432 Address all correspondence to Virendra S Ligade at virendra123sl@gmail.com. J. Cosmet. Sci., 72, 432–441 (July/August 2021) History of Cosmetic in Egypt, India, and China MANJULA NAYAK AND VIRENDRA S. LIGADE Department of Pharmacy Management, Manipal College of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Manipal Academy of Higher Education, Manipal, Karnataka 576104, India Accepted for publication May 13, 2021. Synopsis Cosmetics are preparations used to improve and enhance human appearance. The concept of beauty and cosmetics is as ancient as mankind and civilization. The use of plants and herbs for cosmetics was started in ancient times. Egyptians believed that healing plants possess supernatural power. Herbs used for cosmetics in China are popular and are biologically active in today’s cosmetics. The most commonly used herb, as a cosmetic in India, is turmeric, which is still in use as the beauty routine before the wedding. In Egypt, around 10,000 BCE both men and women were using scented oils and ointments to clean their skin and mask body odor. The use of cosmetics in India dates backs to the Vedic and Puranic periods. Due to the increased consciousness about beauty, demand for the products is increasing, which results in the growth of the cosmetic industry. INTRODUCTION Cosmetics are an intrinsic part of health and hygiene. Men and women used scented ointments to cleanse their skin and also to mask body odor and decorate one’s face or body. The historical data points to the existence of such practices are as early as about 10,000 BCE (1). In ancient India, there is high evidence that both men and women were using cosmetics. The use of cosmetics had started from Ramayana, Mahabharata, Vedic, and Puranic periods (2). Various cosmetics, which were used in the olden days, are still used in present days such as turmeric and sandalwood for skincare, henna for coloring the palms and hairs, etc. Turmeric has been in use in India as cosmetics, home remedies, and medicines until recently before the entry of herbal and synthetic skin cosmetics in the market (3). This review paper summarizes the evolution of the preparation of cosmetic products, hygiene tools, perfumes, and other personal care items throughout history in ancient China, India, and Egypt. EYE CARE, MAKEUP, AND PLANT USED FOR EYE CARE Eye care in ancient Egypt. Egyptians used to line their eyes and eyebrows with kohl eyeliner (4). In the early 20th dynasty (1187–1064 BCE) soot kohl was produced by burning the

433 HISTORY OF COSMETIC plant called qurtum (Carthamus tinctorius) and the moist powder was prepared and applied with the aid of a small bone or wooden rod (5). Preparation of kohl: Kohl was obtained from burning aromatic resin, a species of frank- incense and shell of almond, which was made up of mainly galena, a mineral form of lead sulfide. The first kohl creation was a dark black shade used to protect the eyes from harmful sunrays and reduce eye infection and keeping the eyes healthier. The ingredient galena has disinfectant property (4). Composition of kohl: The exact composition of kohl is a matter of dispute among the scientific committee. During ancient Egyptian days, galena was called by the name stim. Later the word was identical to Greek stimmi and Latin stibium, which means antimony, so some of the authors say antimony was the major ingredient used instead of lead sulfide. A research was conducted to determine the composition of kohl. The researcher analyzed 30 eye preparations (kohl), which were obtained from Egypt. Through the study, the researcher concluded that galena was the chief constituent and not antimony. Some of the authors say zinc oxide was probably used due to its sunblock property (6). Eyeliner: Malachite is a green copper carbonate hydroxide mined from the Suez Isth- mus and the Sinai and is frequently used as an eye-liner. Egyptians claimed that mala- chite prevented the water-borne eye infections, which is common along the Nile River (7). Women used to paint the underline of eyes and lids with green color made from malachite, which is a copper carbonate ore (8). Galena is a natural mineral form of lead sulfide. The grounded galena was mixed with natural resin and water. Prepared galena paste was kept in shell, vessels, or wrapped in leaves and was applied as black eyeliner (9). Eye care in ancient India. Cosmetic use for protection and beautification dates backs to the Vedic and Puranic periods. In “Vedic Kala” the eye decorated with Anjana is said to be the best in every era (10). Anjana is a thick eyeliner/paste made up of herbs, which was also called collyrium. It is used to protect the eye and maintain eye health and vision. It is popularly called kajal in Hindi (11). In Rig-Veda, eye decorations with collyrium, beautiful garments, perfumed unguents, and flower garlands were mentioned [12). Eye care in ancient China. Women used the soot derived from burning willow branches to paint their eyebrows during the Warring States period (475–221 BCE). Before Qin Dynasty (221–206 BCE) it was popular to have long eyebrows. However, dur- ing the Han dynasty (206 BCE–CE 220) women used to shave their eyebrows and drew new ones. During the Tang dynasty (CE 618–907), there were dozens of eye- brow shapes. Arched and thin eyebrows resembling a willow leaf or a moon were trendy (13). HAIR CARE AND PLANTS USED FOR HAIR CARE Hair care in ancient Egypt. Henna (Lawsonia inermis) has been used as a growth agent and was used in an ancient Egyptian treatment to treat hair loss. The occurrence of contact dermatitis due to the use of henna was extremely rare (Garcia, et al., 1997) because henna leaf extract has moderate antiallergic and anti-inflammatory activity (Dweck, 1997b) (14). Henna was prepared by drying leaves of henna and ground into a powder, mixed