar to the differentiation induced by calcium in vitro. This similarity suggested that birch sap has a differentiation inducible property on in vitro cultured keratinocytes. Our study suggested that birch sap is able to control both moisturizing and barrier-related factor production. From these effects, birch sap provides appropriate epidermal functions and skin homeostasis, and revealed itself as a very useful ingrediert in the cosmetic field. Noninvasive Three-Dimensional Analysis of In Vivo Human Skin Using the Next-Generation Optical Coherence Tomograph OCT, Fourier Domain OCT Shingo Sakai Basic Research Laboratory, Kanebo Cosmetics, Ltd. 5- 13-28, Kotobuki-cho, Odawara 250-0002, Japan Two-dimensional image by conventional optical coherence tomography OCT is very useful in dermatology. Recently, Fourier domain OCT FD-OCT , which included spectral domain OCT SD-OCT and swept source OCT SS-OCT , has been developed as a new modality that produces fast and highly sensitive OCT images. These new OCTs enable real-time, video rate cross-sectional imaging and three-dimensional analysis. Moreover, polarization sensitive SD-OCT provides three dimensional information about collagen structure in the skin. Noninvasive in vivo three dimensional analysis offers a new way to investigate the relationship between surface morphology wrinkles, textures, and facial pores and the internal structure of the skin. * These abstracts appear as they were originally published. They have been edited by the journal of Cosmetic Science. 449

450 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE A Novel Water-Based Sunscreen Gel using a Polymer­ Zinc Oxide Composite Eiji Takahashi*, Tetsuya Oikawa*, Hirokazu Iyanagi*, Kunihiko Mohri *, Katsuhiko Nakamae** *R&D Department, POLA Chemical Industries, Inc., 27-1, Takashimadai, Kanagawa-ku , Yokoham a 221- 0833, Japan **Japan Synchrotron Radiation Research Institute, 1-1-1, Kouto, Sayo-cho, Sayo-gun, Hyogo 679-5198, Japan Conventional sunscreen products generally must strike a compromise between efficacy and product feel the hydrophobic ingredients that provide the sun protection generally impart an unpleasant, greasy feel and the greater the SPF rating, the worse the greasy feel. We tested an idea that a water-based sunscreen gel formulation containing inorganic UV absorbers would provide an effective way to address these problems. Our goal was to find a way to disperse inorganic sunscreen materials in water and to incorporate them into a water-based gel which would provide a more pleasant product feel. After extensive research we discovered a polymer zinc oxide composite P-ZnO with high UV protective effect and high dispersibility in water. In dried powdered form, P-ZnO can be easily dispersed in water. P-ZnO makes it possible to formulate a gel-type sunscreen, which is not possible using commercially available inorganic powders. The composite size of P-ZnO is about 500 nm and its structure consists of a dense aggregate of nano-ZnO having a size distribution in the 5-10 nm range and amorphous layers of poly acrylic acid coating zinc oxide to control the particle growth, block surface activity and prevent aggregation. The water-based P­ ZnO sunscreen gel offers UV protection comparable to conventional products in a delivery vehicle that is much more pleasant to use. Design and Development of an Innovative Hybrid Powder Based on a Computer Simulation and Its Application to Base Make Up Products Katsuki Ogawa*, Katsuhiko Yagi*, Hideo Hata*, Yoshimasa Miura*, Koichi Nakamura*, Sadaki Takata*, Kazumi Fujima** *Shiseido Research Center, 2-2-1, Hayabuchi, Tsuzuki­ ku, Yokohama 224-8558, Japan **Faculty of Engineering, Yamanashi University, 4-4-37, Takeda, Koufu 400-8510, Japan An innovative hybrid powder prepared through computer simulation allowed a new foundation to be developed having a fine, smooth texture that has never been achieved before. The optical structure/design of the powder was based on the results of measurements and analyses conducted on the optical characteristics of a baby's fine skin that is the envy of many women. In order to achieve the optimal optical characteristics the Finite Differential Time Domain FDTD method to solve Maxwell's differential equation by difference and time domain was applied to the computer simulation method. For the synthesis of the hybrid powder based on the optical model, a proprietary shape regulation coating technology was used, in which flaky substrates were coated with micro-spherical forms of barium sulfate crystals. The developed hybrid powder exhibited optical characteristics that showed a significant diffusion characteristic in the visible light region. The foundation containing this powder could conceal pores, fine wrinkles, freckles, and spots, and provided a fine smooth texture owing to its microscopic reflection characteristics that has never been available from a conventional foundation. Treatment of Dilated Pores in the Ladies Clinic of the Department of Dermatology in Kinki University Hospital Natsuko Konishi Department of Dermatology, Kinki University School of Medicine, 377-2, Ohno-Higashi, Osaka-Sayama 589- 8511 Japan Recently, many Japanese females have turned their attention to dilated pores. In our clinic, the number of female patients with complaints of dilated pores have increased. For these patients, we have shown the way of skin care firstly. Then, we have selected laser and IPL (intense pulsed light) therapies. In this paper, I introduce treatments of dilated pores in the ladies clinic of the Dermatology Department in Kinki University Hospital. Makeup Inhibits Reduction of Reactive Oxygen Scavenging Enzyme Activity Induced by Mental Stress Takumi Tochio*, Eriko Morichi*, Osamu Hirose*, Satoru Nakata*, Junko Kuze** *Research Laboratories, Nippon Menard Cosmetic Co., Ltd., 2-7, Torimi-cho, Nishi-ku, Nagoya 451-0071, Japan **Faculty of Social and Information Sciences, Nippon Fukushi University, Okuda, Mihama-cho, Hannda 475-0012 Japan Recent studies showed that makeup reduces mental stress, indicated by not only psychological but also physiological values. In this study, we examined the relationship between mental stress and the activity of reactive oxygen scavenging enzymes such as superoxide dismutase SOD and catalase CAT, and the effect of the mental stress reduction by makeup on the activity of reactive oxygen scavenging enzymes. In experiment 1, we measured the con:entration of cortisol and activity of SOD in saliva after the additional of mental stress. In this result, the concentration of cortisol increased and the activity of SOD decreased significantly. As we examined the effect of makeup following the mental stress addition in experiment 2, the concentration of cortisol decreased and the activity of SOD and CAT increased. Moreover, we showed a decrease in the anxiety state and increase in spiritual health as the psychological effects. Those results suggest that makeup psychologically canceled anxiety and physiologically inhibited the reduction of reactive oxygen scavenging enzyme activity induced by the mental stress.