]. Cosmet. Sci., 59, 451-453 (September/October 2008) Abstracts International Journal of Cosmetic Science Vol. 30, No. 3, 2008* Evaluation of the effects of a preparation containing asiaticoside on periocular wrinkles of human volunteers J. Lee*, E. Jung•, H. Lee_, Y. Seo_, J. Koh_ and D. Park* *Biospectrum Life Science Institute, Gyunggi Do and Dermapro Skin Research Center, Seoul, Korea Deokhoon Park, Biospectrum Life Science Institute, SK Ventium 101-701, Dangjung Dong, Gunpo City, 436-776 Gyunggi Do, Korea. Tel.: +82 3 I 436 2090 fax: +82 31 436 0605 e-mail: pdh@biospectrum.com Skin ageing is accompanied by wrinkle formation. In particular, periorbital wrinkle formation is a relatively early sign of skin ageing. We evaluated the effects of a preparation containing asiaticoside on the periorbital wrinkles of a group of volunteers. The effectiveness of the active compound, asiaticoside, in a base-cream preparation for the treatment of temporal periorbital wrinkles was tested on 27 female volunteers as follows: the women applied the cream twice a day to the region of interest for 12 weeks. Same women also applied a vehicle control cream to the periorbital skin around the other eye. Negative replicas were taken of the periorbital skin before treatment and 4, 8, and 12 weeks after application of the cream. The results were evaluated by semi-automated morphometry of the plastic replicas. After 12 weeks of treatment, there was a significant improvement of the periorbital wrinkles in majority of the volunteers who tested the cream. Of the 27 women examined with periocular wrinkles, 65% showed an improvement at the end of the treatment. In three cases, the improvement was 100% (disappearance of the crow's feet), 75% ± 1.97 and 79% ± 2.82. On six eyes, there was no significant change after the treatment. With 12 weeks of treatment with the asiaticoside-containing cream, most of the periorbital wrinkles were attenuated to some degree, and some women experienced a significant improvement of the periorbital wrinkles on one of their eyes. Development of curcuminoids hydrogel patch using chitosan from various sources as controlled-release matrix P. Boriwanwattanarak•, K. lngkaninan _, N. Khorana_ and J. Viyoch*,_ *Department of Pharmaceutical Technology, Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Naresuan University, _Department of Pharmaceutical Chemistry and Pharmacognosy, Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Naresuan University and _Cosmetic and Natural Product Research Center, Naresuan University, Phitsanulok 65000, Thailand Jarupa Viyoch, Department of Pharmaceutical Technology, Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Naresuan University, Phitsanulok 65000, Thailand. Tel.: 66-055-621000-4, ext 1875 fax: 66-055-621057 e-mail: jarupav@nu.ac.th, j�r�m�v.@b9.tt:i:i.t.l.iL:9.m In this study, we developed the hydogel patch containing curcuminoids for application in cosmetic purpose. The powder of curcuminoids extracted from rhizome of Curcuma longa Linn. was first formulated into o/w microemulsions before incorporating into the polymer solution. The polymer solutions consisted of chitosan derived from various sources or the blended chitosan starch. We found that chitosan from squid pen gave the patch with highest strength and flexibility. After incorporation of curcuminoids microemulsion into the polymer solution of squid chitosan in ratio of 1 I by weight, values of tensile,strength and per cent elongation at break of the obtained patch decreased (from 4.55 ± 0.41 N mm)2 to 2.26 ± 0.01 N mm)2 for tensile strength and from 40.27 ± 1.46% to 29.65 ± 2.77% for elongation at break). The DSC thermogram of the squid patch containing curcuminoids implied non-crystalline structure of polymeric network, corresponding to porous characteristics of the patch surface. The results showed that the curcumin content remained at a concentration of 96% and 40% of the initial content after being kept at 4_C and room * These abstracts appear as they were originally published. They have been edited by the journal of Cosmetic Science. 451

452 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE temperature, respectively. When the patch was kept at 50_C, the remaining curcumin could not be detected. According to vertical diffusion cell method. we found a rapid rate of curcumin release from the patch. The curcumin release pattern, which fitted well to the Higuchi's model, exhibited two distinct phases: the rapid phase (0-15 min}, where the release rate of the curcumin averaged 0.74 lg min)I mm}2, and the slow phase (15- 120 min), where the release rate averaged O 13 lg min)I mm)2. Any sign of skin irritation was not observed in volunteers after single application of the curcuminoids patch in the under-eye area for 30 min. This finding indicates mildness to skin of the developed patch. Review Article Cosmetic features and applications of lipid nanoparticles (SLN_, NLC_) E. B. Souto* and R. H. Mu .. lier_ *Department of Phannaceutical Technology, Faculty of Health Sciences, Fernando Pessoa University, Rua Carlos da Maia, 296, 4200-150 Porto, Portugal and _Department of Phannacy, Phannaceutical Technology, Biophannaceutics and NutriCosmetics, Free University of Berlin, Kelchstr. 31, D-12169 Berlin, Gennany Eliana B. Souto, Department of Phannaceutical Technology, Faculty of Health Sciences, Fernando Pessoa University, Rua Carlos da Maia, 296, 4200-150 Porto, Portugal. Tel.: +351 225 074630 fax: +351 225 074637 e­ mail: eliana@ufp.pt A detailed review of the literature is presented in attempts to emphasize several advantages of solid lipid nanoparticles (SLN) and nanostructured lipid carriers (NLC) for cosmetic applications. Examples of several actives are given and the main features of the sol id core of SLN and NLC for topical delivery of cosmetics are discussed. Lipid nanoparticles have been more and more explored in phannaceutical technology, showing superior advantages for topical purposes over conventional colloidal carriers. Preparation and characterization of herbal creams for improvement of skin viscoelastic properties M. S. Ahshawat, S. Saraf and S. Saraf Institute of Phannacy, Pt. Ravishankar Shukla University, Raipur, Chhattisgarh 03132002, India Mahendra Ahshawat, Institute of Phannacy, Pt. Ravishankar Shukla University, Raipur, Chhattisgarh 03132002, India. Tel.: +91 294 2417170 fax: +91 294 2417170 e-mail: msaresearch@rcdiffma ii .com!swamlata sarafripredi ffmail .com The aim of this study was to fonnulate and evaluate herbal cosmetic creams for their improvement of skin viscoelastic and hydration properties. The cosmetic cream fonnulations were designed by using ethanolic extracts of Glycyrriza glabra, Curcuma longa (roots), seeds of Psorolea corlifolia, Cassia tora, Areca catechu, Punica granatum, fruits of Embel ica officinale, leaves of Centel la asiatica, dried bark of Cinnamon zeylanicum and fresh gel of Aloe vera in varied concentrations (0.12--0.9%w/w) and characterized using physicochemical and Physiological measurements. The ethanolic extracts of herbs were incorporated in a cream base that is prepared by a phase inversion emulsification technique. The cream base was prepared by utilizing oil of Prunus amagdalus, Sesamum indicum, honey, cetyl alcohol, stearic acid, polysorbate monoleate, sorbitan monostearate, propylene glycol and glycerin. Physicochemical assessments and microbiological testing were completed for all fonnulations according to the methods of the Indian Standard Bureau. The studies were carried out for 6 weeks on nonnal subjects (6 males and 12 females, between 22 and 50 years) on the back of their volar foreann for evaluation of viscoelastic properties in tenns of extensibility via a suction measurement, firmness using laboratory fabricated instruments such as ball bouncing and skin hydration using electric (resistance) measurement methods. The physicochemical parameters of fonnulations CAA1-CAA6, i.e. pH, acid value, saponification value, viscosity, spreadability, layer thickness microbial count and skin sensitivity were found to be in the range of 5 01 ± 0.4-6.07 ± 0.6, 3.3-5.1 ± 0.2, 20-32, 5900-6755 cps, 60-99%, 25-50 Im, 31-46 colony­ forming units (CFU) and a 0-1 erythema score. The fonnulations. CAA4 and CAA5, showed an increase in pt:n.:t:ntage extensibility (32.27 ± 1.7% and 29.89 ± ! .64%, respectively), firmness (28.86 ± 0.86% and 29.89 ± 2.8%, respectively) and improved skin hydration (15.97 ± 0.55 and 18.27 ± 0.99%, respectively) and were found more effective compared with the control product (C7) after the 6- week study. Poly(D,L-lactide) nanoencapsulation photoinactivation of a sunscreen agent to reduce M. Vettor*, P. Perugini•, S. Scalia_, B. Conti*, I. Genta•, T. Modena* and F. Pavanetto* *Department of Pharmaceutical Chemistry, School of Phannacy, University of Pavia, 27 l 00 Pavia and _ Department of Phannaceutical Sciences, School of Phannacy, University of Ferrara, 44100 Ferrara, Italy Dr Manuela Vettor, Department of Phannaceutical Chemisty, University of Pavia, V.le Taramelli 12, 27100 Pavia, Italy. Tel.: +39 038 2987363 fax +39 038 2422975 e-mail: manucla. vettor(wunipv. it The use of sunscreens is the 'gold standard' for protecting the skin from ultraviolet light. Octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC) is one of the most widely used UVB filter but it can act as a sensitizer or photoallergen. When exposed to sunlight, OMC can change from the primary trans-fonn to cisforrn and the isomerization, not reversible, conducts to a reduction of the UVB filtering efficiency because the trans­ fonn has a higher extinction coefficient. Photostability is the most important characteristic of effective sunscreens and it can be influenced by fonnulation ingredients and by applying technological strategies. In this work, photostability experiments, performed on emulsion- gels containing different percentages of OMC free or loaded in poly(d,1-lactide) nanoparticles, were carried out. The presence of a polymeric envelop may act to protect the active ingredient. In this study, the influence of poly(d,1- lactide) matrices on. the photochemical stability of the