j. Cosmet. Sci., 59, 527-528 (November/December 2008) Abstracts IFSCC Magazine Vol. 11, No. 2, 2008* Exfoliation for Sensitive Skin with Neutralized Salicylic Acid? Eve Merinville1 , Aurelie Laloeuf', Garrett Moran 1, Olivia Jalby1, Anthony V. Rawlings2 1 Oriflame Ltd, Bray, Ireland 2 A VR Consulting Ltd, Northwich, Cheshire, UK Hydroxy acids enjoy tremendous interest in cosmetology thanks to their skin anti-aging and water barrier enhancing activities. One of their actions is to promote the natural stratum comeum (stratum comeum) desquamatory process. However, their use is limited due to an inherent pH-related irritancy potential which is even more exacerbated on sensitive skin. Clearly there is an opportunity for improvement. In this research we evaluated in humans the efficacy of salicylic acid, and its salts, as a comeodesmolytic agent using the dihydroxyacetone method and measuring the reduction in skin staining with treatment over time using a chromameter. Salicylic acid at 2% in a preparation of pH 3.12 significantly increased exfoliation by 10.9% compared with placebo (p0.05), confirming its desquamatory enhancing properties. Then the effect of vehicle cream pH on salicylic acid activity was studied. Salicylic acid at close to neutral pH (mostly in its neutralized form as salicylate, pH 6.50) exerted a comeodesmolytic activity as good as that of salicylic acid in an acidic vehicle (pH 3.12) after only two days of application. Furthermore, the performance of glycolic acid and salicylic acid salts as exfoliants were compared at pH 6.50. When these two hydroxyl acids were formulated at the same molar level in a cosmetic base (14.47mM), the salicylic acid preparation gave an 8.2% increase in stratum comeum desquamation compared with the glycolic acid preparation (p0.05). The comeodesmolytic effects were confirmed using a tape-stripping assay combined with a quantitative protein assay. Neutralized salicylic acid was found to enhance the removal of stratum comeum proteins significantly more than the vehicle after 25 sequential tape strippings (14% p0.05). Finally, salicylic acid had no significant influence on skin water barrier properties after 22 days of treatment. In the second phase of this research we assessed the suitability of neutralized salicylic acid as an ingredient for sensitive skin. A stinging test was performed according to the Frosch & Kligman method to evaluate the influence of the formulation base-pH on stinging potential. Salicylic acid formulated at pH 6.50 induced no stinging sensation (score 0) in contrast to salicylic acid at pH 3.12 (score 19 p0.05). In addition, a clinical study was conducted to assess the erythema induced on volunteers' cheeks after a single application of a neutralized salicylic acid (1 %) formulation compared with placebo. Visual redness was assessed by a dermatologist and then measured with a Mexameter. No significant differences were observed. Moreover, half of the panel had sensitive skin and no correlation could be established between redness and/or abnormal sensation and sensitive skin. In conclusion, neutralized salicylic acid at a 1 % concentration is a suitable exfoliant agent for subjects with sensitive skin. Design and Evaluation of a Photoprotective Compound Able to Release Taurine under Conditions of Oxidative Stress Patrick Lafitte1 , Lionel Valenti2, Lydia Casciani2, Thierry Hoarau 1 , Erika Lomonte2, Frederic Maccario2, and Jean­ Frarn;:ois Nicolas' 1 Exsymol S.A.M., 4 Av. Albert II, 98000 Monaco 2 Sedifa Laboratories, 4 Av. Albert II, 98000 Monaco A novel photoprotective ingredient with antioxidant and electrophilic scavenging properties was designed. A structure-activity relationship study was conducted in order to optimize its bioavailability, specifically its ability to reach deep layers of the skin that may be affected by ultraviolet radiation-induced oxidative stress. A particular characteristic of this compound is its ability to release taurine upon reaction with some reactive oxygen species. In situ taurine formation may contribute to photoprotection. Preliminary in vitro experiments provide some evidence for * These abstracts appear as they were originally published. They have not been edited by the journal of Cosmetic Science. 527

528 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE effective protection against UV A-induced oxidative stress. Scavenging of the electrophilic species 4-hydroxynonenal, a highly cytotoxic end product of membrane lipid peroxidation, seems to be 2-oxo-1,3-thiazolidine major photoprotective mechanism. Determination of the Feel of Hair after Cosmetic Treatment - Sensory and Objective Test Methods U. Assmus (Reichardt International AG), P. Augustin (DWI), H. Hensen (Cognis), P. Hosse] (BASF), G. Lang (Procter & Gamble, Wella), H. Leidreiter (Degussa), A Markowetz (Procter & Gamble), V. Martin (Zschimmer & Schwarz), B. Noecker (KPSS), E. Poppe (Henkel­ Schwarzkopf), M. Pfaffemoschke (National Starch), H. Schmidt-Lewerki.ihne, Chairman (Beiersdorf), E. Schulze­ zur-Wiesche (Henkel & Schwarzkopf), A Schwan-Jonczyk (Procter & Gamble, Wella), J. Wood (KPSS), F.-J. Wortmann (Univ. Manchester) * * DGK Working Group - Hair Treatments This work was performed in the period from 2002 to 2006. The feel of natural and damaged hair was studied after treatment with classical conditioning formulations. A cetrimonium chloride/cetyl alcohol conditioner and shampoos based on sodium lauryl ether sulfate and polyquaternium-10 or dimethiconol, respectively, were used. In addition to a broad-based round robin test to determine the hair feel in 12 test centers, suppleness measurements, atomic force microscopy and scanning electron microscopy, combing force measurements and shine measurements were performed. The cetrimonium chloride conditioner and the silicone shampoo produced the best hair feel. There was a correlation between hair feel and the suppleness measurement. The coating of the hair surface after shampooing with polyquatemium-10 and dimethiconol could be seen with atomic force microscopy and scanning electron microscopy. There was no correlation of the hair feel with shine or ease of combing. Cuticular Damage to African-American Hair During Relaxer Treatments -A Microtluorometric and SEM Study Sigrid B. Ruetsch, Binhua Yang and Yash K Karnath TRI/Princeton, PO Box 625, Princeton, NJ 08542, USA In earlier publications [1,2,3] we discussed several in-depth studies of characterization and quantification of damage done to European dark brown hair fibers by photochemical and cosmetic-chemical oxidation (bleaching) and reduction (perming) processes. These earlier studies established considerable changes in surface chemistry such as an increase in acidity and hydrophilicity. We discussed in detail the breakdown of the lipid domains (delipidation) of the outer □-layer of the exposed scale faces and generation of anionic (sulfonic acid) groups (acidification) on the hair surface caused by these oxidative and reduction processes. The goal of this current study is to characterize and quantify the level of chemical and physical changes in the surface of African-American hair caused by various »lye­ based« and »no-lye« relaxer treatments [4]. This study attempts to establish which product delivers the best »hair straightening« performance while resulting in the least chemical and physical changes in the hair surface. We again use a microfluorometric technique with the help of the cationic fluorochrome Rhodamine B to detect, map and quantify relaxer-induced changes in the surface chemistry of human hair fiber. In addition, we also use SEM at various magnifications to highlight relaxer-induced changes in the physical nature of the hair surface. We attempt to associate the level of increase in fluorescence intensity, which represents an increased level of delipidation/acidification of the hair surface, with the damage level to the hair topography, and thus, determine the least damaging cosmetic chemical process. Damage to the physical nature of the hair topography as observed by SEM shows a clear difference between treatments involving lab-made relaxer solutions and commercial relaxer systems. A Highly Sensitive Method to Determine the Washing Resistance of Artificial Hair Colors Erik Schulze zur Wiesche*, Siglinde Erpenbach ** *Henkel AG & Co. KGaA, 22763 Hamburg, Germany ** Henkel AG & Co. KGaA, 40191 Di.isseldorf, Germany Due to the improved performance of modem hair colorants, the high natural variability in hair qualities and the individual influences of manual product applications, color care effects of cosmetic treatments are very difficult to detect. A new, highly sensitive test method to study the color fading behavior of human hair was established for a large variety of cosmetic treatments. This method is based on an automatic multistage application of standard wool tissues combined with automatic color evaluation by means of CIE L*a*b* measurements (DIN 5033). The delta E values are the main interest because they include all information regarding the L (black vs. white), a (red-green) and b (blue-yellow) axes defined in the Hunter Lab color space. For validation of this new method, different permanent and non-permanent hair color shades were applied to undamaged light brown Caucasian hair strands. The hair strands were washed manually stepwise 30 times and the color loss compared with the results obtained on wool tissues using an automatic application system. For most of the investigated hair colors, a coefficient of determination of r20.99 was achieved. Modem permanent hair colors show a high resistance to cosmetic treatments. Over 90% of the initial color result was retained after 30 product applications. Shampoo and conditioner formulations induce different degrees of color loss in hair. In basic formulas significant influences of single surfactants could be detected. The new method using wool tissues correlates very well with that using manually washed Caucasian hair strands. This automatic method is very time-effective and offers an excellent reproducibility with a high sensitivity for assessing product influences on artificial hair colors.