544 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE Protein carbonylation and skin transparency, 246, 248 Proteoglycans and skin aging, 455 Psorolea corlif olia seed extract cosmetic properties of, 452 Psychological evaluation fragrances, 75 Psychological factors makeup, 117, 450 Psychological stress effect on skin, 91 Punica granatum extract cosmetic properties of, 452 Raman microscopy skin, 250 Resveratrol-lipoic acid conjugate antioxidant activity of, 453 Resveratrol-tocopherol conjugate antioxidant activity of, 453 Retinol chitosan microcapsules, 78 Retinol-lactose-glycolic acid cream treatment for photodamaged skin, 453 Review articles cosmetic history, 333 delivery systems, 250 hair pigmentation, 523 lipid nanoparticles, 452 pores, 161 reflectance-mode confocal microscopy, 249 skin aging, 333 skin nanostructure, 73 wrinkle evaluation, 160 Safety of sunscreens, 165 Salicylic acid in exfoliation, 527 Sensory analysis and cosmetics, 79 Silicone gels formulation of, 368 Silicone polymers and hair damage, 94 Sirtuins overview, 86 Skin and atomic force microscopy, 225 and botanical extracts, 354 cleansing, 79 dry skin evaluation method, 253 ethnic properties, 177, 178 and fragrance materials, 7 4 immunological barrier of, 90 lactic acid, 7 4 nanostructure, 73 optical properties of, 246, 249, 250 and protein carbonylation, 246, 249, 250 removal of pathogens from, 376 surface analysis of, 71 stinging potential in, 7 4 UV-induced immune suppression, 92 Skin aging and decorin, 164 and proteoglycans, 455 review article, 333 Skin barrier and two-photon fluorescence microscopy, 263 Skin barrier recovery and Betula platyphylla sap, 449 semi-permeable membranes effect on, 378 and soybean phytosterols, 217, 217 Skin care molecular modeling, 82 Skin cleansers irritancy testing, 524 Skin color image analysis, 71 Skin damage and hand sanitizers, 172 and sub-erythemal UV exposure, 170 Skin exfoliants perfluoropolyether phosphate, 75 salicylic acid, 527 Skin immune protection photoprotection, 168 Skin irritation testing review, 175 Skin lighteners Arctocarpus incisus, 41 filamentous fungi, 157 N-glycosylation inhibitors, 139 hydroquinone, 72 4-hydroxy-5-methyl-3[2H]-furanone, 117 Nymphea alba extract, 347 peptide hormone, 190 sodium palmitoylproline, 347 zinc(Il)-glycine complex, 334 Skin lipids overview, 163 Skin model immune-sensitive compounds, 157 Skin moisturization hormonal links, 77 Skin penetration by copper peptide complexes, 59 by ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, 385 overview, 158 by parabens, 73 Skin pigmentation botanical effects on, 184 Skin properties and Betula platyphylla sap, 449 and lutein, 337

SUBJECT INDEX 545 Skin surface analysis, 71 Skin testing Fourier domain optical coherence tomography, 449 and immune-sensitive compounds, 157 skin irritation protocols, 175 and sub-erythemal UV exposure, 170 Skin tone botanical effects on, 184 and micro lens technology, 186 and peptide hormone, 190 Skin transparency and protein carbonylation, 246, 249, 250 Sodium palmitoylproline as skin lightener, 347 Soybean phytosterols in skin barrier recovery, 217 SPF testing in vitro method, 166, 524 microbial assessment of sunscreens, 291 Sphingomyelinase activity botanical extracts, 354 Streptomyces hiroshimensis tyrosinase inhibition by, 33 Stress and acne, 246 Sub-erythemal UV exposure evaluation of, 170 Sun care oral, 166 Sunless tanning polymers in, 188 Sunscreens analysis, 469 black tea extracts in, 159 cationic emulsions, 382 microbial assessment of, 291 nanoencapsulation in, 452 nanostructured lipid carriers in, 161 oleuropein in, 334 particle size in, 160 permeation from O/W emulsions, 251 photoprotection of, 168 polymer-zinc oxide composite in, 450 safety aspects of, 165 skin penetration, 385 SPF testing of, 166, 524 sub-erythemal damage protection by, 170 water-resistance testing of, 159 Surfactants amino acid based, 458 Synthesis ( of) fragrance alcohols, 335 resveratrol-lipoic acid conjugate, 453 resveratrol-tocopherol conjugate, 453 Tamarind extract skin delivery of, 525 Tocopherol chitosan microcapsules, 78 Toothpaste diethylene glycol in, 246 Transcinnamyl alcohol synthesis, 335 Trichoderma fungi skin lightening by, 157 Triclosan in dentifrices, 73 Tripeptide-10 citrulline collagen fibrilogenesis, 334 Two-photon fluorescence microscopy and skin barrier perturbation, 263 Tyrosinase inhibition by Arbutus andrachne, 523 by Arctocarpus incisus, 41 in skin lightening, 117,139,157 by Streptomyces hiroshimensis, 33 Ultraviolet radiation and black tea extracts, 159 and hair, 94 and hair damage, 151, 303, 365 and hair porosity, 303 in immune suppression, 92 and microbial assessment of sunscreens, 291 and nucleic acids, 80 and sub-erythemal damage, 170 Unsaponifiable plant oils antiaging effects of, 457 UVA testing in vivo, 160 persistent pigment darkening method, 160 UV stabilization by isosorbide, 84 Vitamin K analysis, 459 Water absorption by hair, 164 Water-in-powder technology formulation, 455 W /0 emulsions hybrid polymers, 158 Zinc(ll)-glycine complex as skin lightener, 334 Zinc pyrithione deposition of, 99