JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS tions also include Pix Z iquida, the genuine Dalbrand or peasant-dis- tilled Stockholm tar, prepared from the roots of the Pinus sylvestris, then a very satisfactory product results, especially if backed with olibanum. In so far as synthetics are con- cerned, p-tertiary butyl phenol has a decided cuir aroma, although the chlorocresol type of back note is difficult to suppress, but in conjunc- tion with amyl and anisyl formates, some of the p.-cresyl ethers and esters, economical versions of the'leather motif can be evolved suitable for soap and industrial deodorant per- fumes. It is noted, however, that the bruy•re-birch tar bases will blend particularly well with cinnamyl and geranyl acetates and, with a fair proportion of iso-butyl phenylace- rate, exceptionally sweet and per- sistent top notes can be achieved. THE ANIMAL NOTES It is noteworthy that, during the past few years, in the. literature published in English, some twenty or so contributions have appeared upon such topics as "animals in perfumery" and odoriferous sub- stances of animal origin--musk, civet, castoreum and ambergris. From 1926, when Professor Ruzicka elucidated the constitution of civetone and surprised the scienti- fic world with compounds containing very large carbon rings, so much progress has been made that there is no point in endeavouring to make a pr•cis here, in view of the abundance 196 of recent contributions on this subject. Reference should be made to the existing literature for details of new "nitro" musks, "muskat" from the American musk-rat, the odorous components of ambergris, and also information on the substi- tuted indoles. THE RESINOUS 0DOUR The resinous note partakes some- what of an osmical quality which is the direct antithesis of the bland unctuousness of the woody oils. It may perhaps be described as possess- ing a degree of harshness such as is observed with br6mstyrole, deca- hydro-l•-naphthyl acetate and the hexyl aidehyde acetals, but in odour alignment it would seem to correlate with a blend of. methyl heptenone, terebene and olibanum, and this odour constitutes a prominent back- note in such oils as eucalyptus, rue, sage, pennyroyal, spearmint, sassa- :: :i! fras, cinnamon-leaf and clove-stem. :i::i•i• The basic note is elevated in the juniper and cypress oils and is seen to full advantage in the depth and body of the Pinus sibirica. fir and other oils from the Austrian'?•?• Tyrol. As an adjuvant in perfumerv'?ii i s use •s somewhat hmited to sup,.:?.?• porting components in the smoky, eather and arereal sechons::i•l A brief investigation into Spices and Condiments shows that tM. former may be regarded • aromati • used for flavouring and, of thes'•'• ,:• ... ...½ -:.:,

•i!11fo:Ur are of common everyday usage, •mamely, clove, cinnamon, ginger and but they are of somewhat importance in perfumery. dividing line, however, between and condiments is indefinite generally speaking, mustard, white and black pepper and ,rse radish, are referred to as condiments. One outstanding property shared both groups is concomitant ½i:i:?:With the medical quality of being :•f•?carminative, that is, capable of pro- ?•i?'ducing an internal sense of pain- i?! relieving warmth, and also as rube- :'/? i•:ifacients, in the form of alleviating •:•!iembrocations and liniments. !}•5i::. It is observed in the folial group ?.that the ar})matic counterpart, in ?contrast to the nutty or cortexal ... •!:!inflection, is found here, particularly .:• •n the almond, cachou and nutmeg i.? and in oils expressed or distilled from ?: barks, berries, seeds, pods and roots, and it is further noted that th• 7:1 spices will • align in complementary 'or supporting pairs, namely, cinna- : mon-pimento ß clove-caraway- al- ß ::mond-vanilla ginger-pepper and ::'. cachou-nutmeg. Although the warm, spicy note is a fundamental of eastern or oriental :: perfumes and contributes largely to the background of such non-floral perfume-types as ambre, chypre, foug&re, erica and origan, yet pleas- ing combinations are also observed with the woody oils and light ..: touches from these groupings can be used very effectively with the more delicate blossom compositions, the function of cinnamon in hyacinth NON-FLORAL PERFUMES and patchouli in white rose bases being well-known examples. In so far as support from the synthetics is concerned, cinnamic and benzoic esters are either too fruity or tend towards the balsamic note, so that for practical purposes the clove epitomises the typical spice odour through the eugenols and their esters and ethers, although it is known that •esorcinol and thy- m•l ethers and esters, substituted cinnamic and benzyl aldehydes, and various piperonal derivatives, con- tribute largely to the make-up of the above-mentioned five-fold grouping, but for details of recent work upon the organic chemicals having a cinna- mic odour, the paper by Dr. Carl Bordenca should be consulted.* THE BALSAMIC FRAGRANCE It is very probable that the proto- type of the pure balsamic note is to be found in Balsam of Peru, and it would seem that it is the cinnamic osmophore which is largely respons- ible for this sweet, fragrant note. Although not definitely spicy, the balsam partakes somewhat of this 'character, which is combined with an herbaceous shading similar to that of clary sage. Balsam of Peru is remarkable for the complexity of esters, aldehydes and lactones which contribute to its make-up and, furthermore, an outstanding characteristic of the balsam and the oil distilled from it, is the mild, but persistent and peculi- arly sweet, mellow, velvety tone which it is able to confer upon com- 197