CHEMICAL COMPOSITION OF "KOHLS" 413 use it equally." It also prohibits its use if there is itching or inflammation present. This last statement is to be welcomed, but, as for the above Khojati sample, there can be no justification for the use of such a powder (pure small-particle-sized galena) on anyone. Yemen. Only three of the ten Yemeni kohl samples have (qualitative) "contents data" available, and these are listed in Table III. For the two "Hashmi Kajal" samples, the top two phases listed (zinc oxide and waxes) are found as the major and a minor phases, respectively. The third phase listed (amorphous carbon) could be present, but at a level of only a few percent, and hence essentially unobservable by XRPD. Unexpectedly, galena as a minor phase at approximately 3%, is found in both these samples. Neither sample has it listed on its "contents data," and the "real version" specifically states (on its packaging), "Lead (P.B.) at 0.00%." The third sample with "contents data" is "Hashmi Kohl Aswad" -made in India, not Pakistan, as found for the sample of the same name purchased in Doha (see above and Table I). Its listed phases are zinc oxide and camphor the first was found as its major phase, but only amorphous carbon was found as a minor phase. There is only one kohl sample from Yemen that has any medicinal effects data on its container/packaging/leaflet. This sample is the "Hashmi Kohl Aswad" mentioned above. On its cardboard packaging are statements such as (in Arabic): "It is made of raw materials of the highest quality. It is good for the health of the eye and can be used by adults and children. Do not use in cases of itching, inflammation or a burning sensa­ tion." Some of these statements are similar to those found on the other "Hashmi Kohl Aswad" (i.e., made in Pakistan and having an "emblem of authenticity" on its packag­ ing) given the actual contents of this Indian-made sample (zinc oxide and amorphous carbon) compared to those of the Pakistan-made sample (pure galena of small-particle size), use of the former is vastly preferred to that of the latter. Vendor and other personal (i.e., verbal) comments were also made, on both contents and medicinal effects, for some of the 29 samples studied here. For the samples purchased in Doha this information is given in the last column of Table I. Eight of the 19 listed samples were said to be "cold"-that is, to be used solely as cosmetics. Two were said to be "hot"-that is, to be used as either a cosmetic or as an eye medicine. Five of the samples listed as "said to be cold" are contradicted by the presence of medicinal effects information provided with the sample. The two "said to be hot" samples, which also have medicinal effects information provided in writing, have major phases of zincite or sassolite-both mild antiseptics. Some of the other information given in this column matches that found on the sample's packaging or on an enclosed leaflet-for example, unfortunately, "for children" for the "Khojati Surma Sada" sample. The phrase "mixed with Saudi stone" occurred for four samples and the only common phase is sassolite-for which we can find no published reference referring to its natural presence in Saudi Arabia. However, western/southwestern Saudi Arabia does have fumaroles (27), around which sassolite can form, and so this mineral could in fact be available as a "Saudi stone." For the ten samples from Yemen there were a few additional personal/vendor comments on only two samples. The red-colored kohl (labeled by us as "Y9," and said to be called "Ethmart" by the vendor) was said to have medicinal uses-specifically against infected (white of the) eyes. Also, one of the two samples obtained in Aden ("Y2") was believed by the donor to have medicinal properties (for the eyes) and was said by her to contain (in addition to what was in "Yl") "added medicines, fish scales and herbs."

414 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE COMPARISON WITH OTHER STUDIES Qatar and Yemen. The kohl samples from Yemen were found to be more likely to contain galena (eight of ten i.e., 80%) than those from Doha (six of 19 i.e., 32%). The Yemeni samples were also more likely to have no written labeling (seven of ten i.e., 70%, compared to one in 19 i.e., 5%, in Doha) and to be locally made (probably six of ten i.e., approx. 60%, as compared to none from Doha). Most (17 of 19 i.e., 90%) of the samples from Doha originated in India or Pakistan, compared to only 30% (i.e., three of ten) of those from Yemen. One sample from each country definitely originated in Saudi Arabia. Only in Yemen were definite "fake" samples found. However, the two "Hashmi Kajal" samples (one described as "fake" and one as "real") were found to be almost identical in their chemical composition. On the other hand, the "Hashmi Kohl Aswad" (made in India) had a chemical composition totally different from that found for the sample of the same name (but made in Pakistan, and having an "emblem of authenticity" on its packaging and so assumed to be the "real version") purchased in Doha (and also previ­ ously in the Emirates (2)). In general terms, Yemen is a less industrialized country than Qatar. Thus Yemen would perhaps be expected to have fewer imports and to make more use of local/near-local (i.e., southern Saudi Arabian) resources. Such resources would include naturally occurring galena (28). Previous studies. In Table IV are listed 18 publications of previous kohl analyses. They cover a 27-year period (1979-2006) and several analytical techniques (AA, CRM, SEM, and XRPD). The percentage range for the number of samples found to contain lead varies between 22% and 100%, with an "average" of 60%. There is some evidence to suggest, from analyses done several times in a country over a period of time (i.e., Greater Cairo in 1997 and Cairo in 2004, and Saudi Arabia in 1993, 1995 (twice), and 2004), that this percentage does decrease over time. However, further studies in other countries where analyses have already taken place are necessary before this positive effect can be confirmed. In Doha it was found that six (of 19) samples (i.e., 32%) contained lead sulfide. This percentage is very similar to those found previously in Oman (32%), Cairo (33%), Bahrain (33%), and the Emirates of Ras Al-Khaimah (36%) and of Dubai and Sharjah (38% each). It is also considerably lower that the "average" (60%) of Table IV. However, the percentage found for samples containing lead sulfide in Yemen (80%) is considerably higher than this "average," and is similar to the values found in one of the studies done in Saudi Arabia (75%), Karachi (Pakistan) (80%), and Kuwait (85%). As regards the importation of kohl samples (from India and Pakistan), the percentage imported to Qatar (90%) is much higher than that to Yemen (30% ). The former value is similar to those found by us in Dubai and Sharjah (81 % each), Ajman (86% ), and Abu Dhabi city (89% ), while the latter value is similar to the values found by us for Oman (40%) and Cairo (22%). Locally made kohl samples were found to be nonexistent in the souks of Doha, a result that is very similar to what was found in the souks of the UAE (United Arab Emirates)-one such sample was found overall, in Dubai. However, about 60% of the kohl samples found in Yemen were locally made-a finding that is similar to what was found in Cairo (61 %).