ABSTRACTS 453 sunscreen agent was investigated. As highlighted in this study, free OMC in different fonnulations has different photoisomerization degree. Moreover, a dissimilar behaviour was observed by studying different s unscreen concentrations in the same cosmetic fonnulation. Photostability results show a significant reduction in photoisomerization degree for fonnulations containing sunscreen loaded in nanopanicles, highlighting that the encapsulation is a suitable strategy to improve OMC photostability. Moreover, sun protection factor (SPF) results show that the UVB filter protective power is also maintained after encapsulation. Combined retinol-lactose-glycolic acid effects on photoaged skin: a double-blind placebo-controlled study C. Bertin*, H. Zunino*, M. Lanctin*, G.N. Stamatas*, E. Camel_, C. Robert_ and N. Issachar* * Johnson & Johnson Consumer France, 1 rue Camille Desmoulins, 92787 lssy­ les-Moulineaux, _IEC, 88 Boulevard des Beiges, 69006 Lyon and _Institut Gustave Roussy, Villejuif, France C. Bertin, Johnson & Johnson Consumer France, 1 rue Camille Desmoulins, 92787 Issy-les-Moulineaux, France. Tel.: +33 1 55 00 47 33 fax: +33 1 55 00 24 00 e-mail: cbertin@jnjfr.jnj.com The objective of this study was to assess the efficacy of the combination of retinol, lactose and glycolic acid applied topically on photodamaged skin. Forty female volunteers were enrolled in a doubleblind, randomized placebo­ controlled clinical study. A cream containing retinol, lactose and glycolic acid was applied on one side of the face and a placebo cream on the other side, twice daily for 12 weeks. Skin photoageing signs were assessed clinically, whereas skin microrelief and moisturization were measured instrumentally. Both the clinical assessment and the objective instrumental measurements revealed that the active-treated side was significantly improved at the end of the study compared with baseline and control-treated side. In conclusion, our results demonstrate that topical application of a combination of retinol, lactose and glycolic acid has significantly improved the appearance of photodamaged skin. Synthesis of new antioxidant conjugates and their in vitro hydrolysis with Stratum comeum enzymes M. Gelo-Pujic*, J.-R. Desmurs"' l, S. Delaire_, A. Adao_ and D. Tawil_"'Rhodia CRTL, 85 rue des fre'res Perret, 69192 Saint Fons cedex, _Chanel Parfums Beaute·, 135 Avenue Charles de Gaulle, 92521 Neuilly sur Seine cedex and Cosmetic Research Center, Chanel Parfums Beaute·, Sophia Antipolis, France Mirjana Gelo-Pujic, Rhodia CRTL, 85 rue des fre'res Perret, 69192 Saint Fons cedex, France. Tel.: +33 4 72 89 69 88 fax: +33 4 72 89 67 24 e-mail: mirjana.gelo­ pujic@eu.rhodia.com The aim of this study was to synthesize new precursors, combinations of well-known antioxidant molecules: resveratrol, lipoic acid and vitamin E to improve their photo-stability and to modulate their lipophylic character. Active antioxidants are available through a controlled release by the action of skin enzymes upon a topic application. Two conjugates are described, the combinations of resveratrol-lipoic acid (6) and resveratrol­ vitamin E (IO). Both compounds are new molecules. This work describes their synthesis, characterization, stability study and in vitro biohydrolysis. Stratum comeum enzymes efficiently hydrolysed in vitro precursor 6 and liberate both active molecules, resveratrol and lipoic acid over the period of 72 h. Precursor l O was hydrolysed in vitro by combination of Stratum comeum enzymes and the cholesterol esterase. A simple technique of preparation of the human Stratum comeum hydrolases is also described.

]. Cosmet. Sci.J 59, 455-456 (September/October 2008) Abstracts IFSCC Magazine Vol. 11, No. 1, 2008* ,Luctor et Emergo' Luigi Rigano L. Rigano Laboratories, Miano, Italy 'Luctor et emergo' means to struggle, fight or wrestle in order to come up, win or just emerge and survive. It was adopted as a national motto by the Zeeland region in Holland to underline their daily battle with high tides. Indeed, this Latin motto effectively illustrates the struggle to make things work, that is to overcome all difficulties and hurdles and make everything flow smoothly at the end. Therefore, it applies appropriately to our subheading: 'all battles and bridges between the language of marketing and product formulation'. What are the main causes of misunderstanding or hindrances between marketing and the formulator? Could common objectives overcome such gaps? How can we establish bridges with a view to enhancing creative cooperation? Finally, would it be possible to find solutions which can provide a mutual cross-fertilization? The following humorous example will make the problem clear. The scene is a kitchen where we see an old and ugly couple. The husband asks his wife, who is holding a tin can: »Would you like some tuna fish?« She answers: »No, I would like to be naked in bed with Kevin Costner in Jamaica«. This is obviously a dialogue of the deaf, where both speak only apparently the same language. In fact, they fail to convey what they really mean. This signifies that they are not on the same wavelength, they do not refer to the same code of speech to communicate and it seems impossible for them to understand each other. How can we make ourselves understood when communication is sometimes so difficult and work out appropriate solutions when we put R&D and Marketing at two poles of a commurication scheme? Small Proteoglycans in the Skin: New Targets in the Fight against Skin Aging Gilles Pauly1, Jean-Luc Contet-Audonneau1, Philippe Moussou1, Louis Danoux1, Vincent Bardey1, Olga Freis1, Melanie Sabadotto1, Yanusz Wegrowski2, Franyois-Xavier Maquart2, and Andreas Rathjens1 1 Cognis France, Division Laboratoires Serobiologiques, 3 rue de Seichamps, 54425 Pulnoy, France 2 Laboratoire de Biochimie et Biologie Moleculaire, CNRS UMR 6198, IFR 53-Biomolecules, Faculte de Medecine, Universite de Reims-Champagne-Ardenne, 51 rue Cognacq Jay, 51095 Reims Cedex, France Proteoglycans take an important part in tissue homeostasis. In the skin, Proteoglycans are present in the extracellular matrix of dermis, particularly with lumican which plays an important role in dermal homeostasis. In the epidermis, several small proteoglycans such as the syndecans are synthesized and play an important role in keratinocyte activation. There is much data on the alteration during skin aging of the synthesis and structure of glycosaminoglycans and some proteoglycans but little information on small proteoglycans, in particular lumican and syndecan-1. We recently observed a decrease in the synthesis of these two small proteoglycans with aging. We confirm in this work the decrease in lumican in dermis and syndecan-1 in epidermis with aging. These proteoglycans represent original important targets for cosmetology in the fight against skin aging. In different in vitro models, two synthetic acetyl tetrapeptides, AcTPl and AcTP2, stimulate the synthesis of lumican and syndecan-1, respectively. The beneficial action of AcTPI on skin thickness and firmness and of AcTP2 on epidermal cohesion has been confirmed in vivo. * These abstracts appear as they were originally published. They have not been edited by the Journal of Cosmetic Science. 455