456 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE A New Water-in-Powder Technology: A Novel Structure for Creating Unique Cosmetic Products Keiji Igarashi, Keisuke Sagara, and Junichiro Egawa Research and Development Division, KOSE Corporation, 48-18 Sakae-cho, Kita-ku, Tokyo, 114- 0005, Japan A water-in-powder cosmetic is one in which a large amount of water is encapsulated in a powder. In this study we describe the development of this type of cosmetic. We first focused on the hydrophilic/hydrophobic balance of the nano-sized powder surface. We looked at surface state of powders in the gas adsorption test and discovered functional powders that have an optimized balance of hydrorepellency and hydrophilicity due to fractal surface and free hydroxyl groups, respectively. Using this material we created a new powder technology that can encapsulate a large quantity of water in a stable structure. We also looked at how the powders encapsulated water by observing them with wet-SEM and how the encapsulated water is stabilized by measuring the water mobility with 17O-NMR. Based on these result, we developed a new technology with water and powder. By encapsulating a large amount of water, we achieved a cosmetic with many unique characteristics: The powder cosmetic can become a liquid by application of friction on skin, it is convenient to use and provides moist, cool feel. It also functions as an excellent makeup by spreading smoothly on skin to form a uniform makeup coating. Coenzyme Ql0 Has Anti-Aging Effects on Human Hair Melanie Giesen*, Thomas WelB*, Erik Schulze zur Wieschet, Volker Schememannt, Sabine Gruedl*, Yasmin Oezkabakcioglu*, Elisabeth Poppet, Dirk Petersohn* * Phenion GmbH & Co. KG, 40225 D0sseldorf, Germany t Hans Schwarzkopf & Henkel GmbH & Co. KG, 22763 Hamburg, Germany Ubiquinones are the most widespread and therefore best investigated bioquinones. Due to their hydrophobic isoprenoid side chain, ubiquinones can be solubilized in organic solvents or lipids but are insoluble in water. Using a specific emulsifier system it has been possible to deliver positive effects to biological systems also from aqueous formulations. Ubiquinone-50, also referred to as coenzyme Ql0, is well known in cosmetic science and especially in skin care because of its antioxidant activity. It is found in the membranes of. peroxisomes, lysosomes, vesicles, the endoplasmic reticulum and notably in the inner membrane of the mitochondrion, where it is an important part of the electron transport chain. Using coenzyme Ql0 in the proposed emulsifier system we could show that the molecule not only has relevance as an anti-aging bioactive in skin care but also has positive effects on the human hair follicle. The hair follicle is a complex mini organ and synthesis of hair keratin, the major component of hair fibers, is an essential prerequisite for the growth of strong and healthy hair. But like all biological systems the hair follicle, the biologically active part of the hair, also undergoes an aging process associated among other things with a decline in certain hair keratins. Due to this age-related shift in basic structural proteins of the hair shaft, mature hair often becomes fragile and difficult to manage. Therefore it is a challenge for cosmetic science to provide bioactives to fight age-related changes and maintain a youthful appearance of hair. Using cultivated hair follicle keratinocytes we identified coenzyme Q 10 as a potent bioactive that stimulates the gene expression of different hair keratins, especially those which are reduced during aging processes in hair follicles. These results led us to investigate a shampoo and a tonic formulation enriched with coenzyme Ql0 in a placebo­ controlled panel study. In a left/right comparison a group of healthy volunteers older than 40 years of age applied the formulations daily for four days. Throughout the test period the gene expression of different hair keratins from plucked hair follicles was determined using quantitative polymerase chain reaction techniques. Subsequent statistical analysis revealed an increase in age-relevant hair keratins in human hair roots treated with coenzyrne Ql0, thus pointing out the striking benefits of coenzyme Q 10 in hair care formulations. We conclude that coenzyme Q 10 is an ideal ingredient for hair care formulations, providing anti-aging properties through activation of specific keratins aligned with the needs of mature hair. Therapy Makeup Improves Quality of Life of Patients with Skin Diseases- Covering Fouooations Created by Integration of Medical and Beauty Care for Severe Skin Color Problems Yoshinori Sagehashi '), Akira Ito 2 ), Tatsuya Ohtake 1 , Masahiro Nakamura '), Katsuhiko Yagi 2 ), Katsuki Ogawa 2 , Tomoyuki Katsuyama 2 , Mari Yoshida 2 , Kimiko Oshiro 3 . and Wakae Aoki 3 1 Shiseido Research Center, 2-2-1 Hayabuchi, Tsuzuki­ ku, Yokohama, 224-8558, Japan 2 Pierre Fabre Japon Co.,Ltd., 6-8-8 Akasaka, Minato-ku, Tokyo, 107-0052, Japan 3 Beauty Solution Development Center, Shiseido CO., LTD., 7-5-5 Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo, 104-00 61 , Japan In collaboration with medical institutions, we have been providing makeup guidance to people with facial skin olor problems under the name »therapy makeup«. The aim of therapy makeup is to reduce the anxiety and ension associated with the appearance of people with skin color problems and to provide psychological support, thereby helping them live more normal lives. Ota's nevus (blue birthmarks) and port-wine stain (red birthmarks) the leading causes of abnormal skin coloration. We have already developed covering foundations for Ota's nevus and port-wine stain using a light-filtering technology. Another common cause of abnormal skin coloration is vitiligo (white patches). Vitiligo cannot be adequately covered by conventional cosmetic foundations. Therefore, we developed a new covering foundation for vitiligo based on optical characteristics. Moreover, the effects of makeup on the psychology of patients with vitiligo were objectively evaluated using psychometrically established quality of life indices. It was demonstrated that makeup helped to alleviate the psychological anxiety and tension of patients, resulting in improvement of social relationships and self-esteem. The integration of medical care and beauty care enables therapy makeup to improve quality of life of patients with skin color disorders.

]. Cosmet. Sci., 59, 457-458 (September/October 2008) Abstracts SOFW Journal Wydanie Polskie, including Journal of the Polish Society of Cosmetic Chemists, "Wiadomosci PTK" Vol. 1, No. 2, 2008* Nanotechnology. The technology of the future. Does it have a future in cosmetics? Ewa Starzyk 1 • 3 ,Anna Frydrych 2 • 3, Aleksandra Solyga 4 1 Polish Union of Private Employers of the Cosmetics Industry, 2 Dermika Ltd, 3 Academy of Cosmetics and Health Care, Warsaw, Poland 4 Cosmetic Laboratory Dr Irena Eris S.A., Poland Nanotechnology and nanomaterials are matters of great relevance and importance these days for many sectors including the cosmetics industry. The number of practical applications on the new findings is growing rapidly in this relatively young discipline. On the other hand the number of concerns related to the safety of nanotechnology and nanomaterials for human health and the environment rises even more quickly. What is a bit surprising, most of the reports dealing with the risks of nanomaterials use in cosmetics describe these risks as potential and do not provide with relevant proof. The number of nanomaterials' applications in cosmetics is still relatively limited. However, further development may be restricted by future legal regulations. Provisions concerning the safety assessment of nanomaterials will probably be addressed in the new EU regulation on cosmetic products that is currently in preparation. For this reason it is of importance for all the players in the cosmetics industry to follow the data published on the safety of nanomaterials as well as to monitor legislative initiatives in the field. On the other hand, psychometric studies show a strong correlation of public perception of hazards related to new technologies including nanotechnology with regulatory actions taken by governmental agencies. Is there a real risk that nanotechnology becomes a synonym of a "new menace" in the eyes of the public as it has already occurred in the case of genetic engineering and its application to food? Natural anti-aging ingredients from unsaponifiable fraction of plant oils Katarzyna Pytkowska, Jacek Arct Academy of Cosmetics and Health Care, Warsaw Poland A number of plant oils used in cosmetics for years contain only small amounts of valuable from dermatological point of view fatty acids, although their usefulness is beyond discussion. The classical example yet is cold-pressed olive oil, in which the high content of precious unsaponifiable fraction (i.e. squalene) prevails over not very advantageous for skin effect of oleic acid. Cosmetic activity of non-glyceride fractions of oils was the subject of the thorough studies. Except for the studies over the influence of these substances on moisturization, oiliness and skin elasticity, also specific activity in reference to particular elements of skin structure was measured. In vitro studies carried out in various scientific centres exhibited the impact of isolated unsaponifiable fractions (obtained from i.e. soybean oil, avocado oil and cocoa butter) on human fibroblasts proliferation Moreover, intensification of collagen synthesis was also proved. However, it was not fund out, which ingredients of the unsaponifiable fractions exhibited such activity in vivo effects were not studied either. The situation within the studies on antiradical and UV protection looks similar - for many unsaponifiable fractions , the protective activity was confirmed, but the efficacies of particular compounds were not the subjects of studies. What is more, the compounds were not even identified. There is certainly many synergisms within the range of protective activity as well as the influence of skin structures, which make that the unsaponifiable fractions as mixtures of biologically active substances will remain the inexhaustible source of cosmetic raw materials for many years. * These abstracts appear as they were originally published. They have not been edited by the journal of Cosmetic Science. 457