415 THE EFFECT OF VEGETABLE OIL COMPOSITION properties was the fatty acid chain length composition of the oil, more precisely the per- centage of fatty acid chain with a length of 18 carbons. Above 90% of fatty acid chain with a length of 18 carbons in the oil, the optimal ratio was 7:3, below 90% the optimal ratio was 8:2. In the literature, the fatty acid chain length in the oil is described as possi- ble parameter modifying the orientation of the platelet crystals inside the liquid oil giv- ing rise to different rheological properties (39). The different orientation of the platelet crystals formed by the oleogelator system could lead to a modification of the distribution of the crystalline material inside the oil, resulting in different rheological properties as a function of the oil. To verify this hypothesis, complementary measurements would be necessary in order to use the model developed by Miyazaki and Marangoni based on the cellular solid approach of Gibson and Ashby (47,48). This model was successfully applied to different oleogels to explain the relationship between the mechanical properties of oleogels and their microstructure (20,48). As perspective also to continue this work, it would be interesting to study the effect of minor polar compounds of each oil by removing them as described recently by Scharfe et al. (37). By removing these polar compounds, it would be possible to understand their effect on the BO/BA oleogelator system in terms of oleogel structures and properties (38). Our results obtained with cosmetic grade raw materials have practical applications for the cosmetic industry since it shows how to obtain the best oleogels in terms of texture and stability, and then to use them to produce oil foams (11,40). As a function of the fatty acid chain length composition of the oil, the ratio between BO and BA can be adjusted in order to tune the oleogel properties. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS This research was supported by L’OREAL R&I. REFERENCES (1) E. D. Co and A. G. Marangoni, Organogels: an alternative edible oil-structuring method, J. Am. Oil. Chem. Soc., 89, 749–780 (2012). (2) A.G. Marangoni and N. Garti, Edible Oleogels: Structure and Health Implications (AOC Press, San Diego, CA, 2018). (3) M. Suzuki and K. Hanabusa, Polymer organogelators that make supramolecular organogels through physical cross-linking and self-assembly, Chem. Soc. Rev., 39, 455–463 (2010). (4) T. Dürrschmidt and H. Hoffmann, Organogels from ABA triblock copolymers, Colloid. Polym. Sci., 279, 1005–1012 (2001). (5) M. Davidovich-Pinhas, S. Barbut, and A. G. Marangoni, The gelation of oil using ethyl cellulose, Car- bohydr. Polym., 117, 869–878 (2015). (6) M. Hermansson, The fluidity of hydrocarbon regions in organo-gels, studied by NMR: basic trans- lational and rotational diffusion measurements, Colloids Surfaces A Physicochem, Eng. Asp., 154, 303–309 (1999). (7) M. A. Rogers and R. G. Weiss, Systematic modifications of alkane-based molecular gelators and the consequences to the structures and properties of their gels, New. J. Chem., 39, 785–799 (2015). (8) R.G. Weiss and P. Terech, Molecular Gels, Kluwer Aca (Kluwer Academic Publishers, Dordrecht, the Netherlands, 2006). (9) M. Zhang and R.G. Weiss, Self-assembled networks and molecular gels derived from long-chain, naturally-occurring fatty acids, J. Braz. Chem. Soc., 27, 239–255 (2016). (10) A.-L. Fameau and M.A. Rogers, The curious case of 12-hydroxystearic acid–the Dr. Jekyll & Mr. Hyde of molecular gelators, Curr. Opin. Colloid Interface Sci., 45, 68–82 (2020).

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