JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS of geraniol, citronellol and terpineol and from such linkage are evolved bases with definite characteristics, such as the Verts de fleurs, de Lilas, de Gardenia, d'Oranger, des f6rets and so on. ß Further shadings of considerable value in muguet, mignonette,, gar- denia and tuberose 'Compositions can be based upon some of the foregoing items by the addition, for instance, of di-hydro pgeudo-ionones which give the deeper and richer tones of ivy-leaves, while the sweet, dry and powdery note of vine-leaves can be introduced with methyl heptenone and hexylenic aldehyde finally, the dull and heavier nuances closely simulating chrysanthemum, dahlia and tomato foliage, which notes are so useful in the heavy undertones of the citrus-incense-rose fantasies, can find a ready counterpart in iso- amyl heptyl ether and neryl butyrate. It is also interesting to observe at this point the interpolation of the "nutty" cadence, not the spicy- cachou aspect, but rather that inflection of the coconut, hazelnut a•nd walnut tone, because the funda- mental odour, based upon •'-nonyl and duodecyl lactones, plus the unctuousness of heptaldehyde acetals, and the amyl and butyl- benzyl ethers, can according to inclination either remain nutty, or emerge as an odour characteristic of decorticated twigs and the hollow stems of water plants. For instance, the fragrance of iso-propyl phenylacetic, phenylpro- pyl, cyclamen and cuminic aldehydes, plus that of such alcohols as cedrenol, 190 santalol, coriandrol, and esters like hexyl benzoate, all closely simulate the fresh, damp, sappy, pithy and cortexal odour. This sapid, succulent odour tends towards-the verdure note, which is rather that of the freshness of vegetation than the aroma associated with particular leaves, and is per- haps particularly well exemplified by appropriate dilutions of heptyl caproate or iso-propyl acetophenone (methyl-cumyl ketone), as well as by. the more culinary odours of freshly sliced French beans, cucum- ber and melon rinds, which charac- terise such esters as hexyl caprylate and hexenyl formate. There is also another folial shade which is a composite. This is to be found in the sweet, &y and powdery note of rose leaves and dried rose petals, to wh. ich, in particular, the phenylethyl and phenylpropyl ace- tates, propionates, cinnamates and the acetals of the corresponding : aldehydes, are largely contributory...:: ODOURS OF MOSSES AND LICHENS The mousse de chine odour,? borders on those of the verdure!?: group and, although there are botanical sources of the lichens from:'• which the commercial extracts manufactured, yet the characteristidi•:'½• ' odour can be observed in the methyl? ethyl and particularly the iso-buty[' • esters of everninic acid, as also the p.-methyl, iso-propyl and ß . butvl qmnohnes. Furthermore, farnesyl and fenchyl?•l alcohols and their acetates

•:?111'ontribute a considerable de ee of •d•ii::•:tonal support, and this can be supple- '•(g,f•.mented by galbanum, myrrh, scam- •:•?i?mony, patchouli and vetivert, but !•i:iii!!i as the choice of commercially avail- •}•}•:able oak moss extracts, resins and •?}?absohtes a•ords such considerable •/•,•?•:latitude, the perfumer who has in ?:?mind elegant creations of cr•p•, :•}{?•:•:Chypre, foug•re and similar fant•y is not particularly inter- in syffthehc imitations of this ::.•i½:(:::.:vi•ually indispensable item. THE ODOURS OF FERNS 9.•" • ::•}::?• As is readily perceived, the fern : •?:::.•ødour links the verdure-lichen note ::j •th the earthy tones, and although •?::the odour of the rhizome of the :•:•.?'MMe fern (Dryopteris filix-mas) is not very pleasant, somewhat resem- • •bling thi oily dankness of octyl •:}' butyrate, yet the foliage odours of many other species of ferns is particu- larly attractive to the perfumer. Many examples of this are to be found in the Adiantum•the scented maiden-hair ferns, and particularly with the D. aemula•the hay-scented Buckler fern, and this coumarinic note is also well evidenced in the •oup comprising the Hound's or Deer-tongue family (Liatris odoraris- sired), as is seen by some of the common names of these plants' wild vanilla and sweet vernal. From the pe•umery angle, how- ever, the scented-fern or foug•re odour is fundamentally that of oak- moss Mlied with patcho•i, as t•s combination seems to a•ow a •adual unfoldment of a peculiarly attractive PERFUMES - sweet, velvety cassia-clove under- tone, which when slightly augmented by a woodruff-vanilla shading and extended by lavender, constitutes a foundation upon which many inter- esting variations can be made. For instance, the replacement of the coumarin by some of the methyl- or i hydro-coumarins, or simulations of Melilot, based upon di-methyl hydro- quinone, Melilotal (p-methyl aceto- phenone) and ani.syl esters, ethers and ketones, provides some very pleasing and intriguing notes. Furthermore, upon more deliber- ate consideration, it is noted that there are four adjuvants which are integral to the make-up of "fern- frond" perfumeg, namely, a slightly herbaceous thyme note which may be obtained by the judicious addition of carvacryl acetate or benzoate' also the incidence of the odour of freshly bruised fern stems, which will be found in cuminic acetaldehyde there.is also a touch of the pungency associated with ethylamyl, methyl- hexyl and similar "lavender" ketones' and, f•nally, bearing in mind the relationship of the primeval giant ferns with the coniferae--in iso-bornyl propionate will be found the requisite pine inflection to com- plete the foug•re gamut. THE ]EARTHY ODouR This-is a somewhat recondite section and may perhaps be intro- duced by calling attention to a very apt excerpt from W. H. Hudson's "Hampshire Days." Writing in 1902, he says, "It here comes into 191